89 MJ

Yup, that needs replacing because of the cracks.

If the rubber in the balancer is cracked, it needs replacing.

That’s a shame that it wasn’t nice. Going to try to get another one? Or going a different route with the rear bumper?

More pictures of the cab after blasting and ready for primer. The firewall did not get blasted because it is going to get smoothed.

The cab is back from the sandblaster

The rim on that eBay one doesn't even look like it was the right color. Looks like it was very bright. Hopefully you can find a good one.

I think you might have to make them. The metal door handles were 84-86 only if I remember right. I’m not sure if all of the chrome ones were metal or not, but I doubt that anyone makes the gaskets for them.

This thing had to come out of storage because COE parts were getting blasted and needed a dry spot to get stored. My dad also got the carburetor dialed in now that it’s got a decent engine. I’m looking forward to putting more miles on it when I’m home next.

I think since 2020, parts have constantly been backordered, increasing in price, poor quality, and every company has terrible customer service. My dad ordered a full trunk floor for his 64 Chevelle 2 years ago when the company was doing a free shipping promotion on everything and it hasn't shipped and they just keep making excuses. It's the exact same price for every 64-67 Chevelle, Cutlass, Skylark, and Tempest/Lemans/GTO. He ordered a Holley Sniper from another car. Installed it per Holley's instructions and it will kill the battery within a week. Talked to Holley, sent the unit back to them, they said its normal and there is nothing wrong with it. It's a $2,000 system that isn't any better than a carburetor. And Holley owns a ton of companies too, all of which have gone down in quality. For the most part anymore, if I need an OEM type replacement part, I'll shop on Rock Auto because it always has the cheapest prices. Any other part I need, I look for either a used one if I can't make it myself, or I'll build it, depending on what it is.

Those look great!

I can never remember if Bosch is the good one or NTK was the good one. Disregard the first part of my previous statement. Get an NTK.

If that doesn't fix it, next time it happens, check for spark. It is getting air, so it either must lose fuel or spark.

If I recall correctly, the Bosch O2 sensors are the ones that are sometimes ok, all of the others are no good. You can also use a wideband O2 sensor and the REM to control open loop and closed loop.

I think that anyone concerned by the color of a vehicle called the Comanche isn't going to know what a Jeep Comanche is. I think you've got a far better chance of someone yelling at you that your vehicle burns gas and is therefore bad for the environment. And that more than likely won't happen either.

Vacuum should drop as throttle is increased. At WOT, you should have 0 vacuum If the engine was at operating temperature, I think you're problems are a combination of a vacuum leak somewhere and a bad O2 sensor.

Correct. Maybe cycle it 2 or three times. Just to make sure you’ve got fuel at the injectors.

What happens if you cycle the key to prime the fuel system a few times immediately after it does some of its bucking? I wonder if your fuel pump is on its way out.

You can also use a smoke machine to help find vacuum leaks.

Your REM should've come with a printout with information on ranges for all of those parameters. VAC is manifold vacuum, so that number will depend on how much you're stepping on the throttle. You should be closer to 15" Hg at idle though. RPM seems normal, maybe a little low. For vO2, reading less than 2.5V, your engine is running rich. For greater than 2.5V, it is running lean. This is normal if the engine wasn't up to temperature yet. EX RICH agrees with vO2 LP open means the engine is in open loop, which means its running rich. TPS should be reading 17% when closed, so you need to adjust that. IGN is your ignition timing. 12-13 seems perfect for base timing. LT is long term fuel trim. Reading less than 128 means the ECU is commanding less fuel on average than base to run. If its reading 128, its using the base fuel curve. Greater than 128 means the ECU is calling for more fuel than base. All that data taken from @NickInTimeFilms website: https://nickintimedesign.com/rem-gauge-readouts/

Great find!

That looks excellent!

It absolutely is. It was only found on the early years though.

I think these AMC I6s must just have a tendency to have quite a bit of blowby. My MJ engine has less than 150k on it and has blowby, my Eagle engine has an estimated 80k on it and has some blowby, and the previous engine in my Eagle had 110k on it and tons of blow by. Oddly enough, the first two I said have good compression and neither have any oil consumption issues.

Its pretty easy to drop the column down a little bit. I don't have a tilt column, so it isn't too bad, but its still scary. I just figure that when I break it, its an excuse to get the brushed silver one

I ran the cable for mine across the firewall and then inside the cab near the brake booster and fuse block area if I remember correctly. You don’t necessarily need it inside the cab with though. It might be nice to have it so you can walk around the engine compartment with it in your hand.