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Everything posted by Minuit
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The entire thing.
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Water pump: 13 ft-lbs. No specs given for the pulley. (I take this to mean "tighten to make-sure-this-doesn't-fall-off ft-lbs") Clutch fan nuts: 18 ft-lbs. Also no specs given for the pulley. Power steering bolts: Front bolts: 30 ft-lbs. Rear bolts: 20 ft-lbs. No spec given for the top pivot bolt (just make sure it's snug). My FSM incorrectly refers to the same figure twice, so these may be backwards. Is this what you needed? If not I'll comb through the FSM some more. Would be nice if it just had a list of torque specs but it unfortunately does not. Also, when you put the timing cover back together remember to put the "oil slinger" (the cup-shaped thing behind the timing cover) back on the crankshaft with the "cup" facing out.
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- Chain cover
- oil pan
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:wavey: Another TN person! That's pretty.
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From the 1991 FSM: Timing cover: 62 in-lbs. Oil pan: 7 ft-lbs for small bolts and 11 ft-lbs for large bolts Valve cover: 55 in-lbs. As long as you don't rotate the engine without the timing chain installed the timing will not change. I would strongly recommend getting a harmonic balancer installation tool to install the new HB (or a longer 1/2-20 bolt). Don't use the crank bolt to pull it on or you run the risk of wiping the threads from the crankshaft snout, crank bolt or both. Otherwise it's a simple R&R job. Torque spec is 80 ft-lbs for the crank bolt. Are you also replacing the timing chain? If not it might be a good "while you're in there" thing. :thumbsup: This reminds me... I really need an inch pound torque wrench.
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- oil pan
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I guess I forgot to mention that. After I got the tires balance at a cheap little shop the DW got worse and occurred much more often. Could not even get to work and back without having to pull over multiple times, and i don't even take the highway. I ordered a bunch of parts: TREs,track bar, steering dampener, center link. The whole shabang. Got my tire shop to quote me on the cost to install the parts...$600! That was a no go. I bought the whole truck for only $1175, no way I am going to pay 600 to get some parts put on. So me and my step-dad ripped it apart and put the new parts on. Alignment is only slightly off and I haven't had DW one time since. I think the main issue was one of the TREs was completely shot. I am going to get the wheels re-balanced at my tire shop rather than the little foreign shop I went for convenience last time, because I can still feel a little bit of a shimmy at high speeds. It is so much better than it was though so I am very happy with the money spent on the parts. Buying my step dad a big bottle of Whiskey is way cheaper than giving $600 to the tire shop! and i got to have some too :brows: I think there is one more TRE i need to order, alignment, rotate tires, balance tires and I should be good to go for another 100k. Also i bought lower control arm bushings but have not put them on yet. Nice. If you never need a hand with something, I wouldn't mind driving up there to hook up a fellow MJ'er. :thumbsup:
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Always a good feeling cleaning up messy wiring. Any luck with the DW?
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I had similar symptoms and reindexing the distributor fixed it. Backfiring and everything. After doing the indexing procedure I was baffled that it even ran. It ran like it should, in fact, except for the backfiring.
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MJOTM - May, 2015 - revmaynard's '88 Sportruck
Minuit replied to neohic's topic in Comanche of the Month (MJOTM)
Grille's upside down :D Veeeerry nice work, Rev. -
Yep. Autozone special horn killed its miserable self after like 5 months. At the junkyard I grabbed the factory horns out of the newest XJ I could find. Sounds like it should now. Even if your truck only came with one horn (as mine did) the wiring exists for both.
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Good info to know. Something that's always on the back of my mind is Geico totaling mine if I got so much as a dent in the rear bumper. If only insurance adjusters looked to Craigslist for their numbers :D
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My 1991 sales brochure also lists 225/75/15 as the largest stock size. Those tire shop databases have some weird errors sometimes. In response to the OP, 235/75/15 is pretty much the perfect size for a stock height truck in my opinion. Fills up the wheel wells pretty good and doesn't have any rubbing problems.
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Yeah. The only other option I can think of is an OEM one from the dealer... no thanks. I think I'll go with the aluminum Spectra one, since reviews on the forums I looked at seemed positive. I do have A/C and if funds allow I might do the evap core while it's apart. Thanks.
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Yep. They all had them from the factory.
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I wish my problem could be fixed by back flushing. Got a big green puddle in the passenger side floorboard.
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The original heater core on my '91 finally decided to give up life yesterday, so I'm planning on fixing that fairly soon. I don't really ever want to do it again, so who makes the best replacement heater core? What else should I take care of while I'm in there?
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Driveway Ornament To Daily Driver: 7 Years!
Minuit replied to Minuit's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
Definitely enough to notice. It definitely felt more planted in the turns and body roll is reduced quite a bit. Took it around the block again today and now there's a green puddle on the passenger side floorboard. :doh: I'll have a damn near new truck by summer at this rate... -
Driveway Ornament To Daily Driver: 7 Years!
Minuit replied to Minuit's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
So... I drove it today. But not all is perfect. It sounds much better than it did before the work (I'm guessing getting rid of a 156,000 mile old timing chain had something to do with this) and seems to have more power than I ever remember it having, but it's suffering from a driveline vibration at all speeds and what sounds like a very loud road noise. I believe one or more of the new U-joints I put in are faulty, improperly installed, or both. I remember having some real trouble getting the new U-joints to seat properly, so the driveshaft's probably going to a driveline shop as soon as the semester is over. Otherwise, it seems to be doing okay. Oh, and the damn A/C quit working again, too. :wall: -
Drove it. Has way more power than I ever remember it having and sounds great, but needs U-joints still and the a/c stopped working. :banana:
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Say what you want about modern safety, etc, but cars of today really all do start to look the same after a while. The MJ may be a deathtrap in an accident with its light weight and no airbags but there's no mistaking it for a Camry.
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Got an 87.... only had 86s before.... LOST!
Minuit replied to lil_loco's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
The 'red' cluster: The 'blue' cluster with full gauges: Although all base models thru '96 had a 'blue' cluster. OP's truck almost certainly had a 'blue' cluster - the base model idiot light or 3/4 one. Just the earlier ones had a 'blue' cluster with full gauges and starting around '88 the 'red' cluster appeared. That's what I was talking about in my earlier post. I thought the OP was asking whether it should have a blue full cluster or red one. -
I remember reading that the '59 didn't have a motor in it. Not sure exactly how much difference it would make in that kind of crash but it would be significant to some degree in why the front of the '59 just folded up like a piece of tissue paper.
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Got an 87.... only had 86s before.... LOST!
Minuit replied to lil_loco's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I've seen some 87s with the blue cluster and some with the red cluster. More blue than red I'd say. -
Got an 87.... only had 86s before.... LOST!
Minuit replied to lil_loco's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Funny enough that this same rubber meant to reduce vibration has a habit of falling apart and causing a vibration after about 25 or so years. -
blows blue smoke after coming down a long hill. '91 4.0
Minuit replied to shawn's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Valve seals. But first, do what Hornbrod said. CCV tube is much easier to fix than valve seals.
