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89 MJ

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Everything posted by 89 MJ

  1. 89 MJ
    It is entirely possible that the wiring is bad, but I find it unlikely. There is probably a spot of corrosion somewhere on the ends of one of the wires preventing the starter for engaging. Make sure all of your grounds are good (engine to body ground and negative battery cable) and make sure the battery cable and the other wires going to the starter at the starter end is free of corrosion too.
  2. 89 MJ
    Double check all of your connections at the battery and at the starter. Make sure that you clean both ends of your battery cables, including the little one that goes to the starter. From my understanding (which is probably wrong, I have never used a battery tender), a battery tender is only used to maintain voltage or do minimal charging. Put the battery on a real battery charger and then try it again. To me, it sounds like there are problems with either the battery or the connections. The battery dying after three weeks is also a little bit suspicious. That shouldn't happen. This points to there either being a draw somewhere or the battery going bad. But one thing at a time, lets try to get the truck running first. Out of curiosity, how old is the battery?
  3. 89 MJ

    1JTMR65T3HT091559

    89 MJ replied to cody85's topic in 1987

    That looks like a really nice truck.
  4. 89 MJ
    Those are good reasons. I’m glad to hear the front is going to get narrower.
  5. 89 MJ
    Why the switch to different flares in the front?
  6. 89 MJ
    Send @krustyballer16 a pm and he’ll get you squared away.
  7. 89 MJ
    That looks so much better. I think purple would be really cool for long term paint.
  8. 89 MJ
    You are correct. If you’ve got a helper, you could just watch all of the steering linkage as they turn back and forth. If you’ve don’t have a helper, you could set your phone up to take a video and do the same.
  9. 89 MJ
    Shiny. Side note, I hate trying to take a decent picture of chrome.
  10. 89 MJ
    Still for sale or for sale again https://www.facebook.com/share/166xvgAstr/?mibextid=wwXIfr
  11. 89 MJ
    You might be able to look into a shipping company that will just hook onto it and tow it down for you. I would assume something like that exists.
  12. 89 MJ
    Was it a plow truck in a salt mine?
  13. 89 MJ
  14. 89 MJ
    This statement is so true. I have fought with leaks with both engines my Comanche has had forever. Oddly enough, neither of my 4.2s have ever leaked though (other than from the original plastic valve cover). Thankfully, my MJ just decided to stop leaking this year, knock on wood. And yes, I did check to make sure it still has oil in it
  15. 89 MJ
    The type of paint that you shoot really shouldn't make much of a difference. You can always cut and polish single stage or base-clear. Base clear will just hold up a lot longer. It is more expensive though too.
  16. 89 MJ
    I’ll also say don’t do either one. I like the PPG Omni paint, but then followed by a good PPG clear. If this is your first paint job, I’ll warn you that white isn’t very easy to paint because it’s hard to see where it has gone on. It’s hard to see the different coats being laid down.
  17. 89 MJ
    Plenty of toys then! That MJ should make for a good someday project. I really like that YJ! I'm a big fan of those.
  18. 89 MJ
    The tie rod could be a quick bolt in repair with some careful measuring. The ball joints would maybe (dare I even say probably) be just the regular stock replacement ones. But it could also turn into a big debacle really quick that leaves your MJ out of commission and in your way while you're waiting for parts to arrive.
  19. 89 MJ
    What's with the other Comanche in the background?
  20. 89 MJ
    You're going to love this answer. Its really hard to say with ball joints because each axle will need something different. And you don't always know until after you get it apart. You might need knurled ball joints or oversized or maybe regular ones would be fine. I doubt that you'll need adjustable ones though. A ball joint press will make your life much easier for removing these. For the tie rods, you'll need to look at what you've got now to see if they are right hand or left hand threads, but I would go with whatever Moog options match what you've got. You're going to need an alignment when you're done doing all of this work, so I would strongly consider taking it to a shop if I were you. Tell them you want quality parts and just pay them to do the work.
  21. 89 MJ
    Yes it is. When I put a console in my truck, I was surprised how relatively poor they fit from the factory.
  22. 89 MJ
    Here is a picture from someone who recently installed a 97+ console with the stock dash
  23. 89 MJ
    Not trying to hijack, just throwing my own experience out there. I know you’ve said this time and time again, so I was really skeptical to try the high flow water pump, but I was out of ideas. I’d done the Mishimoto rad, which helped a ton, the block was absolutely perfect in the coolant passages, when I got the engine, it already had a new water pump, and the thermostat was working fine. On long grades at 70+ mph (so I’m turning 2700+ rpm), the truck would still got hot. I swapped in a flowkooler pump and it only got warm once, but it turns out that was because I still had an air pocket in the cooling system. After changing to the flowkooler and changing nothing else, it’ll now sit at 195F running the same route that would make it hit 230 before. And I was trying to make it overheat, so I was running 75-80mph.
  24. 89 MJ
    Can you post a picture of the loose vacuum lines that you've got? Maybe a picture of the engine bay from the front left corner too? Just so we can look and see if anything looks out of place. On another note, to get it to run, you just need air, fuel, spark, and compression. Plug your vacuum leaks in the intake and carb, verify that you're getting those 4 things and it should run. Then we can focus on getting it running properly.
  25. 89 MJ
    Is that a 97-01 XJ console?
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