Minuit

Here's more or less what I see with the 96- style mirrors. Hard to nail the exact driving position with a camera but it's something like this. I don't feel like I can't see behind me (I like these way better than the ones in the OP), but some small blind spot mirrors would always help. I always adjust my mirrors to where I don't see the truck in it so I can see as much of the road as possible. If you like to see your vehicle in your mirrors you'll obviously have less view behind you.

You can rent an adequate but not good brake line flaring tool that will come with instructions at most auto parts stores. Almost any parts store should have the brake line you need as well as flare nuts. When you flare the new line (or reflare the old) do NOT use a single flare. Double only. I'm almost positive the lines are 3/16" throughout the truck. You may be able to get away with cutting a small part of the existing line off with a tubing cutter and re-flaring it with a new nut depending on space. If you need to replace a line, cunifer is better than steel since it's much easier to work with. As a side note, only use a GOOD QUALITY flare wrench on brake fittings. Cheap flare wrenches (or anything that's not a flare wrench) has a 95% chance of rounding them off. That reminds me, I need to pick up a good set before I do my master cylinder job.

Yep. Love it.

Yeah, those are the standard mirrors the majority of MJs came with. You've got several options for things to replace them with, but nothing exists to move them unless you want to drill more holes in the door closer to the front. There's really nothing special holding it to the door, just sheet metal screws.

Engine block heater: $42.66 option.

The mirror swap is pretty easy to do. Bolt in as long as you get all of the hardware from the donor vehicle. Opinion warning: The 97+ mirrors are insufferably hideous against the square MJ/early XJ body. They're ok on the 97+ body but still ugly. I don't like the ones above either, but I can understand their use for towing.

Well, crap. They were on the cheap side at least (and a massive improvement over what was on there) and at the time I thought Monroe were good shocks. Next shock change I'll go with OME for sure then.

Leaf springs do wear out with use (any spring does) but if the truck hasn't been used heavily to haul stuff it shouldn't be a concern. For what it's worth I have a set of Monroe Sensa-Trac shocks on my truck and I have no complaints after 5,000 miles.

Actually finishing the one I have. That and something with a stroker + 5-speed. A sleeper build, basically.

Yeah, if it's a stick, check for gear oil first. Otherwise my above advice stands.

All of this is assuming it's a 4.0L truck with the original engine (or at least an engine made between 1987 and 1992). Please tell us what year, engine, etc you have. It will make diagnosing things much easier. People will be very quick to say "rear main seal". Take it from me that it's a horrible, nasty job to do with the engine in the truck so you want to eliminate these things first. Keep in mind that the engine is tilted up, so oil will run down the block and drip from where the engine meets the transmission. You can't diagnose it strictly based on where the oil is coming from. 1. Valve cover gasket. Feel around the back of the valve cover. If you get oil on your hand, replace it. Easy. Use the rubber Fel-Pro gasket. Extremely common to leak from this area. 2. Oil filter adapter O-rings. Look for oil around the piece that connects the oil filter to the block. An extremely common leak but pretty easy to fix. Assuming it doesn't have a post-1992 engine swapped in, use this (click me). The part that the parts stores sell will not work, no matter how many people tell you it will. 3. Oil pressure sending unit. It's right next to the oil filter and has a wire coming out of it. Take it out and wrap some teflon tape on it. 4. Distributor mounting gasket. Look for oil where the distributor meets the engine block. The gasket costs about 4 dollars. Fel-Pro 70051. Once you've replaced all of those, suspect the rear main seal. But not before. I'd rather spend the ~60 bucks all of the above fixes will cost you before doing the rear main seal.

Even though I don't like them calling it all original, it does look pretty good. Probably resprayed in the original color (or close to it) judging by the door jambs. Those fender badges have to be fixed though. That bugs me way more than it should. They need to be a few inches lower.

Repaint. Just look at the fender badges. It kinda bugs me when people sell a repainted vehicle as "all original".

Holy crap, that is a lot of boxes. Never seen some of these options.

Make sure that the cooling system is free of air before doing anything else.

:needpics:

This.

Wish I could've been around to buy one of these new. I'd say 1991 was probably one of the best years to ever be a Jeep customer. XJs, YJs, MJs and the GW was even still around. As much as I love my base model, I'd probably check just about every single box on the order form.

I play games occasionally (nowhere near as much as I used to) on this here PC. The Xbox has more games for it right now and probably always will. And you should be able to play your 360 games not too long from now as you know.

Looks exactly like mine. Totally unmolested.

It can be eliminated, but you have to use an undersize filter (bad) and even then there are issues with clearance between the oil filter and motor mounts (VERY bad). Do the Renix engines not have the roll pin that keeps the oil filter adapter pointing up?

Short bed or long?

People just keep coming up with new ways to mis-spell Cammanchiee. To his credit the badges are gone from the fender.

The 2.8 is a downgrade in almost every way. You will be disappointed if you go through with the swap. It's a weak engine with poor fuel economy and problems keeping the knocks and oil in. Not discouraging you but retaining the stock engine is a much better idea, even if it costs more at first.

. :MJ 1: .