zagscrawler

After thinking about what I wrote about using the unprotected switch for the ACC power I might be mistaken about how you could use buss bars to get voltage to all the separate wires. I will have to grab an old switch and see if I can test a few things. I'm worried about backfeeding voltage from the ACC switch over to the buss bar with all the other main functions, like ignition fuel system..?? Even without the buss bars you could backfeed voltage to unintended circuits without some fancy wiring.

I would like to think it was just the oil pump but isn't it driven off of the cam? The fast spinning makes me think maybe broken timing chain or missing bolts in timing gears.... good to know about the clearance though I have always wondered.

I personally would use the protected switch for the regular ON position circuit, the unprotected switch for the ACC position circuit (incase you want the radio and other small features without the comp and fuel system hot), and of coarse the start button for engaging the solenoid at the starter. To turn it off you simple smack the protected cover down and it kills everything like the stock set-up would. Also like said above if you cut into the wires at the steering column you shouldn't need to use the relay that came with the kit. I don't know the wire colors at the stock ignition switch so maybe someone else can chime in with them. There are a lot of wires there and they will likely not fit safely onto a couple of spades for the new switch. You could probably use some Bus bars from any local electronic stores (radio shack) to keep it all clean. Automan said it best I'm afraid. Its not a real easy job like a column swap could be, plus you get the security of the key again. good luck with what ever you do. :cheers:

oh man that's not good. Are these motors noninterference? ive never asked.

I don't mean to keep at it but you can have all the fuel pressure in the world but without injector pulses it won't fire either. If I remember right the same era ford efi wouldn't spark or pulse injectors if the distributer pickup or crank sensors were goofing up. Its been a while since I had to mess with them so I could be wrong. If you know someone with an injecter test light you could see if they are getting voltage properly. Good luck dude.

paradise I feel for ya man. I should probably tell you I am no longer in the same boat as you. I went ahead and picked up the Rail II switch and am now running my trans in manumatic . soo I have a 92 HO aw4 comp and unmolested harness, accept for the trans plug of coarse, if you need anything out of it or the whole thing. Just let me know. I admire your drive to make this happen. I gave in and took the easy way out. keep at it man and let me know if you need anything. p.s. I really love that shifter, so do all my buddies, my wife will be on board soon also..... I hope lol take care bud. Nate

sound like the throwout bearing to me. Try pushing in the clutch and holding for at least 10 seconds. if the sound is still there and consistent rev the motor up to see if the sound is relative to the rpm. If when the motor returns to idle with clutch pedal still pushed in it makes the same noise i would really think throwout bearing... If the noise goes away or gets a lot less it could, I mean could, be the clutch disc rubbing rivets or springs against the other surfaces, only reason i even might think cluch disc is also to do with you stating being able to start it in second gear... shouldn't really do that lol. Not with out considerable luggin anyway. LOL jus thought of something else that can help tell. get to a comfortable driving speed and just slightly begin to push the pedal in until the noise starts while under power. If the noise starts before the clutch slips it most likely the throwout bearing, if the noise starts close to the same time the clutch slips it could be clutch disc. gl snake

ouch.. does it still sound like it has even compression when cranking it over or does it have an easy spot or fast turnover rate (faster then when it was before it died) when holding the key in start for a small period? I'm assuming you mean my dizzy doesn't turn you pulled the cap and the rotor doesn't spin while cranking?

The 5000 pound mark seems very realistic at this point but I guess I was pondering to much on the 400 hp and boosted upgrade which puts the towing range (power wise) a bit more than that i would imagine. I guess you would just have power to spare on the uphills with that kind of power. The way the thread started threw me off i guess considering the truck can tow what you want right now..

when you say no fire do you mean you checked for spark and there was none or it doesn't fire the engine up?

Can you hold the distributer and feel it when crankin it? or just when its running?

ahh that never crossed my mind. I just assumed it was the 4x4 but now that I think... :hmm: .... :idea: the 2wd auto sits in the same place as the 4wd. Sorry bout those useless tips lol

No I was not just referring to a diesel only. there are plenty of gas tow trucks out there as well and they share the same platform as the diesel versions but with like you said a bit more up front for the heavy engine. Its the platform that worries me is all. I am not an expert on how strong the stock chassis is really but when I converted mine to 4wd I stuck some 35's on it and of coarse had major deathwobble troubles. I read and talked to many different folks on what causes and cures it of coarse and they all had different reasons and fixes. Most of the fixes were bandades in my opinion so I looked at how the road forces were being applied to the chassis and came to realize that all the important pickup points were on the driver side only. Fine I'm sure if you are trying to control things in stock form but needed to be strengthened for the large rubber it was trying to keep in check. All I did was build two frame connecters up front and boom no more dw's, The driver side of my chassis was flexing and I would have never guessed it. I didn't change anything else, hell my stearing stabilizer shock is the original and completely useless. This is why I think the chassis was just not built to handle full size duties from the get go. I think it can be made into a much more sturdy platform with a little care. I wish you the best of luck and I will fallow the build for sure. The turbo motor is just to bad @$$ to not check out. I know I am coming of as a downer so ill keep my negatives to my self from now on and want to wish you the best of luck with your truck.

this is good news. thanks again.

lol I sure hope I get to meet some of you in person some day. what a b*@$£ it is to tell when yall are kidding when in writing ;)

The stopping power of the four pistons is going to be nice and all but I would think of the rest of the stress placed on all the other components in the front end. I can't help but think of the four link and not sure I ever seen such load applied with that kind of front end. all the tow rigs ive seen (real tow rigs) are leaf sprung or independent, I'm thinking its for a reason I can only imagine the stress put on the trackbar and the links stopping a load of that size time and time again. I get what your trying to do, but if your serious about making a manche a serious tow rig ditch all the ideas of large improvements in small areas and look at it from a larger safer scale. If I were to do it and I am purely speculating here with an unlimited budget of coarse. First full size axles and all the goodies that come with it, leaf spring front end, major frame stiffening add ons, air bags in rear, hydro brakes, high sprung (heavy) suspension all around for sure, tightened up trans with major aftermarket coolers and built to the hilt long block(w/major rod journal oiling mods) boosted just enough to tow my shyte...putting a cooling system in that is still up in the air if you don't want to mount something extra in the bed with aux fans. It sounds like you know the ins and outs of performance parts but they don't have a kit to make the mj into a pulling power house. think of it like this Its been done before many many times and who knows maybe they started out with something even less substantial than a compact truck but the end result is sitting next to you at the stoplight. A fullsize truck overbuilt not for the soccer mom but intended for towing a fellow auto behind it with no foreseen issues. Just try to think of everything you need to make it happen not what you can get away with is all. Edge of your seat is for racers its why they get to have all the fun. towing in a real life situation is not a sport, its a responsibility to everyone around you. When I tow and I tow a lot I never worry about my rig, I worry about everything else around me and what to do if they make me nervous.. I mean no offence but build the baddest tow manche we have seen yet that would be @#$%in sweet.

My speedo hasn't worked for some time now and I know there is no hope now. I swapped in a 92 aw4 (from 88 ba10) with the electro speed sensor. Anyone have any experience with wiring the sensor directly to an after market speedo. preferably AUTOGAUGE (AUTOMETER) brand gauges? Maybe they make a module or something I can install? thanks in advance

lol come on horn quit padding those post #'s :yes: just kidding buddy :cheers:

Eagle nailed it. I my self had a Peugeot trans in my my. Mine went over 300k and to be honest its still going. I pulled it because I wanted a aw4 for the 4x4 swap. I to had the 2nd gear prob when it was cold out but after a few shifts its good to go. This is the very first time ive come to defend that poor old trans and it deserves it. I drove that thing when my family first got it with 18k on it like I stole it. I was seriously chirping 3rd as often as I could get someone to come on a ride along. lol it even has a camper shell on it then. after I got it a few years ago it had around 280k and I still hit the damn gears as hard as I could at least once every time I drove it. I expected it to break but it never did. give that French turd its dues, I do. mater of fact if you need a back up or parts ( not that they are better then what you have) ive got a spare just chillin here lol.

I agree with Oyaji the disc can run much higher pressures at sustained intervals because of the design of the disc, not even the master or caliper. the disc in my opinion is the important part. The hydraulics has been available a long time before the disc part was invented. Think of the size of the caliper piston.. Its huge and can be because of the disc needing so little clearance to work proper. You can translate much more squeezing power with much lest foot travel if you have the added bionic foot called a booster. The booster just makes your foot weigh 100% more is all. Small masters + huge pistons + tight tolerences + pedal force multiplication = massive stoping force. There are ways to make specific situaltions seem better than others while using older tech but it usually means that the newer tech wasn't used to its potential. Disc is the best hands down if you have the other parts to make it work like designed is all. On a side note as long as you load the trailer and set the tongue height to create the least amount of tow rig rocking when brakes are applied I bet youll be ok with that load.. Also I just did the 99 wj master and booster swap in my mj with 35's on it and holly crap.. I can lock up all four if I want. My good friend has a xj with 35's also and I let him drive mine to show him and he $#!& his pants when he stabed the pedal. I know I am affectively overworking the front and rear brakes but till I see how things wear in the real world I couldn't be happier.

Well to be honest I'm not sure what to call my title now. I try to run a resto shop for a private collector, I do everything accept paint and body also run a bunch of manual machines when needed to fab up special parts, really I do anything I am asked cause that man pays me to do what he says even if it means I have to learn how to do what he wants lol. So anyway the jury is still out on what I want to do considering the y link set up or straight crossover. This is just an opinion I have formed from what ive read and done first hand. The y style will work best if your track bar is in the stock positions both axle and body bracket as long as the where the y-link mounts is the same distance from the pass side spindle tie rod pickup point as stock. basically they should of copied the lengths and pivot points from the factory steering in order to keep the bump steer down. lol to be honest I didn't even look at the links to see if you were looking into a kit that mounts on the topside of the spindle arm or the bottom (stock). The only thing bad about the y-style links is that if the steering box side of the chassis flexes away from the ground (axle) lots more than stock it will toe in the more upward it travels..It will basically pull the driverside link upward while the pass side sits on the ground. the other thing ive thought is stock y-link set ups run special tie rod ends that won't allow the shaft to twist fore and aft where the similar y-link with hiem joints will flop any way they can creating a sort of slop in the steering related to the input.. basically when you turn your steering wheel it will push the shaft connected to the pitman arm and that shaft will push where the y-link brackets meet the tie rod shaft and rotate it until it binds the hiems then will begin to push the spindle arm. from what I gather if you had a hiem set up y-link there would be almost a dead spot when going from left to right.. again from what I gather. The cross over steering set up has no toe change at all, unless you bent the tie rod bar, no matter where the steering is in the travel. The bad thing about that set up is it makes for a long arm that goes from the pitman arm clear over to the spindle arm which messes with the bumpsteer if your track bar isn't equil to the length and on the same plain as the first steering shaft. on trail only rigs this isn't a problem because they never go fast enouph to be disturbed by sudden direction change that happens when flexing uneven bars. well it might be noticed but its not like they change lanes at 60 mph because of a bump or roling hill. its hard to keep all this straight in my head so I'm sure I left some stuff out or just plain am wrong about. Oh and on the lift and 17"s the only thing I can offer is if you plan on keeping all the rest stock up front try and find a way to drop the pitman arm and the body side of the track bar as close to it was at factory hight. to be honest the factory doesn't even have perfect lines when it comes to the track bar and pitman arm to pass side spindle link but they have it set to be unnoticeable, most will blame that much on road conditions and sidewinds. damn that's a long post. I just don't know how to put things simpler gl and hope that helps a tiny bit lol

Ha ha, I am not even capable of harming such cool people earl. If I had to be completely honest every time I get on-line and get caught up on some of these threads its late as hell and I have just finished working on the jeep and a bunch of beers, I have noticed that I don't always put things in the kindest of ways. Also on the subject of crossover steering, I myself am about ready to pull the trigger on building a set for my mj. I have a bit more waiting to do considering that the local steel shop hasn't had any drops long enough for the tierod bar yet. Back to the subject though, I'm sure you would be fine running such things on the street really, and I understand that to some people it is super important to do things by the book. I used to be the type that would just rattle on the lug nuts with an impact and I did for sooo many years on my own vehicles as well as customers until one day while in a rush I did not tighten them at all (finger tight was all). I took the car (a replica cobra spec racer) for a test drive with a buddy and sure as $#!& the damned thing fell off on the way back to the shop. It was the pass rear thank god and the body held the tire in until I could get it stopped. It did very little damage and we sponsored the car so I just had to fix a few things on my own time. Got super lucky.... What I'm getting at is a super round about way is now I torque every set of wheels no matter what..not because my normal technique failed (ya cause I didn't do that either lol) but because its by the book and you don't forget by the book. sorry bout the freakin story but I find my self now torn with a lot of what I do because my sense tells me that something is ok but the fine print is saying its not. but fine print is for lawyers right :rotf: Anyway time tells all and gl earl P.S. My name is Nathan by the way. see not so dangerous.

Not uncommon I'm sure, but boosted tow rig.. that's impressive. Besides like you said monkey they are to light and don't have the stance for all around towing.. I'm sure some will disagree but ive towed with all types of rigs and my MJ just doesn't strike me as a candidate. To be honest.. most anything can be done. With the "to do list" for the truck I don't think its a great idea is all..

to be honest man I would love to see a high hp turbo manche but I can't see how it will make a good tow vehicle. like Oyaji started to say the drivetrain would be so overworked I can't see how you would be able to make it practical. I'm sure the Aw4 could handle the hp and torque but how to deal with all the added heat from the turbo and the pure cast iron motor would be way more then that puny little radiator ever dreamed of handling in a sustained situation. This package is capable of some serious abuse but its at bursts I'm sure, but planning a gas engine turbo tow rig will cost you some serious money, not just a few week links in the rotating assembly. IMO of coarse. To put it into perspective... lots of us have overheating issues when simple mods like tire size and 4wd converts (improper gearing for instance), this drive train never quits when used within reason but kramming boost into these things, especially when towing sounds like dangerous ground. Get bad @$$ LBZ or 7.3 ford if you want to have a specific tow vehicle. (Ive got both and I suggest the LBZ lmao :D ) ohh crap did I say that....

Now that I reread what I wrote I guess I favor the steel because I have more experience with it, not knowing what the 7075 is capable of handling in a real time situation. I just can't help but think of the old saying "give and take", meaning for the lack of weight (again assuming density) and it still holds the memory, it must lack something...maybe the only thing it is lacking is the amount of pressure it takes to start the deflection in the first place and the majority of the other factors are similar to the steel..? Also to the OP I did not realize you were looking to add "upgrades" to a 2wd, I was thinking about the steering landing on rocks and such and that's what I was talking about. The allum will probably give you no noticeable difference when in regards to steering quickness or handling on the street better because of the composition of the bar. I know this an extreme observation but the alums natural rubberband like qualities might let vibrations carry further through it. I mean no harm with my mentions at all and to be honest I like to hear other long winded ideas on things. :idea: