89 MJ

When you replaced your thermostat last, did the coolant passages look pretty corroded? Corrosion will make it harder for it to cool, your water pump might not flow enough, your lower rad hose might be getting sucked flat, or your rad might not be good enough, even though it’s new, you also might not be getting enough airflow and need a fan clutch. By design, you should need the electric fan unless the AC is on. Clearly that’s not what’s going on, but that’s the way it’s supposed to be. What is the temperature drop across the radiator?

Can you post a picture of the ones you are thinking it might be?

I don't think you are. For how capable this truck will be, you're into it dirt cheap.

Have you verified that the temp gauge in the dash is working correctly? I want to say that the electric fan is supposed to come on at 218, but I do not remember for certain. If it isn't kicking in, I would suspect either the relay is bad or the switch is bad. When you replaced the thermostat, how did the coolant look? If you didn't do one, it is probably worthwhile to flush the system out really good. Do you still have the closed loop cooling system or do you have the open loop system? Is the Jeep mostly stock or does it have mechanical modifications? With my answer to your question and the questions that I asked, I am assuming your truck is a Renix truck. You might want to add details about engine, trans, transfer case, and any mods to your signature.

That looks like a very nice one. Perfect for the Mrs.

This is going to be a very capable truck

So it didn't start before replacing the CPS and it still won't start after replacing the CPS? Have you pulled a spark plug to verify that there is in fact no spark?

Good to know

What is the benefit of the GM IAT? Just availability?

Hold off on ordering the track bar until you check out the axle side mount for the track bar. That hole becomes oval shaped pretty easily, so I’d check that first. I don’t have any suggestions on the sway bar other than measuring it.

Usually that is caused by one of two things. The track bar being bad or the mounts being ovaled or not having enough caster.

Sounds like your knock sensor might be failing. This is exactly what it’s supposed to prevent.

@krustyballer16 makes them. Check out his posts in the Vendors section.

I don’t think any of us are terribly social, that’s why we build Jeeps and hang out here Let’s hear more about the Jeep! What’s the story behind it and what have you done to it?

Some more progress has been made. The door jambs now have all of their bodywork done and the cab got another coat of epoxy primer. The underside of the cab was also bedlined with Raptor liner. There is a huge storage compartment under the floor that gets accessed in front of the rear seat.

Exactly. The lack of overdrive definitely hurts the fuel economy with the 3.54 gears and the fact that I drive it like a regular car doesn't help either. It gets driven in stop and go traffic and spends time idling, which kills the mileage too. I bet if I just went on a nice cruise in it, it would be in the 20s.

The idle smoothed out a lot, but all of the stuff I pulled off had sat for years and probably wasn't tuned perfectly. I'm not sure how much the MPGs improved because I didn't drive it on the road with the old stuff, but I get around 16 with the new stuff.

Sounds like your brake light switch either went bad or is out of adjustment.

Wildly unrelated, but those torque thrusts look great on that truck.

This very much reminds me of my Eagle. I ripped off the computer controlled garbage and slapped a 2150 and HEI dizzy in its place. Felt like it doubled the horsepower of that car.

Yes! I'll never be a customer of theirs just because of the moronic ads.

I've heard the same up north. Maybe they should focus more on their payouts than their stupid gecko commercials

Yeah, only looking at MJs the same model year is stupid. The 150 mile range makes some sense though, as that would be a 2.5 hour drive, which is fairly far and far enough for vehicles to have different values in the different places. That said, if they told you why your comps won't work and told you that it needs to be the same year and within 150 miles, I'd look for some comps that match their criteria. They should have no problem taking those then. FWIW, I have spent several years around bodyshops. I have been told by many many people that in terms of price, Progressive is cheap to insure vehicles. If something happens, they are one of the worst companies when it comes time to getting paid for damage. Now I'm sure a lot of that depends on the agent, but this has been a problem for as long as I can remember.

That's what I fully expect it to be. I have noticed that it has been feeling like it needs shocks, which is irritating because they're only 6 years old and Monroes, but that's new parts for you.