watchamakalit

I thought the hot\cold door was cable actuated?

Understood. Just seemed backwards to me, but then again I prefer to wrench with gloves on.

Why not just wear the gloves for the dirty work and take them off and flip records?

This is getting tough to watch, I'm to impatient. Seriously excited for these.

If you remove the tow mirrors (I wouldn't) don't trash them. They are a bit of a rare option. The braces inside the door are a tow mirror option only thing. In fact the braces may be more rare than the mirrors.

I said more difficult, not impossible. I'm a "chippy" by trade metal is foreign to me.

Just remember with wood it's more difficult weld holes shut if you drill in the wrong spot.

Understood. Zooming may not even be enough on that screen.

Pete: You can see the boot for the clutch master in one of the pics. Most likely case that Pete is aluding to is that the clutch master cylinder is or has leaked fluid onto the fuse block and "melted" the plastic. Common issue with our trucks. Best fix is a new master cylinder and a fresh fuse block, typically sourced from a xj with auto (No master to leak) trans.

Nothing is good until the new is worn off. I recently (3-4yrs ago) purchased the newest truck I have ever owned. As much as I enjoy my 2013 2500hd ltz crew cab Chevy, I find myself choosing to drive the mj when the weather is appropriate for the mj to leave the shop. The 13 feels like cheap plastic to me. Not that the mj doesn't contain it's share of plastic but it just seems to be a better quality built vehicle. I have felt this way about automobiles for some time. The problem seems to be continually getting worse with the build quality sliding further towards making profits and farther from a quality product. That said, if for some reason I had to find a replacement for the 13 I would most definitely be shopping for probably a clean low mileage vehicle from the previous century. A clean low mile rust free unicorn would definitely make the list of possible purchases. It's just an automobile and I wouldn't be buying museum quality.

I know this is gonna sound stupid, but it's the voice of experience. Do you have any loose items rolling around in the bed?

Isn't hard to see where your going on the trail when the hood is open?

This thread may be single handedly responsible for at least 3 mj's getting rear sway bars. I'm patiently waiting in the wings and listening to see where this all goes.

I spent several years adding coolant to my truck, not knowing where it was going. No signs anywhere of a leak. Finally purchased myself a coolant system pressure tester. Found out the upper clamp on the lower hose would weep coolant ever so slightly, but only 6-8psi or greater system pressure. . New clamp and steady coolant levels now.

I need to see where this goes..... Only I have a d44

My valve cover has been cruiser modded with shortened baffles and all my ccv system is new and clear. I have owned a fair number of 258\4.0 family motors over the years and it seems to be common among them all. Catch can is probably the cleanest easiest solution.

Presumably from the blowby? I didn't think about air in when I opened my mouth. Il just shut up now.

Has anyone tried double orifice tubes? I'm thinking along the lines of removing the front breather tube that runs to the air box and replace it with a second orifice tube to match the rear and connect to intake vacuum? Worst you would do is burn off the excess oil, right? Seems with the crankcase pressure created by the blowby, a second vacuum orifice might mitigate the positive crankcase pressure and help keep the engine blood inside the engine instead of puking it all over the outside of itself????

Sounds to me like they just don't have the switch adjusted correctly. If slid too far one way or the other it will work but not quite right. I learned how critical proper adjustment is after replacing my switch. The slightest misadjustment meant I couldn't start the truck. Everything felt normal but wouldn't engage the "start" part of the switch.

My concer would be space. I'm not sure if there's V8 room with out major fab. The 4.3 seems like it should fit, and be plenty of power for a flat fender. Fuel injection would also be a big factor to me.

I for one would vote for "Uncle Pete". Sorry but the are only 2 beings I refer to as father.

Don't trust the dash gauges to be accurate. I thought my truck was running cold for years (guage said 165-170 hot). Thanks to a rem unit and some further investigation I found out the problem is all in guage accuracy. Truck runs properly and at the correct operating temps. Could have saved me a couple tstats and a lot of head scratching to start with the gauge.

I would say it depends on what you want out of it. Parade car I would say fuel injected and auto trans. Wheeling rig big power V8 and manual to match with tons swapped in. Personally if I was doing it, I'd make a neat little ice cream\parts getter with a 4.3 chebby and and auto trans.