watchamakalit

I have heard that rubberized undercoating is not a good route, as it can trap moisture underneath and cause worse rust. Any thoughts on that? I'm by no means an expert. That's why I ask. Ps. I don't post a lot but also don't miss ANY content on CC.

Cut out ALL the rust, weld new metal in, paint, and drive.

I went through 2 "reman" a1cardone units before buying a new lares unit. Don't waste your time on reman units, verry difficult to find a good one.

The metal pins are out of the way enough. All that is needed is to remove the plastic clips that slide on them.

In case you do. Here is the best walk through I have found. Although I can't report on it's effectiveness I'm still working on mine. https://naxja.org/threads/how-to-test-repair-renix-era-cruise-control.1160060/

And they could be replaced when the road debris corrodes them.

Lol no just did a little NE Indiana living. On a side note I should have changed the upper control arm bushings on the diff. I tried to shortcut it and skip these but now can't get the caster in spec. Guess it's back to wrenching to change the upper bushings. I should have known better.

All new steering linkage went on this morning. Full V8 zj linkage. Most of it is moog with one piece (drag link) being doorman due to no moog available. New ac compressor installed also. My temporary work around ac line leaked so I am waiting on new fittings so I can try again.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY to you and our great country.

I have salvaged what I want off this truck other than the wheels, and my topper is currently stored on it. Other than those I am ready to part ways with the truck. The bed is decent for a northern truck but not perfect. If someone can use it for parts or a build get with me The truck was given to me, I'm not looking to make money just pass along the parts. I want to make clear NO TITLE.

This is the tool you need to remove the pulley. It is pressed on. HTH.

Problem I see with that is securing the TT inside the container will be a challenge. My opinion, drive it. Enjoy the journey and make some fun out of it.

Well the new temporary ac line is in. next in the list will be the compressor that now has a leak and won't let me pull vacuum. I guess my ac project waits on a rock auto delivery now.

My 4.2 in my cj rusted a hole in the oil pan. Figure that out. However excluding the blow-by on my MJ, 2 out of my 3 online 6s don't leak. Lol

Put a new valve cover gasket on it. trying to stop yet another 4.0 from puking oil everywhere has me questioning my sanity. I just finished all new control arms front and rear. The bushings were in terrible shape. I'm assuming original arms and bushings. It's off to the alignment shop on Saturday to see how far off I got it. Lol

My sentiments exactly. I have never run into a need for anything other than stock replacements. Me personally I would put stock ball joints back in it and take it to the alignment shop of choice. Good chance it all goes green.

Dag nabbit your gonna go and spoil my ac surprise. Lol Thank you for the input on flood pentrol I'll check it out.

After 2 failed a1 cardone units, I finally bit the bullet and put in a new lares steering gear. Haven't driven it yet except around the driveway, but it already seems 100x better. I'm excited to test it on the road. Today's project will be finding the new front end clunk. It sounds to me like a loose track bar. Edit: I almost forgot the exciting news. I think I found a solution to the unobtanium ac hose......

Almost sounds like your wanting a car like ride with truck like hauling capacity. I'd say suck it up buttercup, trucks ride rough. Not much else to add, other than the capacity of the GS springs is real. My MJ will handle anything most half ton trucks will.

Look what I found..... I tried to document location and orientation for future reference.

I'll look at mine again today while I pull out the leaky cardone unit to replace it with a lares.....

Salvage title > no title. At least the salvage title will keep it on the road and out of the cruaher\parts bin.

When i swapped mine to external, there was an assembly available that was a master,slave,and the line connecting them already pre-bled. If it's still available it made the job much easier. Pretty much eliminated any fluid mess.

When I was taught to drive manual I was taught 1st to reverse. became habit to throw it in first to stop trans rotation, then on to reverse. Stops the grinding and easily becomes thoughtless habit in short order.