ParadiseMJ

I've seen them in the HELP! section at any parts store. They're listed as GM bolts...but they're the same size.

I just use a regular rubber washer...from the hardware store...never leaks. I change it out every time I see a drip...any drip.

There was a Chevy VEGA in town that looked like this. My bud has a Plymouth Valiant on a CJ frame...but doesn't run it. Just yard décor.

When I first got my MJ it had been sitting in a barn for a couple years so I just assumed the radiator was going to be junk. I got a "three row" all metal rad, from Radiator Barn in a lifetime warranty...the kind where they said they'd replace it if I had any trouble with it, including the paper warranty. Fast forward to two years later...the thing leaked, clogged, the filling throat cracked. I called Radiator Barn...whaddya know, they were out of business. So I bought a Spectra radiator, aluminum with plastic tanks and one row because I needed a radiator NOW. I've had that radiator for four years...not a single leak, no cracks and NO overheating...ever. Never over 210, haven't used any coolant didn't do anything fancy to it other than to convert to open cooling way back when I bought the Jeep. So either spend $400 on a "performance" radiator or just change out radiators as a maintenance item every 100K miles or so.

To be realistic, remember ... trying to stay under $1000. A decent adjustable track bar = 300+/- Adjustable LCA's and/or drop brackets (or both)=250-400 Didn't include tires, but 31's would look a little weird at 5"...so if include bigger tires...you're over budget with just those few things and this doesn't include any shop labor, so you'll be doing all of it yourself. This is one of the reasons (OK the main reason) I'm staying close to stock. Time, money, and energy. I'm retiring this summer= more time. I'm retiring this summer = more money

SOA, adjustable trac bar, adjustable LCA's and WJ uppers. You'll lift it 5". An SUA lift would still leave you with those lame stock plate and shock mount which, to raise the clearance considerably you'd need much bigger tires (every inch of tire size lift only gains 1/2" of clearance)

But I don't see a CC servo...on the OP picture...or am I missing something.

swb,_4.0,____aw4,__________np231,___d44= 41.25" The driveline shop in town must have had this, because when I swapped the AW4 into my SWB - 4.0 - BA-10 - NP 231 - D44 he shortened the shaft 1" (and painted it too ).

That's great. After reading this I removed my IAC on Saturday, when I was tinkering, mostly out of curiosity. It had some stuff on it that I cleaned off and scuffed it with some fine sandpaper. It immediately idled more smoothly and went from an chronically wonky 500-700 RPM. Now it's rock solid at 750.

I just swapped my coil out with an identical one that was "newer". I knew about the electrical connections, but, there is a male plug on both units that looks like there should be a wire there. Just a single one, under the other two plugs. Am I missing something or is that extraneous for something else? Thanks

If it's the IAC, I'm pretty sure the IAC can't be "one off". More likely dirty. Take it out, clean it with carb cleaner...be gentle with it when handling the pintle...(tip)... so's not to damage it.

I bought this on ebay a while ago...a long while. It's not stock, but it's inconspicuous. It wasn't expensive, it fits in the "coin holder" just behind the shifter, right of the t-case shifter. It comes all wired up and ready. I put a 30amp circuit breaker to the power line through a 30 amp relay. Then to the lights I'm using...or not. The only thing besides supplying power and ground is cutting out the "coin holder" (required). It comes out very clean. The LED's are not too bright. If I hold my hand over it the "beams" of LED light shine straight up so They're bright but definitely not obnoxious at all P.S. the switches, bezel and wiring inside the panel are included. I like torx heads. LOL

Jeep Forum and NAXJA both have MJ forums if you haven't gone there yet. If so, sorry, I didn't catch that. I don't know squat about Tapatalk. I don't do forums on my phone.

Don't "scuff" too aggressively. Use a very fine sandpaper or you'll tear up the plastic. I have used Fusion...for plastic, and it held up really well (5+ years and still jet black. Now comes in many different colors, finishes and textures.

That's for sure. My silverstars were pretty dim before, even on high beams I rarely got flashed. Now oncoming cars flash me with my low beams on. I made my own harness with good relays, all 10 ga. wire and I know it's all solid solders, not questionable connectors.

Option 1 screws into the tranny Option 2 clicks into option 1

Check/adjust the striker a bit.

If it was me, a couple 4" stacks to open up the exhaust...with the flappers on top.

I've been "out of commission" for about the last 6 mos. due to some shoulder surgery and some wrist surgery. Haven't been able to do any work on the truck, but I'm on the mend and itching to take care of some issues. My AW4 transmission works great, shifts through the gears, downshifts through the gears. Kickdown works fine too. My problem is it will not shift from D to 3 manually or from 3 to 1-2 manually. Like I said, I haven't been able to climb under and look at the adjustment. The last thing I did under there was to adjust the transfer case linkage when I popped one of those little green bushings out of the TC shift arm. Would there be any other reason the gears wouldn't shift up or down manually if they were working otherwise (automatically).

The AW4 tranny I swapped in to my truck had a nice flexible clean cover on the CPS (the whole tranny was very clean). So nice and new that it was likely a "new" one bought aftermarket or NOS. Anyhoo, I've dropped several bolts into the bell housing and they've always ended up about 3" (the reasonable length of my chubby fingers) back of the plate. Some after I moved the torque converter a tad with a wrench on the HB. They fell right out. Since then I pack the 11mm socket with some bearing grease. Haven't dropped one since.

There's not much there to "rebuild"

So, IIRC that is a circuit breaker and should reset if it clicks off. I've had a similar ongoing problem with this. The fuse slots were opened too wide for the thing to hold tight (likely the fuse box itself is compromised) and keep the CB set. I used a pick to narrow the gap there and it was fine after that. But it could really shake around in there, so that even if the CB was good, the connection was bad.

I have the 4 piece slider. doesn't leak, doesn't shake, has the metal latch. I doubt it's factory. I had a full size F-150 with a solid window that I put a slider in. I'd be unhappy if I did not have a slider. Just sayin'

The only reason I'd go SOA is the shock mounts and pack running so low to the ground bugs the hell out of me. I'd be happier just slimming it ^up. For me, I like the road manners of my 3.5" SUA lift and 30" tires. I know doing an SOA is a fairly straight job, but to me, it's not worth spending the extra $$ getting all the front end parts. I learned on my first XJ after I lifted, locked and chopped it up, when I was done I hated it. I hated it so much I gave it to my son who breaks stuff offroading and fixes it monthly. IMHO, unless you use it regularly for wheeling a mild lift and good tires makes for a 200% better ride.

The Renix ECU is a pretty simple affair...but "rebuilding" it, for me, would be folly. If you really think your ECU is what is causing your problem, swap it out with another from a junkyard. Barring that, I'd get out a DVM and start checking circuits that affect fuel, spark, the coil, your grounds etc. In my experience it's pretty dang scarce that the ECU is the actual problem.