89 MJ

I don’t know the answer, but if it rides stiff, you can always pull a leaf. Likewise, if you want more lift, you can add a leaf to your stock spring pack and save money as long as your stock springs are in good shape.

I’ve got a standard one in my truck from rock auto. If you go with a high altitude CPS, it’ll advance your timing and give you a little bit more power.

Even has power windows. Very nice rig.

There were a few different sizes available. Probably partially depends on whether or not your truck had the skid plate package, and other options. I believe 225/75R15 was the largest. Probably various brands too. I’d expect Goodyear all terrains to be one of them.

In the act of watching it now

True story. My parents live in the middle of farm country. Never had mice in vehicles with dryer sheets.

Dryer sheets. About half a box per vehicle. Small handful under each seat and some more in the trunk for your Mustang. I also throw a few under the floor mats. Keeps the mice away and keeps it smelling nice.

I’d echo bringing it to a metal shop or a chrome shop and having them straighten it.

I was going through my camera roll and ran across these pictures. Every year, one of our neighbors does a get together with old cars and tractors. My brother took his J10, I took my tractor, and my parents took the MJ.

Grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain’t!

I went back in my photos to see if I could come up with any more reasons. Part of it is the frame has to be that low to fit under the cab. I would guess that the curve to get the top of the frame higher couldn’t be quicker because it wouldn’t have been as strong in the event of a rear end collision. Now why they didn’t just make the frame rail taller right at the rear of the cab, I don’t know, other than possible cost.

You can try welding a nut to the bolt head. Also try pounding a smaller size socket onto the bolt head. Is there room to drill the bolt out or cut the head of the bolt off?

Part of it is that the fuel filler neck passes through that cap.

Almost seems too nice for the price

I think it’s also worth saying that there is an aluminum spacer between the steering box and the unibody. The breaks a lot and when it does, it is known to make a clicking noise.

This really depends on how much you want to spend on a lift. With stock wheels, you can clear 31s with no lift. You could also run coil spacers (these ones are 2", I really wouldn't run more than that). You can also get adjustable spacers that replace your bump stops, most people run these ACOS. Otherwise, I think pretty much any spring company would have a 3" offering, just steer clear of Rough Country. For a rear lift, I'd recommend steering clear of longer shackles as that will alter your pinion angle, potentially creating vibrations. I did my own custom add-a-leaf in my MJ and would do the same again in a heartbeat. In fact, I did the exact same thing in my Eagle. It does stiffen up the rear some, but it didn't really make it ride worse in either case. Plus using them as a truck and towing and hauling, the stiffer springs are much better. For control arms, it seems like Core 4x4 is the way to go. In my opinion, at a 3" lift, you really should get an adjustable track bar too. Here is the Core 4x4 control arm and track bar kit. The Core stuff is pricey, but I've heard great things about them. I don't recall if I did new steering stuff or not. In my opinion (and experience), you really don't need longer brake lines, shocks, or upper control arms with a 3" lift. I have run out of suspension travel with the sway bar disconnected before I ran out of brake line or shock travel. I'll briefly lay out what I did: 3" front springs with tubular lower control arms. Probably stock replacement steering components Adjustable track bar Main leaf from an XJ lift spring pack with the eyes cut off added right below my MJ main leaf I really like this combination. Everything was used when I got it, and its been fine. Just replaced the control arm bushings, tie rod ends, track bar end, and wear parts such as those. I'm going to be honest, I don't even know what the lift is. I was told it was a 5" lift. The front springs came with 2" spacers, so I suspect it was a 3" spring lift with 2" spacers for the front. I wouldn't hesitate to go that same route again though. I'd recommend just look for someone parting out a lifted XJ or look for someone selling a beat up XJ trail rig and buy the whole thing and part it out. I think its worth saying that you really don't need a lift for mild trails. A properly driven mostly stock vehicle on all terrains would probably surprise you. That said, I can't blame you for wanting to lift it. They do look cool that way, but with a lift and larger tires comes the needs for better gears and your braking abilities won't be quite as good as stock.

Saw this on FaceSpace: I’m excited to see how yours turns out.

Happy to help. I sure wish the 23 gallons would fit the short beds.

The tank will hit the rear axle. This thread talks about it some. Bottom of page 1 and top of page 2 in particular.

Is your truck a short bed or long bed? The long beds came with a 16 and 23 gallon tank and the short beds came with the 18.5 gallon tank. You cannot interchange a short bed tank and a long bed tank.

He must be driving right now…

I started ready through this thread and thought this was funny. Funny how our minds change while working on these projects.

I’m looking forward to that walkaround video.

I don’t think it’s that, my email likes to just send the emails to spam I fix it every time, but it happens once a year or so for me