ParadiseMJ

Yep, I think I got it figured out, maybe. The vacuum switch under the hood has two wires, One is yellow and gray, that one goes into a Y (two yellow/black wires) then into the harness. The other is black with a with a white stripe, it seems to be a ground as it doesn't really GO anywhere but loops around and ends at the mount. I have the old pigtail, but only the t-case half. So if I splice the yellow/gray one to the A terminal and ground the B terminal, and plug it in...will it work??

I really couldn't believe it. I showed the OLD new seal, and the NEW seal to my wife, who knows zip about things mechanical and said "what do you see"? She said "they're different sizes." Doh!! So, now, all new vent hoses, new seal, filter, gaskets, output seal on trans and input on t-case, and t-case output seal, u-joints. Back on the road...as you said...finally. Where can I find a pigtail for the electric connection on the t-case to tranny? Or even the whole 8" piece...it's an HO tranny/t-case.

So..... After all the crap I did with this tranny, it was still leaking out the front seal. To re-cap, I pulled the tranny to replaced the torque converter, replace the seal, it seemed to fix it, but when I took off on a road trip,,,I got about 20 miles into it and was laying down a smoke screen like 007. Pulled over, looked under, Fluid everywhere. Leaking out the front seal, leaking out the tranny lines, fixed the tranny lines. Still leaked out the front. After pretty much having it sit in my driveway, except for short trips around town, it was till leaking marginally out the front. Well, I dropped the tranny again yesterday after getting a new seal and some t-case parts. Pulled out the OLD new seal. I compared it to the NEW new seal...THEY WEREN'T EVEN CLOSE. One (the one I had originally replaced the old, old one with) had an i.d. of 1 5/8" . The newest seal...the right one...has an i.d. of 1 1/2". Are you f'ing kidding me. I slid the old seal onto the torque converter hub, and it wiggled around like crazy...the new seal is tighter than, well, you know...it's perfectly snug. So, new seal installed tranny back together, 50 miles of freeway travel...not a drip, drop or drizzle of leaking. So, it's FINALLY fixed. Be sure to check the size of the new seal, or any part against the old...I got the OLD new seal at NAPA, BTW

The V-8 ZJ tie rod is a heavier solid bar. I'm not sure if the drag link is heavier duty or not, as I've heard it both ways. A 4.0 ZJ tie rod is the same as an XJ. The V8 ZJ bar is physically heavier and larger. It has a bend in it where the XJ bar is straight. The bend doesn't affect anything really. Just be sure to measure your tie rod when it is still on your Jeep end to end...carefully...to the 32nd of an inch. Then adjust the "new" bar to that exact dimension. Then just drop it in and bolt it up. Done.

I understand that. But the vehicle drives so the torque converter obvious IS engaging. There's no way for it to NOT be "engaged," since there is no mechanism to "engage" or "disengage" it. Unless it's broken The OP said he thought the torque converter was not engaging...I said basically it IS engaging because otherwise it would not go , which it is. (so he could rule that out) A torque converter that was broken might not engage. My first thought was to check the fluid and the fuses. The OP made it sound like he did not know the difference between engaging and locking. So, sorry, I'm done. I'll try to be more accurate the next time. Hope the OP works it out

He said he thought his torque converter wasn't engaging not that it wasn't locking up.

Check the level and condition of your tranny fluid. If you're low on fluid, or it's brown/burnt, you need to address that. Check the 10A inline TCU fuse under the passenger knee board. You have to reach up by the heater box and grab the wire harness, pull it down, check the fuse. Check the 7.5 A fuse in the fuse block marked TRANS. If the torque converter isn't engaging...the truck is not going anywhere, as in, not moving at all. It's what makes the tranny GO. The drop in RPM's is overdrive, if the TCU fuse is blown, you have no overdrive. A good place to start is driving a bit more conservatively in your 28 year old truck with 221 miles on it...then address the fluid issue before you blow it up. You asked, just sayin' Good luck. :cheers:

If it fits the front of an XJ it will fit the front of an MJ as they are the same mount locations and dimensions. I've swapped stock bumpers with aftermarket bumpers....all built for XJ's...hell most of my MJ has XJ parts on it. Easier to find when searching and more plentiful in the JY's.

I had a bench seat and the belts were toast. I put in buckets and got the seats and belts from the same 2 door XJ at the boneyard. Since the whole thing is on the b-pillar on both trucks, the only difference is the plastic sheath thing that holds the female side belt to the console/seat. My belts are long, but they spool up just fine. You might see if there is a 2 door XJ...don't know if it makes a difference.

I don't think it would matter if the check valve was inside the ball or inline, somewhere before, or on the outside of the ball. It's all about keeping the vacuum from bleeding out until it's needed (called upon).

Good 'science' Now one could still use the other side of the football, send it to me, I'll trim it and make it a zero clearance ball up against my firewall. My e-mail is broken though.

But as I thought about it some more...there might/should be a check valve inside to HOLD the vacuum...it seems. Which, even in a coffee can could be easily added.

So, correct me if I'm wrong...the vacuum reservoir is not subjected to a HUGE amount of pressure and the interior of the reservoir is just space. I don't think there are baffles or any moving parts inside. So it seems to me you could use a piece of ABS/PVC pipe...3-4" diameter and a cap glued on each end, with some brass (?) fittings for the vac hoses. That way you could customize the size, location etc. And it'd just be a trip to the hardware store...or am I missing some mystery of the internals of the reservoir. I've never cut one open.

Don't XJ's have an adaptor that manages the circuits.? I think it's a blue wire for the trailer brakes and a tan/black wire for the back-ups. My XJ has a 6 prong connector with a 4 flat adaptor at the bumper that leaves out the trailer brakes and back-ups, unless trailer has the 6 prong one too.

Being a rank beginner in the wiring department when I did mine, I got excellent results using a voltmeter with bared wires and a friend to work the signals, brakes, running lights, when I found the corresponding wire (from the truck) I confirmed on the trailer lights plugged in with the wires twisted together. Follow the directions on the wiring kit as to colors. Then take each set apart and solder them securely. Slide the shrink wrap on each wire beforehand and keep it well back from the soldering heat. When you're done, slide the heat shrink over the cooled wires and shrink 'em. Then put them all together and stuff them into wiring loom and tape it up. Should last forever. Make sure the white wire (on the trailer) is grounded, and a good ground on the truck too! With the flat 4 (truck side) you'll get about 4 feet of wire. Abbreviate to about 2 Look for the 7.5 A "TRANS" fuse under the dash, before you mess with the NSS. If that doesn't work search for NSS cleaning write-ups (numerous). I wired the brakes up on both my Jeeps...may not need to in AL, need to in CA. Just sayin' it's a safety thing for me. I did not wire in back-ups, I only have a 5'x8' utility trailer and a small boat trailer.

Really, any of the HVAC side vac lines can break, chafe or crack. The one going TO the ball and the one(s) coming away from the ball to the pink or black HVAC at the firewall, or the ball itself. Easiest way to find a leak is a smoke test. I don't mean an expensive machine...I mean a cheap cigar. Light, puff. blow into line. Look for smoke. If you can't do that, just a careful inspection should turn it up. The driver side lines don't really affect the HVAC side except the SOURCE line from the intake manifold.

Neither of mine (90 XJ or 88 MJ) click except the On/Off, and Hi/Lo...in between it just glides. FWIW my little Nissan commuter car does the same.

Go here: http://www.pacificcoastmanuals.com/jeep_comanche_service_manuals.html $7.95 Worth 10 times that.

Doesn't look bad to me, but I'd do both. Clean it, paint it. I use Purple Power, steel wool, rustoleum primer, rustoleum black gloss (easier to hose off later)

I've always done it in 2nd. So, what's the deal, starter motor, battery?

Yep, I got them at NAPA...$3.99... :thumbsup:

That's a nice clean set-up and will likely outlive the Jeep itself. I'm just planning on replacing what was there...the $3.99 route. Thanks

On the axle...unless I'm missing something, if you a CAD, you have 4WD. If you have 4WD you have a sealed front bearing unit. You can't replace just the bearing and seal like the old days. It's one unit that bolts to the knuckle. Right around $90 for Timken at AutoZone On the radiator swap, Pull the old radiator, pull the pressure bottle and all associated heater hoses. You can use bulk heater hose or buy 97+ molded hoses for a perfect fit. Find a applicable "overflow" bottle...I got mine off a Nissan truck at the junkyard...$5. Spectra radiator $110 Heater control valve (if you want it) $25 Hose = about $20 or pre-made hose = $45 Overflow bottle = Soda bottle free (but really?) or used ~$5 or flimsy generic with crappy wire holder at AutoZone $ 9.99 The important part is that the spill hose needs to be able to suck coolant from the bottom of the bottle Coolant and distilled water 50/50 $20-25 Beer - PBR $5.75 Sierra Nevada $9.50

Good Lord, I hate to say it, but I've had a AutoZone CPS on mine for two years without a single issue...BUT...I also carry a Standard spare. Our local Jeep dealer is a thief...$130. I won't endorse the AZ CPS...but it's been good to me so far...until tomorrow, or when I really need it :yes: Thus the spare! I'm pretty sure just having the spare keeps the AZ CPS in line!

So, I went on the search for the little plastic vent tips for the AW4, the T-case, and the front diff. I read that "any" parts place would have them in the Help! section...but no joy...at O'Reillys and AZ no luck, so I went to NAPA, where they have BOOKS. The computer said transmission case vent, but nothing came up for Jeep. So after looking for 10 minutes the guy got out the book and went right to the page that had GM tranny vent valves. The look the same, they say 3/8". My question(s) 1.) Other than keeping out water and other crap, what do the valves do...and are they necessary other than that. 2.) My vent hoses are 3/8", the GM valve fittings are 3/8". Is there a reason the GM valves will NOT work or are they just that generic and why isn't anything listed for Jeep.