87MJTIM

There is a weighted pendulum that activates the locking mechanism. Tugging on the belt doesn't always cause the pendulum to move enough to trigger the lock. You could try parking on a downhill and tugging or driving slowly and step on the brakes.

My lower left WT never grew in. My jaw was broken in an accident when I was 5. The other 3 grew in without any problems. My dentist didn’t like the fact that the upper left had nothing opposing it. He said it would just keep growing downward. He yanked it out. Now I’m unbalanced. (Not the first time I’ve been told that.)

Don't forget Dr. Brown's Delorean

Looks like this:

Bed Frame: (That is an original GPW in the background of the last picture.)

Floor:

I have returned to get my MJ restored - for a 2nd time. The first shop was highly recommended. However, it was a collision shop. It didn't do restorations. I could write a lengthy description of my experience, but not now. Less than one year after it was "finished" it had to go back to fix rust that wasn't properly addressed. A few years later, the bondo they used around the rear wheel well was cracking. I started my search for a restoration repair shop that would do it properly. I think (and hope) I found it. I dropped it off in early December and the owner started work right away. I will upload pictures of what he finds and the repairs he does. These are the first round: the gas tank skid plate, the floor pans (something the other shop was supposed to have addressed), and other misc. pictures.

Those brakes look pretty familiar... where have seen those before?

The same conversion kit is available on Morris4x4 for $40 less https://www.morris4x4center.com/teraflex-rear-disc-brake-kit-jeep-late-model-bearing-pocket-tf-4354420.html

The LSV was deleted years ago. I picked up two prop valves at the JY yesterday. One from an XJ with rear drums. The other was from a ZJ with disc ABS - only one line for front brakes. I watch a YouTube video on converting this to handle non-ABS. I will run one new line to the rear eliminating both old lines.

Moving forward with a booster upgrade and swapping to an XJ prop valve. The one I got with the booster only has 4 ports: 2 in and 2 out. The port in the back is plugged. Normally, the valve should have 5 ports: 2 in, 1 for RF, 1 for LF, and 1 for the rear. Since the abs controls each wheel it stands to reason it only needs 2 inputs: 1 front, 1 rear. Am I correct? Do I have the wrong valve? EDIT: I may have found my answer. https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/proportioning-valve.787040/

I reached out to Walker in Oct for the LB tailpipe. I was told that supplies were back ordered. New stock would not be available until Nov - Dec. I went to a local muffler shop to replace mine. I would suspect that SB exhausts are similar.

I do not believe the MJ was wired for the lower washer sensor. The idiot light space may be present (Jeep was using the same parts for MJ & XJ). But the wiring from the bottle to the dash is MIA.

Sounds like dropping the oil pan and looking up at the crankshaft and pistons will answer many of your questions.

As Jeff said, the part is ~$60. Remove the serp. belt. Remove the e-fan for access from above. If you have a skid plate, you may want to remove it to access from below. Get the HB puller loaner tool from the auto parts store. Pull the HB. Install the HB. Reverse your steps.

Harmonic balancer rubbing or scraping the timing chain cover? Look to see if the HB is starting to separate.

And on a lighter note…

My bad. He didn't mention AT. I had replied to another thread where the OP was converting from AT to MT.

According to Google, an AT uses a different type of bearing than a MT. So, I think changing it out is necessary. (I read it on the internet, therefore, it must be true.)

The OP is MIA

The pilot bearing/bushing (PB) is a sleeve that sits inside the back of the engine crank. The tip of the trans' input shaft fits inside the sleeve when the eng/trans are mated together. The PB helps keep the input shaft from wobbling. One major issue to consider is the size of the input shaft tip. The early AX15s (89-93) have a tip that is approx. 1/2". Later AX15s (94+) have tips that are approx. 3/4". You need to know the tip size to purchase the correct PB.

First of all, you will need a manual transmission. I don't remember when Jeep switched from the AX15 to the NV4500 (?), but it was around the year of your TJ. I have heard that the two types could be swapped. Others may know more than me. Be sure to get the bell housing and internal parts. Also the shifter. Second, you will need a clutch and brake pedals. An auto most likely has the wide brake pedal. Get the appropriate fly wheel for your engine electronics. Then, a master cylinder, hose line, and slave cylinder. Get a clutch kit that includes the pressure plate, disk, and release bearing. The kits may or may not come with a pilot bushing/bearing. Be sure to check. You will have to "jump" the neutral safety switch for the auto trans control so your engine will start. The overall length of an auto trans and a manual are different, so the drive shaft lengths may have to be adjusted for the differences. Others may add to (or correct) what I provided.

Here is the link to the 88 electrical manual. It should be the same for 89 wiring.

What year and engine? There is the 88 and 87 electrical manuals in the DIY section of CC

The first thing I would spend the $$ on is about 35% going to taxes. After that, I have no clue. (First, I would have to buy a ticket.)