Geonovast

Sounds like that's all being caused by the track bar. Leave the steering alone until you get a good track bar in there.

It's to prevent the axle from flying out the side when you turn. Independent suspension and most vehicles with front leaf springs do not use them.

Should. It would probably be in better condition than yours, but you should replace it with a new one down the road. You might also want to look into adjustables that can be set at the stock length... that way, you'd have a replaceable TRE, and you wouldn't have to replace the whole bar if it wears out. When you pull yours off, also carefully inspect the mounting flange on the axle itself. The hole may have begun to elongate.

i want that shotgun. :banana:

It's going to easier, and probably cheaper, to upgrade to the AX-15 instead of changing out parts on the pukey. If that's simply not an option though, I would just swap for another pukey. Pulling just the front shaft out of JY trans would seem silly, since the trans itself is probably fine.

Supercharger's going to be a bit more practical, there are bolt-on kits available, that IIRC add about 100 hp.

So orange RTV, with no gasket, or with the gaskets? Depending on what's wrong with his trans, I plan on fixing it. If it's what I think it is, it won't be too bad to repair. I already know about the clocking difference, and it won't be an issue. The problem with hitting the floor shouldn't be an issue to begin with since he already has an AX-15 crossmember. Plus, I was planning on swapping the rear cases anyway.

Certainly not. All the CAD is designed to do is keep the front driveshaft and carrier from spinning while driving in 2wd to save gas... which it doesn't do in any measurable amount. The CAD was done away with in the early 90s anyway. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415

x1000 I would just plug the lines, lock the CAD over, and forget you ever had the damn thing to begin with.

Sounds like someone needs to start making clear plastic gas tanks with marked lines on the side indicating how full it is.

I'm planning on making a trip up to WI at the beginning of June, and I would like to replace the transmission in my brother's 98 XJ. He's somehow toasted 1st gear when the motor seized a few years ago, and 1st is now completely gone. I already have a replacement AX-15 up there from a YJ. I've opened it up, and everything looks good, but I'm unsure how to reseal it properly before putting it back in. Right now it's just bolted back together with the original gaskets, doused in oil and wrapped in plastic. I could have sworn Rockauto had the gasket sets for it, but they seem to be missing now. Since there's no sign of any kind of RTV on the originals (midplate or bearing retainer), am I correct in assuming that none is needed when I locate a gasket set for it? Would re-using the originals be alright?

Yes there was, I believe the change from 21 to 23 was 1990.

AW-4 was used 87-92 in the MJ, and 87-01 in the XJ. They were used behind both the 2.5 and 4.0, although finding one behind a 2.5 is quite rare, since most later 2.5s came with the AX-5. AFAIK the only differences between the 2.5 and 4.0 AW-4s are the bellhousing(which is separable, unlike most automatics), the converter, and the TCU. I've heard there's internal differences, but haven't seen any proof of it either way.

The main ground for the fuel pump is behind the driver's side taillight. I would start there.

If I were in your position, I would find a 4wd AX-5/231. I think it's going to be much less of a headache. Your 904 not having the CPS window is kind of a dealbreaker. You'll probably need a T-case with whatever AX-5 you find, IIRC the 904 has a 23 spline output, so your 207 wouldn't be able to bolt up to the 21 spline AX-5.

AFAIK none of the 904s were electronic. I can't be sure though. The CPS itself is the same. However, the CPS is a magnetic sensor that detects cutouts in the ring gear on the flywheel. If a vehicle doesn't use a CPS, the flywheel won't have what the CPS needs. Another issue is whether or not the 904 you have even has the cutout for the sensor. It would be near the top of the bellhousing, on the driver's side.

Didn't they use the 904 in 86 behind the 2.5? Should be able to get a CPS style flex plate from that.

Does it run fine on level ground? I had issues like that when my fuel pump was on its way out.

Well, if the picture is correct, it's clearly adjustable. Also, having a non-adjustable TPS seems like a bad idea. Even if it's "matched" to OE specs, what if your truck no longer behaves like it did from the factory? (hint: it doesn't). You wouldn't be able to adjust it.

Looks adjustable to me.

Overall changing out a rear axle is a pretty simple thing to do. Changing the speedo gear is pretty easy as well, you just have to find one. Should be plenty of 3.55 speedo gears out there, I believe it was the most common axle ratio in the XJ/MJ.

Don't forget to change your speedo gear!

When I had mine done, it was $102 for a cut, balance, paint, and new u-joints put in. I've heard of prices as low as $60.

Get the 8.25, but you'll most likely need your rear driveshaft shortened. Very worth it, however, since the 8.25 you're getting is a 29 spline. edit: That's what I meant

For some reason Chrysler is keeping the last build date and VIN a huge secret. :fs1: