ParadiseMJ

If you had one crusty, gooey light socket...you likely have more. I did all my sockets (lots of rust and corrosion) and disconnected and re-wired my trailer light mess when I was re-assembling my truck and all the lights are now surpisingly bright, much brighter than my XJ ever was. You can clean out the old sockets with a dremel type tool or just replace the sockets altogether. Now that I also have the headlight harness upgrade all my lights are putting out very bright lighting. Next projects are eliminating the C101 and replacing the fuse box. I know those are the reasons that my gauges are wonky and my radio is intermittent.

Last time I was out on a trail I had 4L engaged. I got back on a nice dirt/gravel road and took it out of 4x4...I thought. Then I got back to the camp and had to flip a U to back in to my spot. When I did that it did the wheel hop thing. So I knew it was still in 4x4. So I climbed underneath and saw the linkage adjusting nut was loose and the shaft was inoperable. I just moved the t-case lever all the way FORWARD and disengaged the t-case. My CAD is locked over already. Anyhoo, if you can get under there and manually push the t-case position lever forward (I used some channel locks) and headed on down the highway...

...and then get a smaller keychain!!

I have a 7 curved blade in my 88 that I got from a yard. It plugged right in, fits perfect. works great. I think it ran me $15.

Suck on that vac line off the servo that runs the flap. If it moves, it works, IF you have the bi-metal sensor hooked up at the back of the original airbox. When the engine warms up the flap opens/closes and gives you non-tempered air (aka the warm/hot air from the manifold is cut off)

It's the airbox equipped with the "thermostatic" air filter rig. The smog folks here in CA are iffy about this. Some allow an approved air intake instead of this, but they (approved in CA) are rare. I bought an approved 50 state tube with a K & N cone filter, but it said (on the approval rating sheet) that it was for a Renix 87 - 90 Cherokee XJ. I smogged it when it was on my XJ and it was fine. Then I put it one on my MJ (same 4.0, same entire set-up) and they flunked me because the paperwork did not include MJ, just XJ. I just replaced it with the stock box and went back and passed.

Unless you're 5'5" you won't like them. I'm about 5-11 and 185, I felt like I was stuffed in to the drivers seat. Even with the seat reclined I had to skooch down to look out the windshield, and the rear view mirror was about 6-8" from my face. Not acceptable for me. Not recommended for a full grown person. No kidding. Now on the kidding side...I looked like Lurch driving a kiddie car.

I'm glad to know there is some modicum of "proof" of the beef feel other than my own feeling.

Other than the fact that a SUA is a serious detriment to ground clearance (for me anyway) the MJ is much more nimble than the XJ. Especially with a D44 and an LSD. With 3" of lift and 31's I can go anywhere I want. Note: I don't want to go everywhere. I do a lot of snowy road driving and it can easily handle a foot of snow. I also like that set-up for highway manners.

I put a ZJ V-8 tie rod on my MJ. Seemed to really beef up the steering, made it "feel" stronger. I thought I was imagining it until I put one on my son's XJ just because I was doing some engine work on it and I had an extra rod in my shop. When I gave it back to him he said "...and thanks for fixing the steering". Coincidence? I dunno!

As far as water on the pass. floor, I had tried to seal around the windshield, the cowl before with no luck. My problem was the inner door seal strip...it's about 12-18" long and is glued to the body side of the door opening. Whenever the truck was facing down hill, water would run down the gutter, into the door crack and (since the rubber was all warped up and there were gaps) right through the seal, and come out at the bottom of the door panel on to the floor. When the truck was parked facing UP hill, no leak at all. I replaced the rubber piece, no more leaking...until the other side started doing the same thing a year later. so I just replaced that rubber piece and fixed the problem. P.S. I had pictures, but they (along with appx.200 others) were locked up on F**king Foto F**ket .

Is that legal in Washington? I might let my kids/grandkids ride in the back around a campground or down to the corner store (illegally). Other than that, all people ride up front, or go in another vehicle. Other than that, the OP needs to follow this advice ^^^. It's good advice.

Two things about the overheat problem: No t-stat WILL first look like its' running cooler and then overheat. A 180 t-stat will not lower or control the operating temp. The t-stat spec only controls the minimum temp at which it opens, it does not close at any max temp. If the radiator is original, it's most likely the radiator, in my experience. Coolant can flow right through a bad radiator and the tubes can still be clogged/inefficient.

I know you said all Renix sensors, but if it is a 93 engine, how is the TPS mounted? On the front or on the side? Is it a 93 TPS?

Not exactly the same, but I found clips that work at ACE hardware in the screw, bolt, body clip department. $1.20 each

Got a picture. Are you sure it's not the knock sensor.

I'm very happy to know that mine looks just like this picture. My old rod was toast, bent on one end and broken on the other. I also found all the stuff I needed at ACE...ball joints and all. :brows:

Do you feather the clutch more in reverse? Backing up or down a hill?

I'd say as far as OPTIONS you have 4: In the bed - a 33" will take up around 9 square feet of a small bed. SWB = 24 sq. ft. LWB 28 sq. ft.would be reduced to 15 sq. ft or 18 sq ft. respectively. On the roof - a 33" will hang 2" over front and rear of the top of your cab AND the drag will seriously effect your on-road mileage. So you'd need a short (about 36" basket) which will hang over front and rear of your cab by 3.5" - you'd need a gutter mount basket for the weight. That will effect your on-road mileage even more. On a roll bar - either 4runner style or upright on the side. On the side, the bed height is 16" so you'll have 17" sticking up out of your bed. But hey, everyone will be able to see most of your big tire. On the diagonal facing forward on a bracket between the roll bar struts it'll take up even more room in your bed. Not to mention your rear view would be blocked completely. Under the bed - even though you don't want it there, it can be squeezed in, though it'll hang down considering it's appx. 12" wide, BUT, it won't take up any room in your bed, won't cause any drag, and it won't look weird. Anything else would look dorky IMHO. My 31"x10.5" is under the bed, You can barely see it and it fit in there with no problem. A little persuasion would get that 33" up in there...maybe a little deflating even, NOTE: if you do put it under the bed, secure it with ratchet straps for safety's sake. You might also be able to find a thinner 33" tire just to use as a spare to get you back to town to aid in fitting without hanging down. Disclaimer: I'm just offering the options as I see them...the commentary is purely my own opinion and should not be taken personally...good luck finding your solution.

Yes it is...people born in 1986 are 31 now. I'd say SUV's are the sedans, trucks are the "sports cars". Jeeps are still Jeeps.

DesertRat...How much did you spend on the lift set up you bought? Sierra...where are you...in the Sierra? CA?

All the LED's worked great in my cluster and gauges...except the "brights" indicator. It was too dam bright in my face on dark roads. I took it out and replaced it with a regular bulb.

Oh, sorry, mounted the trans temp gauge in-line on the steel exit line with a brass T (single wire sender grounds on the line). If the temp falls drastically it tells me if I have a severe leak or the pump isn't pumping too!

The cooler is mounted in front of the aux fan, I don't have functioning A/C (it's on my list though). The MJ is not my DD. I don't drive it unless I'm going to the mountains, skiing, camping on days off/weekends. I have a 40 mile commute every day so I drive a little ricer commuter car, the MJ doesn't make 35 mpg, strictly financial. I'm not sure if the cooler changed the coolant temp or if not having 250F tranny fluid coursing through the radiator did it. I haven't overheated, or even gotten over 210 towing a boat or wheeling it but then everything runs cooler since I changed the routing of the trans fluid and installed the cooler. Normal temps. single row OEM radiator. EDIT: but I sure like the idea of mounting the cooler lower so it doesn't interfere with cooling the condenser (when I finally fix that A/C)

Yes, I agree with this too. My tranny used to get HOT when I was towing a big grade or driving steep and slow (not towing). Since the radiator link helps to warm the tranny fluid when ambient temps are low - freezing. It continues to ADD heat to the radiator when tranny temps start going up. I removed the hoses sending tranny fluid through the radiator and added a 11x11 tranny fluid cooler...and a trans temp gauge. My trans temps still get warmer when towing or slow going but only around 180...and on the highway trans temps are under 150 consistently, even in 100+ weather.