ParadiseMJ

Actually regular water is a better cooler than anti-freeze, so I'd mix it 70/30 water/antifreeze for summer and some water wetter..might want to richen it up in the winter...if it freezes a lot in LA/SD or for heading to the mountains. I wouldn't run it without. I have LeBaron vents on both rigs...MJ & XJ...with fabbed drip pans that work well in the winter and even though it almost never rains here in the summer, they still allow a lot of heat out the hood. But if I had it to do over I'd probably raise the back of hood as Don suggests. ...and a couple questions...Do you have a manual or AW4? and if so do you have a big tranny cooler or just the factory two tube one.

I've never heard of anyone ordering this before. Well, except me when I had ruled out every other "water on floor" issue. I had the very same issue on both doors of both Jeeps. The MJ I was able to remove the slightly warped strips and straighten them out, and use some silicon to seal them up...with the XJ I bought new because they were trashed.

https://www.autopartsway.com/part.cfm?83502745/c1y&g=1&gclid=eaiaiqobchmiul7n1j2v1qivwkwnch0gtacweaqyayabegjqppd-bwe Here's a picture of the part(s). The beige color "clip" slides over the fuel line until it clicks over the shoulder on the line. Then one o-ring slides on the line, then the spacer, then the other o-ring, then the whole assembly slides into the female end. The white part of the pictured part, is just packaging. There are two O-rings and a like size hard plastic spacer. You need the O-rings AND the spacer to properly compress the seal with the disconnect system. I only use the term "clip" for lack of a better word. It "clips" on, and when you successfully attach it, it "clicks" in. so it's really a clicking clip. :thumbsup: You'll also want to look inside the female end of the fuel line to make sure there aren't any old o-rings or spacer up in there before you try to put it together. If all you have is the naked fuel line with no plastic piece (aka clip), you'll need to source that or a similar "clip". But I've tried that with minimal success, so I just had to bite the bullet and buy the correct part. I've never seen the whole part sold in any auto parts store, and the clerks look at me like I'm nuts when I've asked for them. So online is the way to go. Alternately, you could DIY it by replacing/eliminating the whole disconnect system and just use tubing and compression fittings.

I have ZJ V8 tie rods on both my XJ and MJ. It is a nice upgrade. More solid feel. Draglink is AFAIK the same for both ZJ and XJ.

Yes. I had a 5 speed that already had a two connector TPS, when I swapped the AW4 into it, I kept the TPS and still working fine. Look on cruiser54's site to test and adjust your TPS, you'll need a volt meter. Be careful of the small screws on the TPS, they're small...and loseable. You needn't remove them to adjust, just loosen.

Poor connections, corroded cables, poor ground to block. All your connections need to be shiny & bright & tight. Also, the cables may look OK, but if they're old, they could be internally corroded. Squeeze the cables, see if they sound/feel crunchy. Check the block ground, to see if it's clean and tight too...at the block. How old is the starter? Are all the starter connections bright and tight, especially the little green wire.

Yes, plug that line OR put a plug/cap on the intake manifold itself and delete the line until you have a need for it. FYI, the lack of vacuum on the passenger side will make you HEATER blow through the defrost vents only...by default, so it's not just the A/C. The line(s) coming out of the firewall next to the heater fan housing operate your heater vent/blend doors and they run off that vacuum (pink or light colored one is for the heater valve, black one operates the blend doors). If all that stuff is ripped out, or you don't care if it blow thru defrost only, plug them all and come back to them.

All the vacuum lines on the passenger side use vacuum for HVAC, Cruise and Vac controlled CAD axle. They have almost zero to do with the running of the truck or engine performance. If you don't have a vac reservoir your heater and A/C (if equipped) will just blow out the defrost. Your Cruise (if equipped) won't work properly if at all. If you have a CAD axle, it won't work properly either. The only line you need to worry about affecting the engine would be the large line that comes off the intake manifold and crosses over behind your engine to supply the reservoir with vacuum (the SOURCE line). The vacuum on the driver side does affect the engine. But lack of a reservoir will not affect the engine unless that SOURCE line is hanging loose, either not attached to anything or just not plugged and sucking air. Usually it'll cause a higher than normal idle. What you're describing is more attributable to a TPS if you're driving a pre-90 (Renix) rig. The TPS on Renix models is adjustable, and needs to be adjusted. Have you adjusted your throttle valve cable? If it's a fuel delivery problem, it can be lack of vacuum to your fuel pressure regulator...the little round can at the front of your fuel rail...there needs to be a short vac line attached to that too. And then, there's Gene's question. The cat will definitely cause the engine to flat out at a certian load. Like it hits 2500 RPM going up a hill, and you won't be able to get it to rev any further...and it'll drive like crap. Unless I missed it, I don't see any info about your truck. Answering questions is a WHOLE lot easier if we know, the year, the engine etc. Otherwise we're all just guessing.

If it was me, and I'm cheap, I'd have a new one made, or source an XJ shaft from a JY and have a "real" drive line shop spiff and customize it for you. Yokes, balanced, right length. I had a DL shop shorten mine, new axle end yoke and U-joint. They even painted it...LOL and it cost me around $80. Well worth it.

My truck sat in a barn with the bed off, tank out, interior stripped and wiring a mess for 8 years. Took me 5 gallons of fresh gas, 6 qts of oil, a weekend, a battery, and a CPS. Fired up Sunday afternoon. 3 years is really not much with a 4.0L unless it was neglected before that. Start with tugalos idea and then go here: www.cruiser54.com

In the RockAuto catalog for both torque converters they carry, both are DACCO, both are remans from 1988 to 1998 and are the same TC. AFAIK there are in fact two different converters...one for OD lock-up, and one "not" listed as OD lock-up. So the basic DACO re-man crosses all those years for the AW4. However, having bought a DACCO from them four years ago I would not recommend a DACCO re-man. Mine failed on me in less than three years (<20K miles). It made a grinding, squeal sound a couple times...at low speeds, around town, and then one day just gave up on me in a parking lot. I took the TC to a local independent tranny shop (not Aamco) and he told me DACCO's were junk, just sayin'. So I bought a new torque converter for around $250 from a specialty shop that builds TC's. Much better from the get go. P.S. What's your gearing now, what are you shooting for as far as gearing?

If it has the AW4 TPS, it only needs one side of it. Don't exactly know how it wires in but you shouldn't need to plug in the NSS side. The manual TPS is crazy expensive. I also don't exactly remember how , or why the manual would even need the TPS...or the TCU either, but my 5 speed DID have a TCU and a TPS (but only one side was used) in it when I ripped it all out and put in the AW4 harness. If you're replacing the ECU, see if you can get a 90 ECU from a Jeep with a 5 speed. It's 89 or 90 years that will give the engine a tad more HP...extra poop...since you're replacing it anyway. Click this: >>> http://comancheclub.com/topic/42705-more-power-form-renix-87-and-88/

Or get a Suzuki Samurai

A 2wd transmission will not work with a 4wd transfer case. The tranny and the engine MIGHT bolt up, but you won't be able to put a transfer case on the end of a 2wd tranny. You need a 4wd tranny. End of story.

I don't mean to dis on your wrenching skills but you did something wrong (as we all have). It's not the CPS's problem, it's obviously being rubbed by the flywheel (or ?), until it gets so far eroded that it breaks. What kind of sound does this make when it does work? Does it make a different sound when you push in the clutch? Omega rural's question, is the CPS pushed too far in? To one side or the other? It doesn't look like it can move in/out but I know it can move side to side.

How old is your radiator? Coolant in the tote looks nasty. Huh? A closed system cap and open system cap can't really be mistaken. A closed system has a thick plastic cap, from a Jeep or a Volvo "pressure tank", they look nothing alike, and one won't fit the other. You need a regular 16# cap. Not a super cheap cap either. Stant was a good brand but have heard different lately, so maybe a dealer cap. There is a poppet valve on some thermostats, never heard of one on a cap. And get a solid cap, not one with a pressure lever.

If you're draining, just pull the bottom hose off the radiator with a big basin/bowl. The petcocks on these things are fragile...and useless IMHO

If you have to...or are going to change out the rollover valves...pull the old ones out carefully so they don't separate the rubber/plastic and metal. Also, when installing the new ones, orient them they way you want the nipples facing, put some Vaseline or oil in the grommet and just poke it in. If you put them in and then want to pull them out again, the metal part can still come apart and half can drop into the tank. Witness, me: I still have a bottom half floating around in my tank from 6 years ago.

Usually, on every older car or truck I've ever had, if the dash lights are out, I go check the tails. If both dash and tails are out it's the fuse. I thought it was a GM thing, but I guess most car makers incorporate the two circuits so you'll know you have a problem with the running lights.

OK, so if they're saying the tank won't hold pressure, it has nothing to do with the gas cap. It has to do with the lines that lead from the top vents (aka rollover valves) on the top of the tank, then the line that runs from the rollovers to the charcoal canister. The vac line that runs from the tank to the canister is broken, chafed, disconnected etc. They pressurize the tank itself (with their own cap adapter) to make sure that those two rollover lines or the tank valves are all continuous. It takes laying on the ground under the Jeep to trace those tank-canister lines and some blind feeling around. But it's fixable in a short afternoon. To find out if your rollover valves OR the lines are broken, you need to 1.) reach up to the top of the tank and feel that they are attached (the valve nipples are plastic and can degenerate, rot, break). 2.) the two lines come together in a T, make sure they're connected there into 1 (one) line. Then 3.) follow that line towards the firewall where it should connect to a steel line that runs about 10" up the firewall...then it turns into a rubber line again that connects to the charcoal canister. On the charcoal canister it might LOOK like there are three places for a vac line. One is plugged (fake). The larger of the three requires a larger vac line and that line should run to your intake, or at least to a port on the intake manifold. Then the fumes from your tank go through the charcoal canister and get sucked into the intake to get burned off. The vacuum lines on the drivers side of the engine bay are all about emissions. The ones on the passenger side are almost all about cruise and HVAC. Generally if you have EVAP problems, it's the lines on the driver side, unless it's a HUGE leak on the HVAC side. Rollover valves cost $25-$30 at the dealer, bulk vac line is cheap. You MIGHT want to drop the tank a little to gain better access.

Just like Crash says...you'll need a 4x4 tranny as well as the transfer case. A transfer case won't bolt to a 4x2 tranny. You'll also need a different tranny mount, cross member and a shorter drive shaft. So the AW4 you have now will need to be be completely removed anyway. Tearing it all apart is mandatory anyway.

...and I learned it by being too damn stubborn to give it up...and listening to the folks on this and other forums.

I swapped a 94 AW4 into my 88 and thought (musta read it somewhere) that I needed the 94 TCU that came with it. Wrong. The TCU has to plug in to a same COLOR connector. The break was 1990 to 1991. The 88 TPS input from the 94 TCU showed 0.0 I never got any input reading from the TPS with my voltmeter. So after poring over wiring diagrams I noticed that the 94 TCU used different pins that the 88-90. Fast forward >> I scavenged a Renix cab forward harness AND a Renix TCU from the yard with the same color connector. Did the trick. To answer the original question and echo Cruiser...the wiring inside the 91+ TCU is d-I-f-f-e-r-e-n-t. The pin out is different, the pins all fit, but it's whats inside that counts. There is no advantage to putting in a newer era TCU into a Renix. If the power/comfort switch is a problem...jump the wires and put it in power mode all the time. Sorry if I'm rambling, I'm usually in bed by 10.

I had no less than four mechanics telling me that my tranny was toast. I was convinced it was not. I replaced the torque converter. $220. Lots of sweat. Free! Result = fixed.

No mention of TPS??