Snowstorm87MJ

The studs should have a nut on the end. you have to remove the inner hardware between the cylinders as they are bolts. I’d recommend pulling the studs and replacing them anyways. 2023.. i broke the stud closest to the firewall and you have to smash in the firewall slightly to drill the stud out. I don’t think you need to pull the rail but it was easier in my case for what ever reason. I also had a cluster of socket extensions and a u joint socket that i had taped at a specific angle to get the other bolts out. It’s pretty doable just a lot of blind guessing putting it back together.

Looks like wiper motor is cooked. It gets nice and warm if i leave the switch on. It probably cooked off with the ecu. don't. Use the engine start feature on a battery charger if the battery is flat. It will fry $#!&.

Yeah honestly if he says that he’s probably right. He is the radio champion here.

Honestly i wonder if GM parts of columns of the era are similar too.

Is that what that little blue electronic capacitor looking thing is? Always wondered.

I couldn’t really find the plastic pieces to replace it and rebuild the ignition hole Didn’t know you could just plug it in together. Will try that next.

Honestly i wonder if the coax on your antenna internally has rubbed away and it starts interfering with metal. (Just a shot in the dark) unless something is actually wrong with the radio. Could try one of those fm transmitters i use for my xj and mj and if it picks that up then its either something potentially de soldered in the radio or again the antenna and wire. I’d guess. Could be the actual wires too. Poor grounding can cause interference.

Hey all, it’s been a few years since i’ve even touched my MJ as it was parked when the drivers side unibody has begun to degrade as the passenger door throwing it out of commission in 24. Now that I'm in a bit better position of projects. And New Hampshire canceling inspection stickers i can actually drive and work on it and bring it places. 1. this being said i have the dummy light cluster i also have a column shift 4.0 and i plan on doing the b pillar gauges for oil pressure and temperature. Looking back not having those was probably not a smart idea. Swapping the clusters is an option but because of the PRNDL is inside the clusters i figured easiest option would be b pillar gauges. Would the easiest sensor bung option be a later Cherokee thermostat housing? As it has the bung on the housing and the MJ does not or are they incompatible? Or any other mounting locations easier. I plan on replacing the rad tubes and thats why i ask about the housing. Oil pressure i assume can just be tee’d in a three way on the oil sensor hole? #2 when i first got this truck in 2019 the column was a victim of the previous owner family friend. took the angle grinder to the column to cut the ignition as it was royally locked up from sitting 20 years i did not have the time as the house was sold and it was either tow it or its going to the junkyard. An oem column shift column would be nice but i also don’t want to spend 400$. The barrel was jb welded and thats how i’ve been starting it for years. Looking for ideas on a custom ignition switch that isn’t intrusive. Will probably plate the gaping opening on the column. #3. My wipers worked but the intermittent function occasionally worked now after blowing the ECU last summer and replacing it i no longer have wiper functionality at all. Not sure if it’s related or just from sitting. I know the module was probably crap but the lo hi and wipe use to work. Not sure where to start there. (I also have a manual washer toggle as that died too but way earlier) i did do the ground clean up but i suppose thats 4 years old at this point. #4 LED turn signal sizes for the front? I went through like 4 brands last year and can't find bulbs that fit in the housings correctly. i plan on doing k suspensions terminal upgrade. The battery wires did miracles on my XJ. #5 it’s an 87. I’ve only ever seen the seatbelt and brake warning light pop up on the side dash. 4WD never worked and i don’t have a windshield washer sensor. Is there any other warning lights that i should have that i don't? 87. Dummy lights and pretty base model besides the 4.0. I have rust free doors to throw on and ripping pans out again to do unibody work yay. Sorry if this is the wrong place for this!

Honestly you’re probably right though might as well just do the whole damn thing while I'm there

Yeah the leaf spring area looks okay and structurally okay. Looking inside the rot hole the rust is only half way up the channel.

Hey guys looking for some suggestions on how to tackle this. Truck essentially got put out of commision last year because of door rot and this frame section on its way. I have brand “new” doors from the 80s with zero rust. this is the only structural frame rot on the truck the lower portion of the sidewall is beginning to feel squishy. Best advice and or ways. I wouldn’t be asking if the fuel lines weren’t in the way lol. Am i basically cutting all the lines buying them and re running brakes when i’m done with the frame? As you can see in the last photo its pretty clean structurally rest of the underside.

It does smell a lot less rich too. Sensor was cheap enough and will hopefully boost MPGs.

Bit of an update i did replace the 02 sensor and the CPS sensor. Haven’t taken it on its maiden voyage but the idle sounds healthier with the cps replaced. I will update if it stalls again but i did notice before the CPS there was a very quick mili second miss in the firing you could hear it every once in a while and that no longer happens. if it was truly the CPS that part is just a nightmare of misguidance of symptoms.

I did

Thanks for your assistance with this. I’ll clean the c101 next. I did order an 02 bosch sensor because its never been done. I did wiggle the tube on the map around and it did slightly change in idle. That tube inside the throttle body isn’t exactly in there very tightly it seems factory so i hope that will fix the issue. I do appreciate the help.