87MJTIM

Search the DIY section for the 88 electric manual.

Napa Gold for many years - at least since the rebuild.

Thanks, AZ. I don't know what good v. bad bearings look like. My mechanic, Kenny, is going to speak with another engine builder about the bearings and crank.

Update, so far. I went to meet with the mechanic. He had the truck on a lift and had the oil pan off. There were no chunks of metal in the pan and no glitter in the oil. He was inspecting the bearings under the main caps and the connecting rods - at least the bottom halves. There no noticeable markings on any of the bearings. He told me he used a stethoscope on the engine and thought the sound was loudest at the center of the oil pan. He pull the oil pump. There was some "notchiness" in spinning the gears. The is also some up-down motion in the distributor shaft. He thought those might be the source of the sound. He is ordering a replacement - high flow - pump. Good so far. Not performing and amputation for what may only be a cut. When I got home, he called to tell me he put plastigage on the rear main bearing and got a reading of .006. Factory spec calls for .002. He is going to see if he can appropriate size bearings. Next may be just a crank kit. Making progress - hopefully.

Thus proving you can take it with you when you go. (Rim shot.)

Manual transmission: always was, always will be.

I am going to talk with the mechanic about dropping the pan to look

It’s loudest on first start up. The ticking varies with engine speed.

I don't want to rush in to a decision, but I don't have a lot of time to do any work myself. I will speak with the mechanic later this week.

Another observation: (I am the original/only owner. This is my daily driver.) The oil pressure (OP) used to run from 40 to 60 at idle and under load when "new". Not long ago (I don't remember when) the OP started running at a constant 60. I have seen the gauge up to 70 (the small dash between the 60 and 80 line.) Once warm, the OP comes down to 60+. Could there be a restriction limiting oil flow to a critical bearing? I have tried putting "snake oil" in the engine previously: MMM and Seafoam.

The sound did get louder about 2 weeks ago. The speed of the sound increases with RPMs. As the engine warms up, the sound does get less noticeable, but does not go away. I have not noticed any change in performance. I have been using NAPA Gold for several years, at least since the rebuild. No FRAMs for this engine!

I have a stethoscope. I used it previously, before the sound got louder. I could not detect a noticeable difference coming from any point on the head, on either the passenger's side or driver's side. This diagnosis first lead me to an exhaust leak, but no visible cracks. Some earlier observations: The sound is the same on the pass and driver's side. Wouldn't the noise vary from side to side if it were an exhaust leak? The exhaust is on the driver's side and would be blocked while listening on the pass's side. The sound is equal from underneath the truck also. I don't want to jump into a swap, but I also don't want to through money at it.

Pros? Cons? of swapping in a reman? What have others experienced with reman's? I am kind of sentimental and think keeping the engine that came with the truck is nice/cool. But, it is just a "consumable" like other parts on the truck. Already swapped/replaced: BA 10, for and AX15 (and proper tcase). D30 w/ CAD, for a D30 w/o CAD Sagging, broken leaf springs, for General leaf springs. Closed cooling system to open cooling system

I bet there are 4 to 6 people in the backseat manning the orr's and one person in the front seat beating a drum.

I was going to ask him to drop the oil pan and look at the bottom end. I know everything is do-able - with time. For the next three months, I am very busy. (I am a CPA. It's tax season.) The OP is approx. 60. I did see it running up above 70, but not 80. (If the gauge is correct.) See above, re: my work. It was rebuilt about 6 years ago, 50k miles. It was done by a client (not the current mechanic) that ran an engine shop. He is no longer in business. My mechanic would get a Jasper. I've searched Jasper's before on the internet. There are some good reviews and bad reviews. Often, only bad experiences are given reviews. (That's not meant as judgement, just an observation.)

My 87 has had a ticking sound for a while now. I thought it might just be an exhaust leak. A visual look at the manifold didn't show any large cracks. I then thought it my be a lifter tick. I pulled the valve cover and tugged and twisted the rocker. (I don't know what to look for.) None seemed excessively loose. I could twist two sets ever so slightly. I think those were not under load from the CAM. Last week or so, the ticking became louder. I took the truck to my mechanic to inspect. He feels the sound is coming from the bottom end. Rebuild or Reman - that is the question. It was rebuilt 50k miles ago.

Possibly stuck in open loop with long term fuel trims very high. You will need to perform more tests to understand these engines and fix the problem. Do you have a Nickintimedesign REM yet? If not, it is well worth getting. Also, download the electrical and Renix fuel system manuals from the DIY section.

Year? Eng? Trans? 2x or 4x?

Date codes are usually Yr/Wk. The last two digits would be 01 - 52. If the tires are from the 90's and earlier the first set will have one digit, 2000+ will have two digits. From the numbers you pictured, I don't think that is the date code. There are not 88 weeks in a year. The number on the left in the photo (ending 29) may be the date code.

Now you're just older?

The LTFT above 128, the computer is detecting a lean condition (too much air), it will enrich the fuel. Check for vacuum leaks and tighten the intake manifold bolts/nuts. Check the fuel pressure, and possible clogged injectors.

Your LTFT is WAY too high. The computer is enriching the fuel trim. LTFT should be ~ 128.

My profile shows I joined July 2011, but I signed up earlier than that. I couldn’t remember my login info and re-registered. I am now both CC certified and YouTube certified. Thank you CC.

What are your LT and ST fuel trims?