Cheech

I was able to get mine off by using a 1/4" drive deep socket (can't remember the size) with an extension on a 1/4 drive screwdriver. It will be at a bit of an angle, but you can get it onto the nut enough to turn it and not round it off.

Permatex "Right Stuff" on mine instead of the cork or rubber gasket. No leaks.

i will do this in the daylight first thing. ---do you (or anyone) know the location in relation to the AIT sensor? and does it look similar to AIT? If you are looking at the intake air temp sensor, which is located in the top of the intake manifold, look down on the drivers side of the intake manifold back towards the firewall. It might be hard to see, but it will be there. And yes, it does look very similar as it also uses a 2 wire plug.

Check the coolant temp sensor. It is located in the back part of the intake manifold. The seal could be leaking.

Okay cool! I would probably just find an entire vehicle and swap everything I need over. What model years am I confined to? And does it have to come from a 2.5?

Nope, I would actually prefer a manual anyways. Whats involved in swapping over other than the pedals and hydraulics and such? Any wiring?

So I'm getting kinda tired of the three speed auto in my MJ. Without the extra gear it revs like crazy on the highway. Also the previous owner removed the kickdown or throttle valve linkage to the trans so it up shifts far too early and really bogs down. It also will not downshift going up hills either. What are my options if I were to swap out this three speed or should I try to find a replacement linkage?

The front axle disconnects fine during warm weather, but when its cold outside the axle will not disconnect when you go back into 2wd. Accordingly, the indicator light stays on as well. Is this a vacuum issue, or is something just sticky?

Yes, I would recommend using the torque values for the composite gasket. I started a topic about the torque values when I replaced the gaskets in my 86. Basically, we came to the conclusion that the different values listed in the Haynes for the different years was based upon the gasket type used and not a difference in the block itself. I torqued mine to the higher amount, can't really remember the exact number, but it was over 100 and have had no problems. If you think about it, it makes sense that you want the higher amount because you need to crush that composite gasket to make it seal. With the steel gasket, it is the sealant that does the sealing. I would recommend just using the composite style, I doubt the other style is still made. My gasket set from Carquest (victor reize gaskets) came with the composite.

Just remember: There are two different torque values depending on which gasket type is used. There is a value for using the stamped steel gasket and one for using the composite type. If using the composite type the value is up around 100.

Once it gets cold out, the ignition lock cylinder on my MJ get hard to turn, almost like its gummed up. But this only happens once the temperature approaches freezing, in the warmer weather its fine. What could be sticking?

It can be turned out, but because it is not working properly it will then idle far too high once it is warm.

Hey Pete, here are the pics of the actuator on my 86 2.5. The plunger moves in and out (or it should anyways, lol) to adjust idle speed.

Well, I managed to lose all the pictures I took when I pulled my engine out. I will take some in the morning for sure and post them here. :thumbsup:

Lol, Thats alright. :cheers: It actually does move the plate open a bit. I have a picture here somewhere, I'll try and find it.