ParadiseMJ

What does it do when the pump is out (or not jumped) and you just turn on the wipers? Or tweak the washer mode on the stick? Do you have wiring for two pumps (aka two plugs)? The wiper circuit has no fuse, but it does have a circuit breaker. I don't know if the breaker is throwing when you jump the wires, but it will re-set in a minute or two (more or less). If there is power to the pump it should run. Unless you DO have wiring for two pumps, I know I do. then one is usable and one is likely dead.

Yes they are tee'd, on top of the tank, then the single rubber hose heads toward the firewall...and hooks to a short metal hose, that travels up the firewall behind the engine. The metal hose is about 12-15" long. Then it continues to another rubber line that ties in to the charcoal canister...and sucked into the intake manifold by the other (fatter vac line) coming off the canister.

I just put my regular air box and filter back into my MJ to smog it. I had a good K&N cone filter set up on it that accommodated all the vacuum lines . It did not use the passive warm air tube from the shroud on the ex. manifold. So I had two smog shops tell me that the "thermostatic air cleaner " part had to be attached. Anyhoo, my truck is running better than it ever has. Much smoother, quieter and seems to have all around better performance. My truck passed smog with EXCELLENT results. Just my experience. YMMV.

Newlyweds and nearly deads. :thumbsup:

The unused plug is probably for the fan temp switch when the PO switched out the radiator in the open system swap.

A search for "J-bolts" or "J bolts" on the ACE Hardware web site comes up blank. Do you remember what they were called? Do the ACE bolts have a flat, button head? No button head. I just went in and looked in the hardware section. There were also j-bolts holding down my cross bed tool box. They're nothing fancy...I suppose if someone wanted to bend a carriage bolt that would take care of the button head. But they hold the tank securely as is. The originals I took out were trashed, rusty. I supposed stainless would be a good idea up if rust was an issue in your area.

ACE hardware is where I got mine. Not stock, not stainless, but holding up well after 7 years. About $3.00 each.

Well, someone had some fun under the hood here. I'd find out if the heater core is clogged (just run a garden hose through it) or leaking. That would be a good reason to "U" the hose from the t-stat to the water pump. Or...when they converted it from closed to open system they just didn't want to deal with the heater hoses. If it was me, I'd remove the bracket for the old pressure bottle and find a different overflow bottle to fit in that spot (then you wouldn't need a bungee to hold it in place. The reason for the EGR solenoid being plugged would be because you have an aftermarket air filter (cone) which does not include a port for the EGR itself, the transducer or the EGR solenoid. All plugged. The mishmash of vacuum lines, plugged and possibly leaking or mis-routed may be an issue in how the truck drives and the fact that you have no working heater. Don't know about smogging or inspection but if those apply, In CA, they'd open the hood and fail you right off. ​Again, if it were me, I'd first explore the heater situation. Cost would involve possibly a heater core, two proper hoses (you don't really ​ need a heater valve) and some hose clamps. Then I'd go buy some bulk vacuum hose and go through my vacuum system. If you find leaks, replace the hose(s), don't just tape them up.

I have Gabriel Ultras on the front of my MJ and Gabriel "load levelers" on the rear with a puck 2.5"" lift with stock control arms w/235/75/15. Ultras all around on the XJ. A 4.5" lift with adjustable uppers and lowers, adjustable track bar... w/265/70/15's. Pretty fair comparison/difference. . but The XJ rides much smoother than the MJ. It rides pretty solid and normal. The MJ rides like,,,well, a truck. Both are solid on a bumpy ride on dirt, gravel etc but rough.

The hose...or tube...is, as said above to send warm air from the manifold when the servo is opened by the bi-metal valve in the rear of the box. It's called a "thermostatic air cleaner" Two little vacuum lines lead to and away from the sensor and it senses when the engine, or the airflow is warmed up and shuts the servo. I recently took off my cone filter (aftermarket) that "said" it was 50 state legal (for a Cherokee), and it is according to The Smog Man. But it's on a Comanche, so he disqualified it, even though it's the same damn exact Renix engine. I took it to a "Gold Star" smog station and they confirmed that. So, if you live in California that hose is supposed to be on there. Otherwise, it's up in the air as to whether your state allows an aftermarket set-up. But even so, when I took the cone off and re-installed stock airbox and all the vacuum lines, it feels like the truck runs better, is quieter and it's legal. Pain in the rear, but that's my experience.

This happened on my 90 XJ and I could not get the plastic piece to stick and hold. So I cut a like size piece of metal tubing...and glued it in there. I think I used epoxy...and left it alone for 24 hrs. Still working fine. YMMV

I missed the 2.5 part. But, the vac hose from my valve cover to my airbox was off and I was getting bad fumes in the cab.

If you're smelling them at slow, around town speeds it may be that your engine isn't getting hot enough to burn off the fuel in the oil. Fuel smell checklist: Check your plugs If you have one spark plug that is ALOT cleaner than the rest, you may have an injector leaking internally. This excess fuel can reduce the lubricating effects of the oil in your pistons by washing it off the walls as you drive. A strong fuel smell in your oil may be another indicator of a leaky injector. Look at your injectors and fuel lines while the engine is running. A small fuel leak will and does evaporate by the time you turn off the engine and go look at it. Look for "clean" areas around your injectors and fuel lines. One little drip can make a whole bunch of fumes. Look at your airbox Make sure the large vacuum hoses are connected and the grommets on the valve cover aren't cracked or broken. Check that you don't have any hanging vac lines. Look under your cab while the ignition is on. When the fuel line is pressurized it can and does leak when the little hoses that connect the fuel filter get old and rot out. If you stop the truck, get out and then look under it, if it's leaking there you won't see it. Check the vent hoses and charcoal canister that are supposed to pull fumes out of the fuel tank. They rot pretty badly and a leak there is all fumes, right next to the firewall. Your girl is correct in being concerned about fuel smells. If there is a leak in the engine compartment it's likely right over your exhaust manifold...which gets damn hot...Ka boom! If it's just a vapor/fumes leak it's not as dangerous. I had a vapor leak from a disconnected vac line that was very strong at hi speed.

My 88 MJ has one pump, no pump for rear, but has the plug hanging like the OP, has a fuse for the rear wiper motor too. My brown plug is attached to the top of the tank (in engine compartment).

Manufacturer specs for an 88 AW4, it's Dex III (or Dex/Merc) not a Chrysler. Aisin/warner (aka Toyota) In newer Chrysler trannies it's ATF+4 (not Dex) I have not experienced the difference in ATF+4 in an AW4, but I've heard, read, that it can cause harm, maybe permanent...not sure.

Are you using Dex/Merc or ATF+4.

The B-Pillar vents are just passive vents. Even if the inside opening was truly "vented" on the inside you likely would not need a vent grill. There's enough venting done just within the B-Pillar trim. If you wanted to open that area up you'd probably not find much workable storage space as the seat belt and spool as well as the speaker take up most of it and you can't really jam anything against the belt, spools or speaker and still have everything work right. If you're looking to gain storage space you could get creative with the back panel. They do make (albeit rare) a shelf system that is unique to MJ's, or you could do some sort of peg board, in wood or metal, to store tools and other stuff. I have a mesh net attached to either side that hold quite a bit of miscellany AND a backpack type set up that hangs on the back of the passenger seat.

Thanks.

As it says: What position is the rear height sensing valve supposed to be in when the truck is empty??

I usually run a cone filter, but connect the the two big vac lines - one from the front of valve cover - one from the evap. and I still have the EGR etc...the only thing missing is the thermostatic air filter passive warm air from the manifold. So I keep the stock airbox, and put it back every 2 yrs. to go get it smogged. But ... I don't really notice the difference (performance wise) except for it's quieter with the stock box than the cone. I like the cone because I can get to everything easier, more room in the engine bay.

I've never heard of that model but these are the ones I could find on the Goodyear page. The Goodyear Wrangler "Radial" has a good/bad rap of having rounded shoulders and therefore wearing out faster (less stout) but cheap, er, inexpensive.. The Wrangler "Trail Runner AT" has a ~~little better shoulder IMHO, more aggressive tread. But the Wrangler "Duratrac" has an even better, solid shoulder and a much more snow, mud, gravel tread design. If I was looking at any of those to buy, I'd go with the Duratracs, I would not (ever) buy the regular "radial" model. https://www.goodyear.com/en-US/tires/family/wrangler?step1=235&step2=75&step3=15&addr=Paradise%2C+CA+95969%2C+USA&lat=39.7213638&lng=-121.65112579999999&cta=undefined

I have no mention of NO on my sniffer test!? I don't know why !!?

I have a Fey bumper and the hitch crossbar is not right up against the bumper. At first I said "crap, there's a 2" gap there...but I like the way it looks now. I was a tiny bit confused, since it did not come with any instructions, but once I figured it out, I realized that all bumpers are not created equal, so instructions may have just confused the issue. I put the hitch on first and then sandwiched the bumper brackets between the rails and the hitch plates. It took a bit to "figure it out", but once I did, it slid in there like it should and bolted right up. That sumbitch is solid. No complaint on the hitch, it's probably the heftiest thing on the truck...LOL.

When I got bigger tires on my XJ I bought a new speedo gear because my speedo was about 10% off...AKA...traveling a mile, by the mile markers on the highway, my ODO registered 9/10's, traveling 10 miles by my GPS, I was registering almost exactly 9 miles. Anyhoo, I changed gears and clocked the bracket corrreectly...BUT...when I took off, the speedo would chatter until I got up to about 45 mph, then it smoothed out. When I went to check it out I noticed the cable tip was barely engaged. I think it was because I also, at the time, took out my gauge cluster to see if the speedo itself was faulty. To do that I had pulled the cable out too far, it was too tight. So when doing this be sure not to yank, tug on, or pull the cable too tight lest risk dislodging the cable tips on either end.

The cable driven speedo has a square "key" that needs to fit firmly all the way into the top of the speedo gear. The end in the speedo itself has a similar tip. Both ends need to be set in the square holes. When things get swapped and work gets done in that area, the cable can be pushed and pulled, dislodging the tip(s)...on either end. Gogmogo is correct that the gear needs to mesh AND be clocked...that's what the two "tabs" on the t-case bracket are for. If you get close up in there you can read the marks. The way I've done it is to put the gear in the bracket, stick it in the hole, spin the gear until you fell it mesh, then adjust the bracket hold down to match the gear count. Then, insert the cable end into the top of the gear shaft...without tugging on the cable...and tighten it all up. If you have 4wd the speedo cable is on the t-case. If you have 2wd the cable is on the tranny.