87MJTIM

I don’t believe the Renix Jeeps had a NSS, but I’ve never had an automatic.

As an owner of a 87 MJ with an AX15, it doesn't have, never had, and doesn't need a NSS. Your friend has been given bad advise.

I thought the number of tumblers were different from the door and ignition keys.

I can find Renix O2 testing. I think HO sensors work on diff scales. https://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm Scroll down to the O2 sensor.

O2 sensor stuck in open loop?

Evapo rust works great

Sounds like yours may have been changed in the past. Factory CC used the football reservoir. You indicated that the cannister is from a 91.

The oval one is if you have cruise control.

This reminds me of a certain NFL team that had to change the name because a minority of Native Americans (First Nations) people were offended. The original use of the name was descriptive, not a pejorative. People from Europe were describe as White Men. Native Americans' skin was red. The team took the name not from Native Americans, but from the Boston Tea Party. The colonials' dressed up as Indians and dumped the tea in the harbor. The team started in Boston and were first named the Braves (like the baseball team, now in Atlanta). For reasons I forgot, the owner changed it to the R word. The emblem/logo was drawn by a Native American Indian. Surveys of NA people over the years found that most people were either in favor of the name (and other sports teams' names) or were indifferent. A minority - depending on the survey - was less than 20% were "offended" by the name. Richard Nixon once referred the first group as the silent majority. The use of Indian name as mascots or Jeep vehicles was never intended as pejorative. Who would ever root for a team or drive a vehicle with that type of name. (See why the Chevy Nova didn't sell well in Spanish speaking countries.) If we have to eliminate Native American names from our lexicon, then we have change the name of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, North and South Dakota, and Oklahoma, to name just a few. Additionally, many cities need to change names: Indianapolis, Cheyenne, and many towns in Mass. When will this PC "stuff" end? (I am done on my soap box.)

Nice. Long Bed, Laredo ?

http://www.mtscompany.com/sendingunits.htm Yes I have a link.

I have to one pictured and one that mounts in front of the console storage box. I don't care for either one. The pictured one is to far to reach, doesn't hold large size drinks, and cuts off leg room for the passenger. I don't have the lower brace. It has fallen off the console on bumpy roads spiling what ever it was holding. I removed it. It is sitting on my spare parts shelf. The one that sits in the console is a little better, but with a manual, my elbow keeps hitting my drinks. I am going to move it the parts shelf next. I just use a sports bottle with a sealable straw. It rests in the console storage tray. Easy reach. Doesn't interfere with shifting. Doesn't get in the way for the passenger. Doesn't fall on the floor on bumpy roads.

If your old one is the BA10, the bell housing do not swap. You need to take the whole AX15 - bell housing and the parts in the BH. Also, grab all the parts I listed above for the swap. The AX15 is a better transmission.

I am assuming your 87 has a BA10 - factory. The 96 will bolt up to your 4.0. However, there are several parts you need to bring along from the 96: The transmission, including the bell housing, and internal fork. The transfer case (your old one will not fit [assuming BA10]) The tcase shift linkages The hydraulic master-slave cylinders The trans cross members and trans mount. The pilot bearing/bushing will need to be changed. The trans input shaft tips are different sizes. Probably a good time to change the clutch The drive shafts will fit the AX15.

Nickintime has a YouTube video where he coverts to rear disk brakes. During the video, he mounted the calipers on the wrong sides - the bleeders were on the bottom of the caliper. I was shouting at the video (yes, I was shouting) that they were on the wrong side. Later in the video, he shows the calipers on the correct sides - bleeders up top. Funny, he didn't mention finding and fixing the error.

Congrats! Persistence pay off.

Have you reconnected all wires you disconnected? I am thinking the CPS.

The REM is good to have. It tells you what the engine is doing. That info is useless if you don't know how to understand it. You need to have the Renix Fuel Injection System manual. Here is a link to the thread with the manual.

First thing to look at is the speedo cable. Get under the truck and examine the connection at the transmission tail housing. Is it loose? Tighten it. Unscrew it an examine the cable tip. Is it frayed? Probably need to replace. If that end is OK, then trace the cable back to the firewall. Any cracks or bends? If those check out, then you have to check the cluster end. This will require removing the gauge cluster.

The beautiful thing about the Renix era Jeeps is they have three (3) temp sensors. First, the sensor for the gauge is located on the head, back by the firewall. It sends the signal to the temp gauge. Second is the Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS), This is located on the driver's side engine block below the intake/exhaust manifold. It feeds the coolant temp to the ECU. The REM reads this signal. Third is the e-fan temp sensor. It is located on the driver's side radiator. It controls the relay that turns the e-fan on and off. The fact that the gauge and REM don't have the same reading is not surprising. My gauge use to read higher - 200*-210*. Now it reads 180*-190*. It seldom reaches much above 200* on hot days. The REM will read ~10* higher than the gauge. My e-fan will turn on when the REM shows 219*. (Before you say the e-fan should turn on at ~195*, remember the e-fan sensor is on the cool side of the radiator. The CTS is in the hot engine block.)

I wasn't going to touch that one. I've heard it with different "names."

FIAT - fix it again, Tony.

The servo, #2, is the other end of the vacuum line.

With a 4.0 auto, you should have 3.55 for gearing. Not the best, but better than 3.07 with a manual. Since the CC system operates on vacuum, as the engine strains to go up hill in a given gear, it will loose some vacuum. The CC will suffer.

When mine was working, that happened all the time. Is yours a 4.0 or 2.5?