Minuit

Looks like you got an upgrade.

There is just so much that's right about this truck... :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

Don't waste your time with the cork one.

Packing the pump with assembly lube before drill-priming has worked very well for me. Instant oil pressure on first turn-over.

Another vote for Acetone/ATF. My preferred brand name penetrating oil is Kroil (the spray can is pretty convenient), but the homemade stuff works a bit better.

Sadly, mine is not a so-rare-that-it-doesn't-exist 1993 Comanche . Neither is that one. :D

Silly question but did you look at the lower dash itself? It's bolted to the actual panel.

no more than what I would consider normal minscule amounts of particles. color was not abnormal, just that used red color, but the fluid was trash and felt way thicker than normally used trans oil This makes me think that someone at some point dumped in some of that "transmission fix" garbage.

Yeah, that's really not a bad deal at all.

My truck has a clone! This is almost exactly what mine would have looked like in 1991: http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/cto/5091467256.html

Is it bad that my mind immediately jumped to buying the very last one so I could have 2 identical trucks?

If your truck is a 4.0/auto as we think it is, the TCU will be under the lower dash panel (the part with the ashtray) on the passenger side. You'll have to take it off to get to it. I've never heard of them going bad but I suppose it's possible. How much metal/clutch material was in the transmission pan?

7mm IIRC.

The 2.5 will let you do 99% of anything a small truck has any business doing. The 4.0 will just be much more fun in the process. Back in the day a 4.0 equipped MJ was one of the fastest trucks on the market. 1991 and 1992 trucks have many electrical improvements and more power. Try to find one if you can. Fuel economy is pretty close between 2.5 and 4.0. If you want an automatic you're very likely going to end up with a 4.0. A small number of 2.5s had autos but very, very few of them did and they are painfully gutless from what I've heard. Don't even consider the 2.8 V6 (1986 only) if you don't like carburetors and lots of 30 year old vacuum lines. Get 4wd if you can find one with it you like, but don't let it be a deal breaker if you're just making the occasional gravel run with it. These trucks are decently capable in 2wd form with good tires. LWB trucks are more stable (not that a SWB is unstable) due to a longer wheelbase and let you carry more stuff. The metric ton package (extremely desirable) lets you carry even more stuff. You'll also probably find that the LWBs have more options. They are a foot longer than SWB trucks. Basically, get the 4.0. '91 or '92 and 4wd are preferable. Automatics are plentiful behind the 4.0 but rare behind the 2.5. City fuel economy will be very similar so don't let that be the deciding factor.

Truck Is Fine: June 2015 Alright, now that I'm no longer leaving huge gaps in my pics, time for a regular update! First thing I did this month was plug the holes in the doors left by the old mirrors. Some of you ain't going to like how I did it: Taken mid-tire rotation. I know, primer and Bondo kind of cheapen the whole "clean survivor" vibe this truck has, but the paint is far from perfect - it just photographs well. Very little clearcoat remains on the roof. What is there is waxed fairly regularly to prevent it from getting worse, though. As we speak I'm saving up to have it professionally repainted in the original color. Yep, same picture. The next thing I did was rotate the tires (it's slightly overdue), and in the process give everything a nice check-up. I also installed a center cap on the wheel that was missing one (thanks relyt120!). I'm happy to report that the tires are wearing pretty much perfectly. To the tire shop that last worked on my truck: Since you clearly installed my wheels with a rattle-gun set to "full retard," you won't ever be touching any of my vehicles again. I really do enjoy standing on a breaker bar with a 3ft length of cheater pipe slipped on it to get my wheels off. I write on the tires using model paint to reduce confusion. The paint says "FL" for front left - the position the tire should be in after the rotation is finished. Within the first mile or so the paint will wear off, so no issues there. The brakes at all corners look fantastic. All front end parts check out with notable exception of the upper control arm bushings. Expect the replacement of those in the next update. The shallow groove worn in my drums (see the brake job update in post 67 for details) is disappearing, too. This dude shows up pretty much every time I'm working in the garage. He's the neighbor's cat, but our dog plays with him so he sticks around. I've already mentioned in several other threads that I'm not exactly impressed with the quality of the Dorman oil pan I put on. The end result of this is that, to stop it leaking, I needed to put what I would consider excessive torque on the bolts holding the oil pan on. I'm as much for following FSM torque specs as the next guy, but the with the 7 to 11 ft-lbs specced in the manual, it leaked in multiple places until tightening the bolts further. Yes, it works. No, I'm not messing with it. I'm very tired of staring at the bottom of this engine. Last weekend we used the truck to help a family member move (multiple trips between Columbia, Nashville and Franklin totaling roughly 100 miles) in this ridiculous 100+ degree heat. If there were cooling system issues waiting to strike, they would have done it then. I did encounter and fix two minor issues: - Check engine light came on in a parking lot. The code was 14 (it may have been 13), MAP sensor fault. The vacuum line to the sensor wasn't pushed on all the way. Pushing it back on turned off the CEL and slightly improved the idle. - At a gas station, a small coolant leak appeared. The worm clamp on the upper radiator hose at the thermostat was loose. Hose clamp tightened and system refilled. Total Expenditures since January 2015: $550.86 (this is closer to the actual number for last update. Forgot a couple of things) Junkyard Parts: Courtesy lights: 1994 Jeep Cherokee Country Door panels: 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo Front bumper guards: 1992 Jeep Cherokee Sport Front sway bar: Addco unit found in junkyard, 1993 Jeep Cherokee Sport Interior rear quarter panels: 1989 Jeep Comanche Mud flaps: 1987 Jeep Comanche Tailgate handle: 1989 Jeep Comanche Windshield wiper motor: 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport Maintenance Status: Oil changed 6qt generic 10W-30, 155,735 Brake pads, rotors, fluid and calipers replaced at 152,455 Brake shoes, drums, hardware and wheel cylinders replaced at 152,295 All gaskets replaced at 155,735 Tires rotated at 155,769 Odometer: 155,977 . :MJ 1: . I may film a video about the finer points of what I've done later.

:agree:

Looks like a really nicely cared for XJ. Wonder how that hitch is mounted.

Some shop got rich off of this one. Interestingly, looks like almost all of the original unibody is still there. It's at least an '87. SporTruck didn't appear til then. Another detail they didn't get right. It's on the side of the damn vehicle (or in this case, was). The very least you can do is spell the name correctly.

That is a very big trailer indeed.

I'm calling repaint on this one, at least partially. Look at the passenger side fender badge. Such a small detail, and it looks so tacky when they're on wrong. Also the passenger side door doesn't seem to match perfectly, either. May have taken a hit in that side at some point in its life. The front fender and door are also shinier than everything else. The seller is lying. It's not all original in my opinion. Those seats are gnarly... I don't think they're supposed to be brown. Edit: didn't see the new owner's post. Regardless of the nit-picking above it looks like a great, solid driver. I just disagree with the seller calling it all original.

The thing with Torx is that you absolutely have to use the exactly correct size bit or the bolt will strip. Not like hexheads where you can sometimes get by with an incorrect size. Are you certain you're using the bit that fits the inside of the bolt perfectly? If there's even a little slop it's not the right one. Torx are prone to stripping out anyway but using the wrong bit (not saying you are) just makes things worse.

With the way some 4.0s sound (mine included), you could be fooled into thinking it's a diesel :D

:agree: If the system is in good working order there's no need for a high flow water pump if your engine is stock.

That's weird. Mine definitely would not fit without some serious "massaging" to the oil pan.

What HV pump? Never heard of that. I've been running the Hesco HV pump in my stroker for about ten years now with no problems in the installation or running it all those years. Melling M167HVS.