zagscrawler

This may have nothing to do with what you are experiancing but when i first got my truck it used to shutter real bad when i got it up to temp. My father owned it and i know he drove it like it was going to break on him at every corner. So in a fit and so sick of the shuddering i got it to about 40 mph, so as not to damage to many things from the shock :roll: , i slipped the clutch on purpose a few times real good...like REAL GOOD until i smelled the burning brake smell and for some strange reason i have not had the shuttering issue ever since. Its been about 6 months or so with the most pleasant clutch experiances one could ask for on every drive. NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY BROKEN PARTS AFTER READING THIS :cheers:

Not 100% sure of this but i don't think not having the heater control valve will make your vent air any hotter. The way i see it is there are seperate departments in the heater,evap,blower motor assembly right? I mean if when you change the coolness setting at the dash it doesn't limit the amount of hot water let through the valve it just opens it when any heat is disired right? Seems like the heater control valve is just a vacumme controled water switch or sorts, on or off. So if you have your comfort switch set to cool then i imagine the trap doors in the whole assembly will just pull vented air from somewhere that is not the heater core...thus cool or as cool as outside air blowing. I will have to look at my controls again to make sure i stated this correctly but i also have put a 96 radiator and eliminated the control valve in my 88. so far it has been the best upgrade i have done.

Ive accually seen it done before but it was many years ago and the owner of the wheels did it with a good set of tires though, the bead was still in good shape. He used rubber cement on the threads of the screws and very coarse threaded screws. I thought he was crazy back then and i still don't recomend it now, but to be completely honest i don't remember him ever saying they failed..... :doh: If you find you want to try it anyway i would recomend pre-drilling the holes in the wheel first and make the holes just large enouph for the screw to pass through it and then install the tire and use some sort of self tappin screw with sealant and do your best to not strip out the rubber. gl

Thanks guys for the help. I didn't realize they were leaves....what a shame, a local guy was selling a complete d 30 4.88geared hp with a lockright for 200 bucks :( The search continues

did the YJ ever come with a dana 30 hp. I'm sorry for asking such a simple question that has probably been asked a ton before but my searches came up with crap the three times i tried. Thanks

The syncro's are infact inside the trans and you have to split the case to replace them. It is not that simple of a job and would not recomend getting inside your trans with out experianced help. As for the fluid it is very important to be running the proper fluid (factory recomended or something recomended by some of the more experianced wrenches on this forum). The wrong type or low level of fluid can and will affect the way the syncros are working and cause serious damage to the rest of the internals as well. Just a note, the syncros don't acctually consist of very many moving parts and i find it hard to believe that they will just SOMETIMES ACT UP on you, normally with syncro problems they start to wear out and have a consistant issue. I am new to the comanche world and have yet to fill or swap fluids in my trans so i can't recomend the proper fluid, sorry about that. Good luck and keep me posted on what you find, you have got me all curious now lol. :wrench:

the slack you are talking about could be the extra play between your plunger shaft and where the acctual plunger (piston) that is in the slave cyl. Not all slaves are made exactly the same and some lock the plunger futher into the bore than say your old one. If you can get the boot off without damaging it i would pull it and move the plunger shaft in and out and see if it is just the gap between the two. If everything is working proper i wouldn't worry to much about it but if the slack bothers you enouph you could pull your old shaft out and have an experienced welder extend it a bit or try your luck at locating an adjustable legth shaft. Good luck

go with mat lol you want the truck to stand out not the strippes :D

sounds like you might be pulling air in somewhere....check all your conections to make sure they are all tight. I'm assuming because you haven't said you are leakin fluid that you are NOT leaking fluid. If that is the case then you are in need of a serious bleeding... If that does not stop the bubbles then i would think you have a faulty master and it is pulling in air as you let off the pedal. Also a side not when you install your brake lines don't just tighten them till they stop....tighten them till they stop then back it off and retighten it again and note if it went further this time. It should of by the way

Thanks for the feedback guys. Ill be checking out your build Garvin soon. :cheers:

A friend of mine has loaned me a First gen 3 link long arm set up for me to copy and I'm having second thoughts. I kinda wanted to stick with four link or y link set ups and his idea was to just add the pirches for the pass side y-link when i build the new set. I'm not sure if this will cause binding issues because i will be placing all the tabs in the spots designed for a three link....any comments? Also i don't have the chassis brackes to copy as they left with a scraped out jeep and the axle bracket is still welded onto his axle at the moment and makes it hard to get proper measurement easily. I don't mind working to save some pennies but i am going to be comparing the over all cost and time to the clayton y link upgrade kit in the long run. Anyone tried adding a fourth link to a 3 link design? Thanks for any advise, also i am very comfortable fabricating and have a full (manual) machine shop at my disposile. Thanks again Zag :wrench:

Anyone know of the place where someone might find the best deal on the Clayton long arm upgrade kit, not the whole lift kit just the long arm upgrade. I'm looking into online deals right now and will compare prices with shipping to the prices of my local suppliers. Also i live in the phoenix area of Arizona. Thanks all

that is strange..... Something else to consider is maybe the pilot bearing in the flywheel is acting up and sometimes gets bound up to you input shaft on the trans. Or you clutch disc doesn't slide around on the input shaft splines freely :dunno:

Eagle makes a very stong point but before you replace that line i would grab it and have a friend depress the clutch a few times and see if you feel it acctually swells. I have not had my hand into a MJ master yet but some of the others ive seen apart move more fluid then i think the inner liner of the factory clutch line can swell with out bursting or showing signs of serious fatigue. I could be wrong but if you feel it swell then you know what your up against and if it doesn't then you need to see where the fluid is acctually going if your master is still in working order. FYI most soft line high preasure lines twitch and contort a bit when preasure is applied but they should never acctually swell. I worked with comercial hydraulics for many years before i became a private mechanic and have much, IMO LOL, incite to high preasure systems. Good luck friend and let us hear how things go. :wrench: Also if i had to be honest i would not think that the soft line would even twitch if the slave is not bound up and working proper.

Well my buddy said I can have the grand chero diff for free because of a bent axle tube but I'm sure I can salvage the carrier. Ill take a real close look into if it atall is possible to swap something in. It will be a little while before I can grab it but ill post what I find. :wrench:

Thanks guys for all the help. :cheers: I have a 8.25 chrystler with 4.10s in it now but I'm having a real hard time finding a 4.10 dana 30 to match the front. Ive been thinking of regearing the front and rear to 4.56s and i swear ive seen kits on ebay for around $350 for both front and rear gears and set-up parts. Any one have any idea if there is a posi unit that will fit into a 88 dana 30 HP that came in jeeps from the factory that will accept the 456 gears? Also my buddy says he has a dana 30 out of a grand cherokee that has some sort of posi in it and he claims it is some sort of hydraulic posi....any ideas what he is talking about? and or if it can drop into the hp dana?

I'm going to be running 35 inch tires an ax15 and 4.0L. It is my daily driver as well so i don't want it to be screaming down the freeway. Any suggestions on the gear ratio? thanks all

I am a huge fan of the 4.0l myself. Ive got over 250000 miles on the original motor and even timing chain i believe. We have had the truck in the family since 16000 miles and it still runs strong. I tip my hat to this motor. :cheers:

I'm not 100% sure on this but i keep thinking i heard of some people using deisel oil in some of there older applications because of the zinc and sulfer contents. I know in a lot of the super old cars i maintain we have been using Joe Gibs racing oil because of the high zinc content, its not legal for street use but i don't see any dipstick police running around. Just a thought good luck :wrench:

Thanks a bunch for all the info. I really dig the way that truck looks in that pic :thumbsup: How much lift is that ? Again thanks guys for all the help and i think i know what to do now. :banana:

I see what you mean as far as 10 wide. As far as backspacing i heard today that the measurement starts with the width of the wheel and was divided. He even went to say you measure from the outside width ( 9" on a 8" wheel) of a wheel to start the backspacing measure? He might of been crazy but i don't know for sure :dunno:

How does the window role up?

I don't mean to bug but how come i shouldn't run 8 inch wide wheels? Cause of the 15 inch dia. on the wheels? If i can run a 8 inch wide wheel what should the back spacing look like? I got schooled on how to measure backspacing from one of my tire buds and i think i can find a similar backspacing on a 8 inch wheel. Any ideas? Thanks Zag

i have yet to explore this in a comanche but i would say its as simple as a flasher. The flasher usually kills the power to the lights as they heat up and sometimes redirects the power depending on the flasher and truck. It gets hot and kills power, when it cools it completes the conection and lights up again. If it is stuck on it will light up solid. Not sure if this applies to the jeeps but old school flashers work like this. Do you hear any clicking when you apply the signals? Is your indicator light solid as well? The clicking is the relay snaping forward and back. If you do hear the clicking and it is still solid then they probably have some sort of brake switch interupt which gets a little bit more tricky. Hope this helps

I would stick magnet down there quick before you fire it up and see what u pick up. most of the shavings should of gone straight down :dunno: . good luck