I am currently about 4.5"of lift with 4.10's and 31x10.5 general grabbers on turbines. I get a very small amount of rub on my core4x4 control arms. Just thinking that 33s should fit if they are the same width. Is this correct in theory?
Everyone keeps saying the wheels and backspacing are an issue. Will 33x10.5's work on stock turbines without a spacer? On let's say about 4.5" of lift.
Might be a good idea to drill a hole at the end of the crack to terminate it and prevent it from reappearing. But I'm not a body guy and can't say for sure your repair isnt just as good.
I have come to believe that a REM is just as important to a renix owner, as cruisers tips. If you have a renix both of these are a necessity to become familiar with.
Slide the rotor assembly back on the spindle. Install the nut with your fingers far enough it will hold threads. Pull out and down (kinda hard to describe the motion) as you do this you will feel the inner bearing bump against the nut. Now use the rotor as a "reverse slide hammer" by giving it a good yank. This will remove the inner seal and bearing.
My mistake. The second picture looked like it had failing clear coat on the hood.
Edit: after a second look I was seeing the cloud reflection in the beautiful shiny paint. Amazing looking truck!!
A little time with the polisher can make that hood look way better, even with the clear coat fade.......
I hit mine with a 800, then 1000 grit wet sand and some heavy compound and it made a world of difference just at that stage.
Tightening those bolts is not that bad. I'm sure it's well within the scope of your abilities.
Surprised to see what appears to be a steel exhaust not of the stainless variety. You getting cheap at the end of the build? Lol
Might I add some of those may just need some attention like a grease job and some new boots. If the joint is still good definitely make sure they are well lubricated and sealed against water and debris.