Geonovast

About $512. Wrong direction there.... $489 US would be $500 CA at yesterday's exchange rate. I'd probably have to scrape up $500 to get that truck also. Nope. http://www.xe.com/ucc/convert/?Amount=5 ... CAD&To=USD

Converters should stay with the trans they've been run with.

Are you hitting on alternating sides of the pan? I've had'm stuck, but after switching side to side 3 or 4 times they've always come off.

Again, are you SURE you got all the bolts? There are 28 total, 24 with a 7/16 in head and 4 with a 1/2 in head.

This would probably be funnier if I knew what word was being replaced.

Are you SURE you have all the bolts out? There's nothing else holding it on.

I think someone's been playing with the naughty word filter.

About $512.

2nd on the Ballast Resistor. Jump the two wires going to it, and fire it up. If it stays running, you've found your problem.

That's gotta hurt quite a bit.

99 was the last year any Jeep saw an HP D30. $300 is a bit steep, even for a 4.10 geared axle. It's not unlikely you could find an entire 2.5/5 speed/4wd XJ for $400-$500.

The one in the block should have a pigtail. The knock sensor does not, and uses the same (or extremely similar) connector as an injector.

If it's original, it should be a HP D30 4.10 geared with the bigger U-joints. Even if it has the small joints, A 4.10 HP D30 is always worth it for a decent price.

Close - The knock sensor is down there, next to the CTS for the ECU. The Renix Jeeps have three coolant sensors, one in the back of the head for the light/gauge, one in the bottom of the block by the knock sensor for the ECU, and one in the radiator for the fan. In 91, with the HO system, the one in the bottom of the block, and the one in the radiator went away, replaced by one in the thermostat housing. (knock sensor also went away with the HOs).

There's one joint up by the axle, and two in the double cardan joint at the T-case. I've never replaced the cardan joints, but it's my understanding it's usually a good idea to rebuild the ball pivot assembly at the same time.

Yeah we're fine, the worst of it was a good hour west of where we're at. Last I heard the death tole was up to about 90 over by Joplin and KC. :peek:

97-01 Windshield are the same as well, however the door glass is different. 97-01 have just one window in the door, as opposed to the 84-96 having two. 84-96 Front 4 door XJ doors are literally the same part as MJ doors. They will swap directly. 97-01 4 door front doors will go on with slight modification.

You drove 85 mile to pick up something you hadn't seen a picture of? :hmm:

If it's a 4.0, it's not an AX-5. The AX-5 was never behind the 4.0. If it's a 5 speed, and original, it's a Pukey BA 10/5. Nope. Regearing is neither easy nor cheap. If you can't use the crappy 3.07 gears in it, it's probably not worth it. It will be cheaper and most likely easier to find yourself a 4.10 geared D30. If it's an automatic, it will be an AW-4 and have 3.55 gears.

AFAIK, the only complete bolt on set of rear discs for an 8.25 is off of a Liberty 8.25, and I've not been able to verify that no modification is required.

Not all that common.

I'm pretty sure the pre 90 D35 (non-C clip/10inch) backing plates will not fit on an 8.25. The 90+ D35 (C clip/9inch) backing plates are identical to the 8.25 backing plates, except the center hole on the D35 ones are a bit smaller, so would need to be reamed out.

11:59 - pull battery cable. 12:00 - reattach battery cable.

Do a fuel pressure check.

It also came with the towing package, and I'm sure you could request it from the dealer if you just wanted one.