ParadiseMJ

There are a few sensors that do not like water at all. Most importantly the TPS (throttle position sensor). When they get wet the effects can be wonky shifting that SEEMS like slipping, it can be temporary or permanent...like require replacement. If the TPS got soaked AND you suddenly need a new transmission, or you're having transmission issues out of the blue, it's likely that. You can let it dry out...thoroughly...and then try it. If it tests badly...replace it. You can test it with a regular voltmeter - http://comancheclub.com/topic/31486-renix-tps-testing-the-right-way/?hl=tps+testing I'd get a second opinion...and not from any transmission company that starts with Aa...!!

Check the wear pattern on the pads/rotor. My rotors were old and likely warped, the pads suffered for it. New front brakes, rotors, calipers. Perfect.

Mine was just falling out. Had to tweak the contacts. Now that summer is here (it rarely rains here in the summer), it works great. OP, do you think yours is broken/blown? Why do you want it out?

I wish I had my truck here at work to look at that...maybe someone can go outside and check theirs out. Not a common leak spot IIRC. Hornbrod is likely on the right track...too much fluid?!

I would...and did...replace the valve guide seals. Easy, cheap, won't hurt a thing.

A flex plate is thin, <<1/8". Having a spacer/washer diffuses the force of the mounting points so the flexplate doesn't over stress and crack around the bolt holes. A flywheel is thick cast iron, you could probably hold it on with 3 mounting bolts, securely, but don't. It does not need anything to balance the torque between bolt holes. Also, the flexplate bolts are going to be shorter than flywheel bolts. Different animal. If you're going from auto to manual you'll be using a flywheel. If you're going auto to auto, keep the washer and use it on a flexplate. New flexplates don't come with the washer, flywheels don't need a washer.

Well, you don't have to prove it to me...I'll take your word for it. :thumbsup: Seems like a pain though. Cheers!

Only if someone changed the seat mount. I have not seen one that was put together with bolts from the factory and I've taken out/replaced 20 or so seats. The brackets are attached to the sliders with rivets...and to the OP, be careful, slow and steady taking out the nuts, as they get corroded and rusty and are relatively small (break easy).

We need fresh turkey turds...too many variations above. Unless you make a wrap out of it...the perfect camo job.

Charcoal canister is suppose to attach to the vent hose(s) from the fuel tank. The fumes from the tank are sucked in to the intake manifold and re-burned. With it disconnected you may notice gas/fuel smell. The vents on top of the tank should be in good shape (plastic nipples) and have a hose to each, then the two rubber hoses T together to one hose, then to a short steel hose that runs up the firewall, then to another rubber hose to the charcoal canister. The larger hose on the canister runs to the intake manifold just aft of the throttle body. The valve cover hose should have a rubber grommet in the hole and there should be a small black hose with a white or tan "metered orifice" that also runs to the intake. The hoses and grommets that connect all that together are sold in two sets. One for the front end of the engine and one for the rear half of the engine. Doesn't say where you're living, but if it's California, you will fail smog without these hoses attached (and any other states that require emission testing). Also, in my humble opinion, you should fix the vacuum hoses throughout your engine compartment. Vacuum runs a lot of things in these Jeeps and you might just miss them.

Thanks. Thought I'd follow it up. The plastic parts broke and I could only find about a third of what was left. I thought I'd bolt it in straight...BUT...my friendly neighborhood NAPA outlet crossed my mind. In the bottom row of the HELP section, right next to the front door, there they were. I matched the broken third with one of the 6 parts. Perfect fit. HELP p/n 42185 "Headlamp Adjusting Screws", two to a pack, $4.99 (EDIT: FYI on the back of the package under applications it says "Ford 1986-78") That was too easy! :doh:

Does anyone know where I can get the plastic doo-dad headlight adjuster with the captive nut. Mine broke in half while replacing a headlight...a simple job...now a PITA. Are they vehicle specific? seems like they'd be pretty universal since every one I've ever seen looks the same/works the same. TIA

When I installed the AW4 for the first time in my Jeep, I did not put any grease in the pilot bearing hole. A few years later I replaced the old torque converter. I did fill the hole with grease the second time, just because it seemed like a good idea. The life of the torque converter will far outlast any kind of grease/lube etc. you'll put in there. Neither time have I used a pilot bearing. I removed it form the crank because I was swapping manual for auto and there was no room for a pilot bearing. It didn't call for one as far as I could tell.

You just revived it. B) I like onlyinajeep's solution. Looks clean and out of the way...except for the extra long bolt. I despise the stock lower shock mount on MJ's. Looking to change mine, but not going SOA. :popcorn:

I took the gear/bracket out of my old transfer case, not a transmission. I don't know if there is a difference. You'll need a longer cable...one that reaches the transfer case.

I have a 94 NP231 with a cable speedo in my 88 MJ. I just took the gear and assembly out of my old t-case and clocked it properly, by the numbers, and hooked my 88 cable to it (by accident actually, I didn't even know any better) and it works fine.

^^^^ Yup!

It's pack it in. Sincerely, Charles Peck :thumbsup: EDIT: I'm sure you've heard this, but IMHO find a different transmission. I screwed with my BA-10 twice and finally scrapped it because of having to drop the thing twice and have something else (unrelated to the first issue) go wrong with it, both time within about 6 months.

The round ball has one chamber. The football shaped ball has two chambers, separated from each other by a "wall" in the middle. Thus the vac ports on either end. I don't know what the thinking was when they moved to the football shaped one. I would think that one side was dedicated to cruise and the other to HVAC.

Where does the fuel pump ground if you're not running a bed...I'd say that the ground is the problem. If the "shared" ground for the fuel pump and taillights is disconnected, then neither should work. If you have trailer wiring too, there is a common wiring light failure area. So, this truck runs?

PDT - Pretty Dang Tight on a Krikit II tension gauge...right at 165...and an extra turn for luck. No gauge, it should be tight enough so that it's difficult to twist the belt 90 degrees with your finger and thumb. Bounce a quarter off it etc. but...have you checked the P/S fluid level? Is it low, bubbly, foamy, etc. Is the pump leaking? Are any of the lines leaking? My truck had tranny fluid in the P/S pump...that is, tranny fluid and water (about 1/2 and 1/2). Looked like a strawberry milkshake. I flushed the whole system with fresh P/S fluid. I drove it for a coupla months like that, then replaced the pump. Start the truck and open the steering pump...see what you see. It should not be dark, milky or foamy. Replacing the pump is not a hard job, or expensive. Just make sure you get a pulley puller, mark/measure where the pulley sits in the shaft for when you you press it back on. FWIW...use fresh P/S fluid to refill.

I think it's a weird system too. One little broken o-ring and you're screwed. I carry extra O-rings just for the "quik disconnects". I did away with the disconnects for my transmission lines and just went with cutting the steel line, and a compression fitting on the steel end and a hose barb on the other. Never leaks. Someday I'll do the same with the fuel lines, although the fuel pressure is considerably higher than the tranny fluid pressure. But just to be able to "un-bolt" the fuel lines and replace them with regular fuel line would be nice. I know that several guys have done that, but I just replaced the clips and O-rings last summer and they're holding tight. Glad to know you got it done.

Those are not captive...they do come out. If you see ring and spacer in there, and you plan on putting another ring, spacer, ring in there it won't work. They do get shoved all the way up when you push the male end in...just one set of ring, spacer, ring, Anything more won't fit, and it won't seal. You might want to look up there again and see what you can pry out with a dental pick or similar tool (like a paint can opener)

Get a little capful of gas, soak the O-rings in it for a few minutes. If the plastic clip is still intact (on the male end), and hopefully the spacer...which you NEED, slide one o-ring on the male end, Slide the spacer right behind it. Then slide the second o-ring behind that. I've always put some Vaseline on the newly installed o-ring, spacer, o-ring assembly. Not a lot, just enough to cover. Then, shine a flash light in to the female end (the fuel line) and make sure there isn't an old o-ring stuck in there or any dirt, debris, particles etc. You can use a pick or some tweezers to remove stuff if you find anything...then slide the female end on and push firmly until it *clicks*. Make sure it clicks and the ears on the plastic part spread. Just to re-cap, ring, spacer, ring on male end with some Vaseline, push into female end.

^^^ This. Yes you can buy O-rings at any hardware store, auto Zone, CVS or even Walgreens. These O-rings are specific. You COULD engineer your own set up but here's how it goes: The fuel lines are sealed with a pair of O-rings AND a plastic spacer (of the same size). It is written somewhere that you need to change the O-rings every time you undo to fuel lines. The o-ring type set-up is also used on the tranny disconnects, but the tranny is a 3/8" line and the fuel is a 5/16" so they're not interchangeable. You CAN go to Auto Zone and get the plastic clips and the O-rings...but not the spacer...and you need the spacer. Then you' have to size up the clips and notice that they don't have them for Jeep...they have them for Ford, Chevy and Chrysler...but not Jeep. So, it would be really a lot easier and probably cheaper in the long run to just buy the connector parts as mentioned above. Do NOT drive it until you fix it. You'll spew fuel all over your engine. Then you can write back here to figure out how they go on. Believe me, the first time I did this...I learned a lot :rolleyes: