Minuit

:banana: :banana: IT LIVES! :banana: :banana: After 6 months, lots of frustration, a chip knocked off the block, more money than I'd rather say, and the occasional thought of selling it, I finally have a Jeep that doesn't mark its territory. Obviously there's going to be a lot of stuff not covered in the build thread - I didn't take many pics of the RMS replacement process or anything else, so I don't really have enough material to make one of my traditional pic-heavy updates. I'm not sure if I'll make a video update or just write a big, boring wall of text. The good news? It runs and drives better than ever, with a refreshed cooling system, new timing chain, replacement of all seals and gaskets, and door mirrors I can actually see out of! The bad news? I can't justify buying cheap oil anymore, since it's not going to leak it all out in a week like it used to. :fs1: I plan on making it out to the junkyard sometime this week or next to get a 96+ valve cover, a pair of door checks, and some other odds and ends. I'll probably even drive the truck just to say I can, even though the A/C currently are broke. The rear diff has been leaking for an unknown amount of time. Since I don't want my D35 to die even sooner than it sounds like it's going to, I fixed it. There is nothing in the world that I hate more than RTV sealant. The leak was also smelling up my garage. The spare got in my way, so I took it down. I seriously don't care if you know my plate number. Instead of using RTV sealant I used this gasket. "better" options are available but I'm not putting a $25 gasket on a dying axle. Tire. Wheel. Shiny diff cover. Springs. More wheels. Box. Picked up this tire and wheel at the JY a while ago. The tire is far from perfect but it holds air and will get me home if I need it. It's also the same size as my others! I also put on the "wing" style door mirrors while the truck was non-running. I have to fill in the holes from the old mirrors now but the visibility, ability to adjust them from the inside, and better looks are well worth it. I deserve anything you can say to me for letting the garage get so dirty. This will all get cleaned out in a couple of days, I promise Here's the short list of stuff I need to do to give it a 100% clean bill of health: - Fill holes in door from old-style mirrors - Fix A/C (or make it someone else's problem) - Replace heater core (will be doing any other interior business at this time. The heater core has been going bad for a long time so this is not news) Total Expenditures since January 2015: $404.13 Junkyard Parts: Door panels: 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo Front bumper guards: 1992 Jeep Cherokee Sport Windshield wiper motor: 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport Tailgate handle: 1989 Jeep Comanche Mud flaps: 1987 Jeep Comanche Interior Quarter Panels: 1989 Jeep Comanche Courtesy Lights: 1994 Jeep Cherokee Country Front Sway Bar: Addco unit found in junkyard Maintenance Status: Oil changed 6qt generic 10W-30, 155,735 Brake pads, rotors, fluid and calipers replaced at 152,455 Brake shoes, drums, hardware and wheel cylinders replaced at 152,295 Starter replaced at 154,269 All gaskets replaced at 155,735 Odometer: 155,765 Tips: - The oil filter adapter O-ring kit sold in the parts stores is NOT correct for any vehicle made before July 16, 1992. This one fits 1987-July 15, 1992. - Fel-Pro sells a double lipped version of the 4.0 rear main seal. Use it. Back on the road, folks. . :MJ 1: .

:agree: The more I look at the pics the more I like both the interior and the truck. It's strange that such a high-option truck has the 2.5, but since it's an '86 that's a good thing. Regarding the body parts, I would suggest that you don't use RockAuto for them. In my experience they don't fit all that well (they work, but the headlamp door trims are ever slightly so wide, etc). Like so: See that the driver's side headlamp trim really doesn't look right. It also sticks out too far. This may or may not bother you; just letting you know that the RockAuto parts may not fit as well as they should. I would suggest looking to see if someone on here has the OEM parts you need. If they're willing to ship to Norway, it may be a good bit cheaper than RockAuto (since you won't have to ship by air) and you'll be getting the (much higher quality) original factory parts.

Welcome! You picked a pretty good vehicle to start off learning mechanical stuff. These trucks are ridiculously simple in almost every way. As for parts, not sure if they ship to Norway but I get all of my parts from http://www.rockauto.com If there's something you don't know about, just post a picture. There are several people here who can identify a part just by looking at its connector, for example.

:yeah that:

:D Completely guilty of this one. I think just about every PM I've ever sent out has started off to the tune of "What's happenin', dude?!" On a second thought, "dude" really isn't so bad used as a friendly greeting. I was trying to think of ways to not make that post sound like I was a crotchety old man (neither are true), and I'm definitely guilty of using "dude" every once in a while. "bro" is almost always awful though.

If they didn't care enough to organize their hackjob wiring they probably didn't care enough to do anything else right. It would have to drive d@mn good (and not be rusty) for 2500. Possible heater core and A/C issues are enough of a problem on their own.

"SUPER RARE JEP COMMANCHEE PICKUP WITH 4.0 INLINE V6 ENGINE. 65000 FIRM" "ran when parked 15 years ago" 'Manche gets annoying after a while if I'm going to be honest. Someone calling another person "dude" or "bro" when they're not their friend or brother. Most forms of text speak.

Stock 15x7 wheels are pretty easy to come by unless you want to keep the rally wheels.

It'll look plenty filled out with 235/75/15s, 30s or 31s. All of which you can run at stock height and keep your road manners. :thumbsup: Here's mine. Same suspension setup as yours, with a small lift in the rear due to load-helper shocks. That's 235/75/15 tires, and you can go two sizes bigger without needing a lift if you really want to fill it out. My grandmother bought mine new in '91 and I definitely understand the way you feel about banging it up on a trail. Just thinking about doing that to mine makes me cringe. I say keep it stock but put some nice, meaty tires on it.

Just went down to the garage and checked my cab. No cracks but now I'm worried. Is this an issue that frame stiffeners would prevent?

My stock height '91 2wd (essentially the same ride height as yours) clears 235/75/15 tires (28.9") with plenty of room to spare. The only modification you'll need to run 30s or 31s is to swap in WJ lower control arms. I would strongly suggest going with new ones if you go this route. The bushing sleeves will need to be trimmed down but it's not difficult. My stock, 154,000 mile LCA bushings were so far gone that I had basically no caster in the suspension - it was not fun to drive on the highway. The WJ control arms also have a redesigned bushing that improves ride quality and handling, so it's a 100% upgrade from stock. They are exactly the same length as the stock control arms, so if you're wanting to lift more than about 2" you'll be better off with something longer. If you're a fan of improved road handling, also try to find a 28mm front sway bar from a Cherokee or '93-'98 Grand Cherokee. The MJ is no Miata but after putting the 28mm front sway bar on it feels like a different truck in the corners. With a little work a rear sway bar from a Blazer can be made to fit. I haven't done that myself but apparently it makes a huge difference. Never heard of poly bushings destroying mount points but I really wouldn't recommend poly bushings for anything but the front sway bar unless you're building a racing truck. You've probably noticed that your 4.0 leaks a TON of oil. Inspect things in this order: valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter o-rings, distributor mounting gasket, front main seal/timing cover, rear main seal. This link is the BEST source for help with your engine and electrical system in general. It would be to your benefit to read the entire thing. As said earlier, there's no reason not to go with the NP242 if you can find one. The Autozone special Chevy shackles will get about 2" of lift in the rear. You won't need it for 30s. I like that Caddy a lot :brows: Make a build thread in the "your MJ projects" section so we can follow your adventure!

It really does look like a toy in the "after" pics. We don't usually see full sized vehicles at that angle. Weird.

80 ft-lbs. Use the installation tool I mentioned in your last thread. Looks like this: They can be rented at your nearest auto parts store, just make sure you check the threads on the inserts before you take the tool to make sure you won't get blamed for damage. I stick an expendable but strong screwdriver between the balancer and engine block (through the "spokes" of the balancer) to torque the crank bolt. Before you put the balancer back on make sure the woodruff key (the thing that sticks out on the crank snout) is present and undamaged.

Don't forget that a good portion of people outside the Jeep/MJ community see these as just another tin can light truck. Another good portion of people will buy something for 1500 bucks and drive it into the ground. Another good portion of people will throw a vehicle away because there's a tiny little paint blemish somewhere on it.

Did you run the master dry? Not sure HOW that could happen with a simple pad change, but start with simple things. How is your parking brake "partially engaging" when you haven't touched the rear brakes? Is the "BRAKE" light on the dash on?

"LOWEST ORIGINAL MILES ON THE WESTCOAST OF THE UNITED STATES" HAVE FUN VERIFYING THAT. ALL CAPS MAKES IT SELL FASTER, RIGHT?

:( I really enjoyed his pieces. Wasn't a subscriber but I have a few issues.

Let me put it this way: Driving to Mississippi and back 350 miles each way in a rented Chevy Cruze (1.4 turbo, kind of peppy actually) sure makes me appreciate the big white land barge a whole lot more. Nothing has changed for better or for worse with the T-Bird. Still my daily putt-putt car, and since I'm home from school for the summer it's not being driven nearly as much. As soon as the truck is back on the road (a few days from now possibly) the T-Bird will be getting some attention. It's due for an oil change, front brakes (they're thin but not yet squeaking) and the front end work I've mentioned before. @91Pioneer: Did you take yours out yet? If so I'd like to see more pics. Looking at your car gives me motivation to work on mine :thumbsup:

Nice. I've always had this little thought in the back of my head that maybe a P71 would make a good second car (until I got the Thunderbird at least). I've always kind of liked these cars. Rims look good too. They look a lot like the Marauder wheels IMO.

Didn't even know they made 4spd Suburbans. Very nice.

These trucks aren't like modern trucks where you have to have power windows to have an automatic transmission or something silly like that. Almost anything can have almost any combination of options so it's kind of hard to pin down exactly what you have. In most cases it doesn't matter. These trucks are like Legos. I've added many factory options to my truck using junkyard parts.

:agree: If I ever needed to do this job on my Thunderbird or something with a really complicated dash, sure, I'd try to see if I could work around it, but there's really nothing to taking the whole thing out on an XJ/MJ. Hardest part is getting the defroster bezel on and off. And regardless, when you've taken it far enough apart to even be able to move it around a few more bolts will have it all the way out!

:D For a second I was actually worried - then I saw who posted this.

:rotf: