DirtyComanche

For a front driveshaft any 4L/Ax-15/NP231 XJ one should work, but they might be a little different if you go with one that's too new (should still bolt up). Ultimately I use a tape measure to confirm.

I meant I'd build it rather than buying it as something prefabricated that was meant to go on an XJ/MJ. I don't really understand what you want. I take it your truck is a 2wd. And it's been lifted via a SOA, so you want 6" of lift in the front or so... But it's a 2wd. So unless you're jumping it at the dirt track, you're probably not going to care too much about offroad performance. So, I'm thinking you really want this for ride quality, but you don't want radius arms because??? Radius arms do have drawbacks from the standpoint of suspension behaviour. A poorly designed 4 link can easily have similar issues. However, many people are driving radius arm setups on the road and find them to be perfectly acceptable. The drawbacks of radius arms can be largely mitigated on the street by dropping the frame side mount point, which if you aren't wheeling it won't be an issue. Beyond that the poor placement of the track (panhard) bar mounts is the main issue with making it handle real nice. If you aren't wheeling it, you aren't going to care about flex, so the inherent bind of a traditional radius arm setup isn't going to matter to you, and you do not need to run a wristed (or whatever snazzy marketing term is currently being used for that) setup to allow for more flex (which has more odd handling issues than the traditional setup). If I was you, and assuming you're intending to use the truck for what I think, I'd find the cheapest radius arm setup that looks okay and isn't welded by barefoot children in China. I would make sure it used poly high quality bushings for long life, and had a reasonable attachment system to the uniframe. I'd then probably figure out a way to drop frame side brackets 2" or so. If I really wanted to feel comfortable in the truck at highway speeds I would get the biggest antisway bar I could find, and I would build new brackets for the track bar and either build or buy a new track bar. I don't see the point in going to a 4 link w/panhard for a pavement pounder, unless you're wanting to hit the autocross track (which I would not recommend doing in a lifted truck, people laugh at you). If you're actually intending to wheel this thing, then I apologize. But you didn't mention intending to do a 4wd swap, or building it as a pre-runner.

The yellow box is the cruise control module thinger. That push button switch is quite possibly related, or maybe not. I've never owned one with cruise control.

I don't know how well those spacers for the bar pins will hold up long term... Trick to getting the bar pins out, wrap the shock in tape, put some grease in the bushing (just to absorb heat) and slice one side of the bar pin off with a zip cut. Just don't cut the bushing or anything else you care about.

Really? Hmm. I don't think mine did... That was a long time ago though.

What's the nifty thing to do with these as far as moving or storing them? I have an overhead hoist so I *should* be able to take it off easily by myself (might have to install some eyes into the top of it). But I'm not sure what to do with it after then. Moving dollies into the back yard? It would have to go through the man door... Just toss it on some blocks to store it? I wrecked my back pretty good some time ago, so I try to avoid brute force to lift or move things. Otherwise I wind up lying on the floor for a couple days.

Nope. Take the whole thing out. The rest of it is riveted together.

Tomorrow is the plan. Unless I clean up my scrap/tires/yard instead. The POS Ford is gone, and hopefully he sells it so I don't ever get talked into working on it again.

I wouldn't buy a kit.

The extra plugs are for features that aren't installed. They used common chassis and engine harnesses to save money/headaches on assembly. If you have a FSM it's fairly easy to figure out what they're for. As a FYI on the wheel hub/brake issue, there's a couple different generations of hubs and brakes (and knuckles). Somebody bought the wrong parts or got them from a junkyard.

So, it still does it once you drive it for a while. There's a POS Ford in my shop that needs to get finished up, then I will pull the trans out of this thing.

Umm, yeah, wish I knew that before. I thought it wasn't going to be a big deal until I laid out where it was sorta supposed to go... :doh:

I found some used Firestone M/Ts. They aren't perfect but that's what you get for being cheap.

I might have got somewhere tonight. Or it's just screwing with me. I ordered a new master cylinder and a line, since the one on there did not visually match any of the listed parts and used an integrated line. As it turns out it appears that the new Luk master is a 1" bore, and the one of unknown origins on there was a 7/8" bore. Or at least that's what it appears, short of actually pulling the piston out of them it's hard to say. Does anyone know what the clutch master bore size is supposed to be? Installing the replacement clutch line was insane. I ordered a Dorman one since I can't afford dealer parts, and I could not find any other options. It was almost the right shape, but would not possibly fit. Modifying it to fit turned into a long ordeal of chasing my tail. I was very angry at some points in this process, and may have said bad words in an outside voice. Anyways, bled it out and surprise surprise, it appears the clutch will now fully disengage. It also markedly changed the engagement point in the travel, so I'm thinking that's a good sign. Tomorrow I will try to drive it some more and see. The clutch itself may still be a roasted piece of junk even if this was actually the problem all along. Also I need to track down some new bushings for the clutch pedal pivot point, I didn't realize how sloppy they were until I was monkeying around in there trying to get the old master out.

I've been busy with other stuff. Might poke at it tonight but I can't tear it apart.

I guess the first question I should have asked was if it has ever run correctly? I mean, is this a new thing that it's running poorly, or did you just build this stroker and it's doing this? If you just built it I'm just going to step back because I don't know anything about strokers or what parts you should be running.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/49753-found-replacement-air-charge-temperature-sensor-or-iat/page-2 Has the resistance tables and the GM P/N.

I wonder what happened that the Spartan ate its pins. Normally they're pretty good, as far as lunchbox lockers go. :dunno:

The IAT is discontinued but there's a GM P/N that works, you'll just need to make an adapter pigtail, there's a thread on it somewhere that also has the resistance vs temperature values. It can be tested like any other temperature sensor with a multimeter and a thermometer (and maybe a heat source). It probably isn't the problem. As long as the IAT and CTS are ballpark it won't cause massive issues. I'm with Jeep Driver in that I want to say it's a MAP issue, or perhaps a vacuum leak causing such, as a hunch. However you have an O2 sensor on hand, even if it is suspect, so I would try it and see.

That vacuum reading is determined by the MAP sensor? Coolant temp sensor is also producing reasonable readings? IAT? Got an O2 sensor you can swap in?

Yes. But it's rare. Normally you'll see it running down the front of the booster, or onto the firewall, or puddling all over the inner fender. You can just pull the two nuts that hold the master on and slip it back to see, no need to undo the lines just to take a look. I believe they're a 13mm. 5 minute job.

If you get a HO sender it will fix it. Or vice versa.

That should be any easy fix. Might need parts of the inner fenders too, which you can bolt on if you have no ability to weld, just be sure to take care when removing them from a donor XJ. If you have any interest in going to the newer style front end, now is your chance.

The T4 is the 4spd version of the T5. They're made by Borg Warner. Out of curiosity I would try stuffing the shifter in the 5th gear position to see if it is actually a T4, it probably is, but I've heard of it happening before.

What type of paint did you use? It looks really good.