ParadiseMJ

what does this look like? It looks stock. IMHO perfectly non flashy. With an LED bulb in it, it gets your attention

What is a street light??

Those will work fine. I prefer caps with a dab of glue or RTV. Solid and cleaner looking IMHO (and not any more costly). YMMV

Spend a weekend or two doing the prep yourself. Remove, sand out rust, put a good rust converter on it, don't just cover. Sand, sand, sand. Remove and/or mask off stuf you don't want oversprayed. Then take it in.

...and the belt is tight enough?? The Krikit II spec I've heard is something like 165 on a new belt...and 185 on a used belt...and a used belt is considered used as soon as you install it and run it around the block. You may have just not RE-tightened it enough. My belt is always rock hard and haven't hurt any components. My belt spec is rock hard :thumbsup:

Be sure to get the same era TCU. The connectors should match, color wise. If your donor has a green plug, you need the green connector, if it has a tan plug/tan connector. The TCU and TPS have to jive. Wiring inside the later (newer) TCU won't match up with the 88 harness

It connects to the rear of the air box via a elongated leg u shaped hose. You may find the hose rummaging around in the back room at a NAPA store, if they'll let you. It may be a dealer only option. I found mine the first way, at NAPA. It's too tight of a radius to just use bulk hose.

When "de-greasing an engine (especially a 4.0 with an AW4) getting the TPS wet is a no-no. If the symptom started right after the hosing, the TPS is most likely fried. You can test it and or adjust it, but chances are it'll need to be replaced and adjusted. Seek instructions on Cruiser 54's site. And do check the in-line fuse under the passenger knee board. And do check the tranny fluid if it hasn't been done already. The level and the condition IS important.

The Falcons, They're hungry for it and it showed watching them rip Green Bay. For the Patriots it's considered a slam dunk...but only in Foxborogh IMHO

88' 4.0 AW4. 231J, d44, I have a frame mounted hitch (not factory, made by krustyballer) 1/4" plate with all three bolts. plus a mounting hole through the shackle mount, I'm confident up to about 3,000 (tongue wt. about 250 with trailer brakes). it'll tow fine, stop fine) I don't have a weight dist. hitch...but I wouldn't really consider towing much more even with one.

Good to go. Sounds plenty beefy enough You could get an adjustable drop bracket, but a bit pricey. Get the truck & trailer together and level and size it up. A 4" drop should do the trick, depends on the height of the trailer. The only other thing is...trailer brakes...that's a long trailer.

I'd be a little more concerned with the bumper mounts. How thick is the steel on the mounting bracket. Is it thoroughly welded through? The truck can handle it, but if the bumper mounts are just stock thickness I'd be leery about towing much more than a small utility trailer.

I used a HOT 3/4" paint scraper/putty knife...jammed it in, pulled it out, all four sides around, then I applied some torch heat to the main body of the shifter and pulled it right out. when I put it back together I used some adhesive RTV. Worked fine, took five minutes. No whacking.

That's a 97+ console for a 2 wd...not just cupholders...albeit incomplete. The body work is for what? Rust? I'd be crawling around under it and snapping some pics. So, it'd likely have a D44 with 3.07's, a Peugot BA-10. So if you were intending to convert it, you'll need all the 4 wd running gear aft of the engine + plus axles (unless you want to run 3.07's) The front flares look like newer ones, does it have the 97 header panel/fenders as well?? Can't see the front. How much??

The one pictured is the rear XJ door... This is the front like you would use for an MJ...jeez, more than twice as much, but still do-able. http://teamcherokee.com/door-panel-water-shield-cherokee-comanche-1984-1996/

I changed this one issue. I put the LED kit in my XJ and they were great...BUT...the high beams indicator bulb was too bright for me, I'd hit my high beams and got bright blue in my eyes. It bugged me so much I had to switch that one bulb out forr a regular bulb

I believe that 97 has an ASD (auto shut down) relay in the PDC that cuts off the fuel supply (pump) in case of an accident. Don't know which one but looking at a 97 FSM or even a Haynes/Chilton would point to the location, then you could swap it with a known good relay to confirm.

When I re did my XJ suspension in front I used a ZJ V8 tie rod/drag link, an RE adjustable track bar, longer & stronger Spicer TRE's and adjustable lower arms and stock ball joints. It feels a lot more "firm" than my MJ front, which is stock except for the ZJ tie rod/drag link combo (even though I know the drag link is the same as stock). Just the tie rod alone made the MJ feel like a different truck. As for the innards...didn't touch 'em.

I find J.C Whitney to be expensive, not only on stock parts, but just about everything aftermarket. Rock Auto or Morris gets my vote. So when you say rebuilding your axle, do you mean the innards or the suspension? Or both?

While you're under there figuring out your axles, take a tape measure with you. Measure the distance between nuts, measure the axle, measure the holes and size of the bolt. Measure the length of the u-bolts. You'll get an instant answer.

MOST!! :rotfl2: ...others...not so much...

You might want to look at a write up for an XJ, on an XJ forum. The A/C system is identical and much more common. Parts AND information. You can glean the "system" for an r134a compressor and condenser on an XJ in a junkyard but buy NEW hoses, expansion valve, drier/accumulator. As to the how, I only have a vague idea.

I have a third brake light from an XJ. I did have to cut a hole. It's not a cargo light. Unscrews to change a bulb. Looks perfectly stock. Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Nothing is wrong with that one, and I didn't think you were wasting my time. The FSM will, however, be able to answer most of the questions like, ":where does it go" etc. Faster for you. Us forum browsers (me anyway) feed off being able to answer some of the questions you've asked. The FSM can't give you some of the "tips" that some of these guys can though.

No, don't plug the holes. Why don't your just get a canister and do it right?? Did you ever buy an FSM? Get one for Xmas?