75sv1

The stand up desk is a good idea, or adjustable. We were suppose to get some, but that move never happened. A few drafting suggestions : get a 27-32" inch monitor. Get computer glasses. Maybe take eye supplements. Lutein 4mg and I'd have to check what other.

I have the WJ big brake upgrade. I went with Ruff Stuff's Chevy 1-ton upgrade. I think I have it under the knuckles. I did use Rusty's OTK Trac Bar. I do have an Ironman 4X4 Fabrication OTK Trac bar kit on order. Might look at Ironman 4X4 Fabrication. A bit $$$, but I don't think people complain about the parts. I have not run the upgrade 'Y' steering upgrades though.

I am presently working on a 2000 XJ. It would crank over etc. Everything but run. It did have issues with the front wipers. I did check with NOID lights on the injector plugs. They would not light, till I stopped cranking. I did try starter fluid. That did not help. I did try and trace voltage with some but not enough success. A friend suggested it might be the ignition relay, at the key. I replaced it and not it runs. Edit: Should be now it runs. I did check the coil(s) with an Ohm meter, as AZ describes and the Factory manual. I will be doing the Viper Coil upgrade at some point. Sort of want to see how that works out. Also, I will be swapping in an older head. So, the Viper Coil upgrade would simplify things.

I have gone from machining to drafting and now in metrology. I did gain weight. Went from a 33 inch waist to a 40 inch waist. It didn't help when I started drafting, the specs ladies were taking cooking classes. I would plan to do some exercise after work. I would take walks during break periods, lunch etc. While I was walking, a lot of the times I'd be figuring out work issues. Drafting can be challenging and or mundane. My main problem was/is keeping off the internet. I did get into some design work. Possibly a huge leap will be GD&T. That will depend on your firms movement to GD&T. My machining background helped. Still, it was and is a learning curve.

Here's a gear calculator I use : http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html I think the Jeep 4.0L likes to run at 1,800-2,000 RPM at say 65 MPH. Some will disagree. I was running that on 31's and 4.10, stock motor 2.5 exhaust. I did have some problems on some inclines on 79 in WV. I bored out the TB to 60mm. I didn't have problems with the inclines the next trip. Still, could use a bit more power.

I am going through this with my XJs. It depends on what the OP wants to do, and what area. Georgetown IN, he might be getting into some hill country. My present XJ driver had 31's with 4:10s. It did well in WV, after I bored the TB. I have 32's on it now. I think I need to regear to 4.30s. My present build will be on 30.5 (metric 215/85R16 or 245/75R16). I will be going with 3.73s on it. I am buying a D30 from a ZJ, and a Ford 8.8. I think I'd go with the AMC20 with 4.10s and do a search for the D30 on Car-Parts.com. Try ZJ and XJs. For some reason they do not cross reference the ZJ axles to the XJ. There are rear disc upgrades for the AMC20.

I've rebuilt a couple of gear boxes. You do need a dial inch pound torque wrench. A spanner wrench and then there is the sheet metal locking nut. I think I used a drift pin to tighten it. I'd check out Blue Top gear boxes for a rebuild.

Would a Boomerang shackle mitigate that? Iron Rock sells one, that has stock and 1" holes. Also, agree that new springs can settle down after a while. The 4.5 RC leafs were about a 6 inch when they were installed. Settled to 4.5 after a few years.

What size if the TB bored to? Has the O2 been changed? What brand? They do make adjustable MAP sensors. Or I should say an item to make the MAP sensor adjustable. The Stroker guys use them.

How much higher is the rear? You could use Cherokee shackles to 'delift' it 1 inch. The bump steer, you might look at Iron Man 4X4 Fabrication. He makes 'off set' track bar mounts. Says they help with bump steer. I get a bit of bump steer in my XJ, with 4.5 lift. I have the OTK track bar on order.

Check the steering gear box is bolted on tight. Also, there is a factory aluminum brace. You might upgrade it with an aftermarket steel one. Also, see if the gearbox is adjusted correctly. A lot of other stuff can cause this. And when it happens it takes other parts with it. Check the frame by on the drivers side between the Tackbar mount and the gear box. Edit, that should be 'check the frame for crack(s)....' . Pete M's advice is good. Need to check everything. Wheel bearings etc.

As for studs vs bolts. I was looking at getting the ARP studs. I do not remember where my info came from. Weather from the builder of my stroker motor parts or other sources. Unless you are doing supercharging or turbo, or very high compression, then you would not need head studs. The down side to studs is if you have a problem with the head while the motor is in, then it is difficult to get the head off.

If your track bar is lose, I'd start there. It's not fun driving with a lose or a track bar not attached.

Canada is one of the most expensive to ship to.

Where do you guys think the 'FREE" shipping comes from? Yes, the other guys pay for it. I do find FedEx to be the cheapest when shipping within the Continental US. To HI AK and US possessions, USPS. Also, USPS to Foreign countries.

Last time I tired to sell some headlights, they guy couldn't make a decision. Take pictures, take pictures. He wanted perfect taillights for $40-$50. I stopped picking up MJ taillights, as the price increased at the PnPs. That and dealing with Jeep people. Last parts I sold, I never got paid for them. Seems Jeepers go through divorce a lot.

https://www.morris4x4center.com/in4x4mation-center/VIN-jeep-cherokee-xj-1984-2001.htm?utm_source=cj&utm_medium=6146822&utm_campaign=cj&cjevent=3a0c6e75c59611e983d0012d0a240612

I did not. There is the threading fitting that the pressure hose goes to. That needs swapped in from the MJ/XJ PS Pump, so the threaded fitting on the hose can match up. Since you will be using your original Gear Box, you don't need to do anything there. I think the Durango/Dakota box is a direct fit, except for the spacers from the frame as stated before. I think the '70s Corvette had hydraulic ram type steering.

I looked at pictures of the Dakota pumps on Rock Auto. It looks different.

Did you look at the WJ pump? It does a bit better than the stock XJ pump. I don't know what the Dakota has for a PS pump. Some of them are set up for a snow plow.

I thought reverse was a direct manual gear. I could be wrong. I'd unplug the trans control unit. Then see if it has the same problem. You will have to manually shift. Also, no down shift on the trans. So will have to brake to reduce speeds.

The buttons are 97-98 (possibly 96-98) and 99-01.

I'm on Rusty's adjustable short arms. No drop bracket. I got them used. I have ProComp front springs and Rough Country rear springs. I have a set of new JKS front adjustable control arms that should be going in this weekend. The rear springs were put in new a few years back. I had 6+ when new. They have settled to a 4.5-5.0 lift. I plan to put in OME 3.5 rear springs and a Boomerang shackle to get to 4.5 rear lift. I might go with another front spring. Yeah, that's about it. Still, some variance. I want to try the OME shocks in the rear vs Bilsteins. I do this with Bilsteins on my MB 240D. HD in the front and Sports in the rear. That is to help with the weight on the diesel engine.

I have the Bilstein 1500's on my XJ, for probably 2 years. Highways use and country roads. A touch stiff, but could be the RC springs. Also, its Jeep. I do have Old Man Emu rear springs and shocks to install. They are in the same price range. Since I haven't used them, I can't say either way. I believe them to be the same quality, but a bit softer. Haven't heard any complaints on them either. I am on a 4.5 lift.

HESCO makes one. I did buy one. Hornbrod I think had one on his MJ, and Go Jeep I think has one. I remember they had to put in a flow restrictor. So, I would not go that route. The WJ water pump will not fit. Or I should say the bolt pattern is a bit different. I think one extra bolt hole. One of the other bolt hole is off pattern. Also, I think it is reverse rotation. Try this and remove the fan shroud. I know others say you need it. But if it is interfering with the fan rotation, it might impede air flow. I had some issues and removed mine. The temps dropped. Also, then I would look at the motor mounts. If they are shot, then is the fan dragging on the shroud. Edit: did some web surfing. Motorad makes Hi-Flow Thermostats. PN 2000-195. Saw it on Rock Auto.