ghetdjc320

Here are some problem spots I recommend addressing for water intrusion. Just below the hvac blower, below the bulkhead connector, and into each rocker panel opening from the wheel well. Wheel wells and the underside or the front frame rails are now coated with raptor liner.

Good to know! Looks like all my repairs are with abs. The center console is always a trick to repair. Planning to use a Polyvance welder to do these repairs but needed to identify the right material. Thanks again!

Interesting

I see production dates but I can’t identify a code. I believe there are some different types of plastic used for interior trim but it may be mostly abs. The center console and pillar trim tends to be a bit more brittle and crack. The kick panels and inner door sill trim on the other hand feel almost like a nylon material.

Was wondering if anyone knows the specific types of plastic used for various interior panels. I will be doing some plastic welding and repairs to bring my interior back to perfect but will need to know the types used. Here are the components I’m looking to ID: Center console shell center console black insert b pillar trim a pillar trim dash bezel Tagging @Dzimm and @m2bandit as they both work heavily on interior plastic pieces.

That was a much cleaner look imo than the kc switch under the dash

The front end of the Jeep is now being body worked. Also disassembled the hvac unit to do a full restoration.

Front axle is finished. Body work to begin next. After a few hours of cleanup 13” rotors, massive dual piston calipers. It all fits a turbine wheel so long as you use a 1.25” spacer and are willing to grind down the bracket and caliper some. A 1.5” spacer will probably let you just slightly grind the bracket down. The calipers do look much better with the casting marks removed though. Calipers have been clear coated as well. I will say, it’s quite a bit of brake when you look through the turbine spokes This is about as “ultimate” HP30 as I’d built for this particular MJ. There is a bit of weakness at the inner C’s that was addressed with the gusseting. Lower control arm brackets are now greatly reinforced with skid protection. Passenger side upper control arm is significantly stronger due to the gusseting. Track bar mount has been replaced with a nice 3/16” bracket welded in place. The 3.55 gearing is as deep a gearing as one can go while still keeping the large pinion. For 31’s and the LS1 this will be a great combo.

$200 drop from last time! i can make the 5 caps I have look better than that for that price. Saw a set for $299. That was a tempting price but $799 is way too overpriced

Assuming you have adjustable uppers and lowers, just use the lowers and center the axle. Then use the uppers to set the caster angle.

Finished up one side today. The caliper and bracket do both require some flap disk work. You’ll need to take off about 1/8” of material off of the caliper and bracket. I’m using the late 99+ style unit bearings and only needed 1 washer on each caliper bracket to center them up. The washers were .10” on the dot. Test fit the turbines. I need some NOS center caps for these wheels. They are just too nice to clap on some old center caps. Also finished restoration on a rear prop valve. It’s going into a parts collection of top shelf parts for something in the future I suppose

I believe there was a member here that had made the cad drawings. Seems like dirt bound ended up with the blueprints but never moved forward with production iirc. Any reason you don’t wan to use the T&M plates? I have the front set and they have a decent fit.

Can’t tell for sure from the picture but it doesn’t look like they chewed through any copper correct? You could cut and splice the wiring. Pulling a pin out of that connector though is also not too difficult. I’d suggest some adhesive lined heat sink as well

The Dana 35 can be made to hold up well but there are specific mods that work and others that don’t. The nice thing about a Dana 35 is the low weight and the clearance you can get.

If your running 30” tires and have a non c clip Dana 35, I’d just keep it. It’s the best clearance you’ll have out of the above axle swap options not to mention the lightest in weight which does directly translate to handling. If you want a wider track, you can always invest on some small, quality wheel spacers. As for disk brakes, you could just do the ZJ brake swap but well adjusted drums have better stopping power than the ZJ/KJ/8.8 disks. Plus a better parking brake. Disks for sure have advantages but the stopping power of a 10” drum is not bad at all for these trucks with oem or slightly larger tires

Agreed. The outer circumference of the unit bearings needs to be shaved to fit the rotor but it’s not too bad. Several small parts you have to track down for the swap. It’s nice to use off the shelf components though. Easier to replace if needed while on the road.

Stock MJ is 60.5” KJ is 63” Ford 8.8 is 58.5. Other thing to consider as well is the actual size of the center section. The 8.8 has the largest center section out of the 3 and therefore the least amount of clearance.

I’ll be regearing my 8.25 to 3.55. Not pleased with that but because of the carrier break on the D30, V8 swap and running 31’s, 3.73’s just aren’t the right gears for me. Also touch to find a set of HP d30 3.73 gears. Easy to find a 3.55 set for the 8.25 though. Plus it will be nice to have all fresh bearings and seals on the pinion as well. Many KJ axles also use a driveshaft flange. Grab the adaptor from the donor driveshaft if possible. It’s an off the shelf spicer part as well. I’ll take a pic of the box if anyone needs it.

That’s them! Media blasted twice then buffed up with the flap disk and dremel. Coated with zinc based primer, cast iron engine paint and clear coat that’s used for wheels.

@Pete M is right. Just swapped an 8.25 from a KJ in. I have lots of pics in my build thread, page 8. Link is below. The rotors are 11 some inches. They easily clear all the 15” Jeep alloys. Double check the ratio when you get your 8.25. Mine was listed as a 3.55 and ended up being a 3.73.

Here is an idea of the size of the brakes. Honestly even puts the Wilwood la to shame. These are some huge brakes for an HP D30 with 31’s. But with all the extra power from the LS, steering and brakes are a priority.

Pic time. Been carrying these pre-90 knuckles all over the world for a future project. These will be running a big brake setup with dual piston calipers and 13” rotors. These barely fit under these turbines once clearancing the calipers slightly. Will be using these with my G2 1.25” wheel spacers which will match the back track exactly. All the reinforcements to the HP non disco housing are complete. Inner C’s, track bar, lower control arm skid and passenger side upper control arm reinforcement. I’ve used Artec inner C brackets in the past but the clearance with the coil springs is not good. These Barnes inner C brackets are a really nice design. In theory, they should actually provide better support for the inner c than traditional reinforcement designs. Took a pic of the off the shelf part number for the caliper bracket bolts you’ll need if doing this big brake swap with pre-90 D30 knuckles (YJ and XJ only, CJ 30’s aren’t compatible). If anyone needs part numbers for the whole swap let me know. Also clear coated the top sides of the ball joints so they don’t start rusting right away.

I had factory AC in my 91. I don’t see a traditional expansion valve in that pic. Are you referring to an orifice tube? If your installing new AC, why not just swap to all the components from an HO model XJ?