87MJTIM

Sounds like dropping the oil pan and looking up at the crankshaft and pistons will answer many of your questions.

As Jeff said, the part is ~$60. Remove the serp. belt. Remove the e-fan for access from above. If you have a skid plate, you may want to remove it to access from below. Get the HB puller loaner tool from the auto parts store. Pull the HB. Install the HB. Reverse your steps.

Harmonic balancer rubbing or scraping the timing chain cover? Look to see if the HB is starting to separate.

And on a lighter note…

My bad. He didn't mention AT. I had replied to another thread where the OP was converting from AT to MT.

According to Google, an AT uses a different type of bearing than a MT. So, I think changing it out is necessary. (I read it on the internet, therefore, it must be true.)

The OP is MIA

The pilot bearing/bushing (PB) is a sleeve that sits inside the back of the engine crank. The tip of the trans' input shaft fits inside the sleeve when the eng/trans are mated together. The PB helps keep the input shaft from wobbling. One major issue to consider is the size of the input shaft tip. The early AX15s (89-93) have a tip that is approx. 1/2". Later AX15s (94+) have tips that are approx. 3/4". You need to know the tip size to purchase the correct PB.

First of all, you will need a manual transmission. I don't remember when Jeep switched from the AX15 to the NV4500 (?), but it was around the year of your TJ. I have heard that the two types could be swapped. Others may know more than me. Be sure to get the bell housing and internal parts. Also the shifter. Second, you will need a clutch and brake pedals. An auto most likely has the wide brake pedal. Get the appropriate fly wheel for your engine electronics. Then, a master cylinder, hose line, and slave cylinder. Get a clutch kit that includes the pressure plate, disk, and release bearing. The kits may or may not come with a pilot bushing/bearing. Be sure to check. You will have to "jump" the neutral safety switch for the auto trans control so your engine will start. The overall length of an auto trans and a manual are different, so the drive shaft lengths may have to be adjusted for the differences. Others may add to (or correct) what I provided.

Here is the link to the 88 electrical manual. It should be the same for 89 wiring.

What year and engine? There is the 88 and 87 electrical manuals in the DIY section of CC

The first thing I would spend the $$ on is about 35% going to taxes. After that, I have no clue. (First, I would have to buy a ticket.)

Thank you!!!

Eagle, do you have ability to test and/or repair regulators (yellow boxes)? I have pulled several from RENIX era XJs, including several complete harness/vacuum kits.

Dogs have masters. Cats have servants.

What about the rear bed corners that we were teased with?

I purchased a Lisle flaring tool, but it only does 45* double flares

I just did my D44 brakes yesterday- wheel cylinders, adjuster kit and hardware kit. All purchased from NAPA. Cylinder and adjuster kits are L R specific. Includes self adjuster. I had to get the shoes from Auto Zone. NAPA couldn’t get the shoes. (I hate drum brakes. Makes me want to do the disk brake conversion.)

I will shed a tear for that 65/6 fastback.

Yes, I went there to get what I could. The rear window was broken then. Either the previous person was a jerk, or they broke the window trying to remove it. The gasket was still there at that time (early August).

That was there back in July. I got to it an someone had picked it pretty clean. Obviously, others came after me.

Thank you

The AT is on my “bucket list”

Where do you live???

Welcome to the madness File out your signature with info on your MJ: yr, eng, trans, etc. and your location. BTW - Comanche has just one 'm'.