Minuit

Thanks! Sorry for not responding, I have a habit of not checking this thread often. Here's how things have been recently: Changed the rear shocks today, and holy crap did it need them. One was completely blown out and might as well have not been there. Very easy to do and took just over an hour with 2 people, and that's with me poking around marveling at how tightly packed everything is. You don't even need to jack the car up. I used Monroe Sensa-Trac shocks and I'm very pleased with how the rear end feels going over bumps now. Most of the reason for the thread title is fixed. For such a big, (relatively) heavy car it sure does feel tight now. The odometer decided it wanted to start working again last month, and it's been running for about 700 miles now. The odometer gears came in the mail the other day so I'll be replacing those before the odometer quits again. I managed to get the blend doors to switch to cold air without CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK, but I'm not brave enough to see if it'll switch back and forth. Blend door actuator will be replaced Soon. Next priority is investigating the front end components, belt drive, and vacuum system. I believe there is a small oil leak from the passenger side valve cover gasket.

I prefer out but it has to match the vehicle.

Sure looks like an MJ to me.

I'm not saying anything for sure but it's entirely possible that the transmission computer under the dash is malfunctioning. Does it do anything different when you try to shift it manually? The transmission is computer controlled so faulty electronics could cause a perfectly mechanically healthy trans to do wierd stuff like that. Unless it's been abused that low of a mileage should be nothing for an AW4.

I'm in the "rebuild it" camp too. You don't want an airbag hitting your daughter. On a side note, you're the first person I've ever heard of to have an AW4 die at such a low mileage. Junkyard AW4s would be plentiful, cheap, and likely to be fine mechanically if you just want to get it on the road without a manual swap. They are a very strong transmission.

The kind of person who'd price an MJ at $30k is exactly the kind of person who'd think those wheels actually look good.

Basic Champion plugs haven't ever given me any trouble.

Look for a flat spot on the bottom of the diff looking at it from the rear of the vehicle. If the bottom is flat it's an 8.25.

Anecdote: A pretty big number of the 4.0 WJs I see around are making some pretty terrible internal noises.

As someone who is likely going to be putting a stroker together at some point in time, this thread is pretty interesting. It seems like the cam/valvetrain is responsible for most of the problems I've heard people have with strokers. What cams (I'm assuming Mopar/stock? I've never heard of people having trouble with Hesco internals either.) have the best reputation for reliability?

Rockfrog, I plan on heading to the junkyard this weekend. If I come up dry I'll be letting you know! Thanks everyone.

But Minuit, why would anyone want to do that? You should get your head checked! Everyone knows iPods and MP3s are the only way to listen to music in your car! :roll: I want to put a factory Jeep radio in my MJ (no, it still isn't running. I got my priorities set right!) instead of the fancy CD player it has now, and here's why: - The radio wiring in there right now is.... dubious. Someone in this truck's history thought wire nuts were appropriate for a vibrating, bumpy riding automobile. As a result the radio occasionally cut out, and it even went into protect mode once. I don't like that. - The expensive radio is the only remotely stealable thing inside the MJ right now. I really, really don't want my truck to get broken into when I get it back on the road. - I'm going for more of a restoration focus on my build. A 2013 era CD player doesn't match the 1984 era interior, and the stock radio just looks better. - I am one of approximately 15 18 year olds in the world who listens to cassettes. I have a pretty sizeable collection. Now that I've bored you with that, assuming I can find a working '91-'96 radio, would the only thing I need to do in addition to that is find an intact radio harness, cut what's in my truck now out, and splice the stock wiring back in? Would an older AMC radio (really big assumption that I could find a working one) also work? How many different model years will match with the wire colors of my '91? Sorry for the long post, but any help would be appreciated.

Never heard of roofs on MJs being painted a different color but the story makes sense. Sweet ride (and I also like the seat) :thumbsup:

You can get a new MJ headliner made by a1500ram on this forum if you'd rather have a correct piece. The second run of them fits very well. I put mine in my truck 2 years ago and I'm very satisfied.

:yeah that:

He's talking about the reflection of people's hands in the display on the radio :D

From what I can see in the pic it looks like the standard 3+1 pack.

Pretty on a computer screen too.

CC is a notorious bunch of tight @$$es, myself included. The truth of the matter is these trucks are worth what someone's willing to pay for one. The consensus is that MJs are going up in value. As to how much, who knows?

Noted and added :thumbsup:

Yay! A new issue has popped up: The climate control is stuck on heater mode. The climate controller shows code 24: fault in blend door calibration. The blend doors have been making a "click" noise since I got the car, so I'd assume the (notorious) blend door actuator finally died. TCCoA says it's a real fun job to replace it, but warmer weather is on the way and I'd like to have more than just heat. The shop manual should be here on Tuesday. After that gets here I can finally start fixing things. I'm not about to tear things apart yet since I have no idea how to work on this car. Tentative list of work to be done, by priority: - Replace blend door actuator so A/C will work again - Inspect and replace front end parts - Replace vacuum/emissions hoses - Replace odometer gears (the odometer has gone from intermittently working to never working) - Before doing underhood work, replace hood struts - Inspect belt drive. Replace belt if no other problems found. - Change oil within the next few weeks. Not absolutely necessary (it looked fairly new) but I want records of when it was last changed.

Looks like it was worth the wait.

:drool: FSM for the T-bird is on the way. It looked about as thick as my Jeep FSM in the pic so hopefully I'll have plenty of reading material :thumbsup:

...strikes again. That's a CLEAN car. Got any more pics of it? Like I said, I'm going to take a closer look as soon as I get some free time. Thanks a lot for the advice.

Before you start tearing into the drum brakes, TAKE A PICTURE MANY PICTURES.