ParadiseMJ

FWIW I would do a and c, or a variation of the two. A couple of good coats of a rust inhibiting paint, with the moly on the pads and their contact points. Of course I don't have to deal with rust out here...as in any rust, anywhere. Still, I'd paint just to avoid dirt/sand/snow/mud...makes everything easier to hose off. Good thread, should be a sticky when all done.

One that doesn't use cassettes, like mine. crutchfield.com Great service, lots of choices. Full kits, easy install

I did blame the fact that the wheels (the factory aluminum spokes) don't have a place for weights on the front of the wheel. The guy that finally balanced them did use stick on weights...like 3 small ones. I since got some steelies, not a problem anymore. I think the tire balance and worn...even slightly can cause a good shimmy at 55-60 that tends to go away at 65-70, depending on the road...

A/C components are not that expensive. Buying a new expansion valve, accumulator/dryer, and hoses might set you back ~$100. Whoever put that in was doing a serious gyppo job...what did the PO convert the A/C to ? I doubt if it worked. Just get all the right parts together, take it to an A/C place to evacuate and flush the system and button it up with r134a orofices. Then you can replace the parts...then take it BACK to the A/C place and have them fill it with 134a.

Go hornbrod's route...^^^^...Have you seen his MJ ? It's cherry!

Update on my problems here: So, I've refreshed all the grounds, including fixing the messed up grounds for the switches for all the auxiliary lighting. The common ground for all the switched aux lights was screwed into a panel screw, not grounded except through the plastic and a fairly loose screw into the metal. It was barely grounding. I added a ground AT the driving lights which was not there, just a hanging wire, so I spliced the two wires and made a common ground to the "frame". All the main grounds (dipstick, engine to body, battery to body) were fine, but I took them off and shined them up anyway. Result: My voltage gauge now stays in the straight up position while running. Turning on any or all of the aux lights barely makes the gauge fall off half of the line to the left. When my headlights are on, it ticks down a bit and then recovers. No problem with readings at the battery. The only thing that is still an issue with the volt gauge is when I turn on the blower. So, since the overflow (not pressure bottle) is bolted in directly over the blower motor, I'll need to remove that and do the blower ground ala Cruiser54. Also, when I do turn on the blower there is still some "mouse nest" type debris making it's way out the vents, so I'll likely take the blower out and clean it and lube it up a bit. I may even replace it just for S & G. This still leaves the stalling problem. I don't mean the sputter, cough, sputter type of stalling...just flat out quits. It only happened twice in the last month, but I'm not trusting it yet. In my looking around, I found the two wire sensor for the Part Time light from the T-case had gotten fouled up in the front shaft and had been stripped and broken. all the connectors are still intact, I just have to splice and re-route some new wire (needs doing anyway). I don't know if that would have any effect on my problem. I tested the CPS and still getting a strong reading from that. Then I need to adjust my NSS, see if the reverse lights are working, the 7.5A TRANS fuse is in and in shape. The NSS is one in my NSS junkyard rotation. When ever I see one in decent shape, I take it home and clean it up, to always have a known good spare.

What have you done so far? Don't try to unscrew them. The trans cooler lines are attached with "quick connects". You shouldn't have to unscrew anything. You need to pinch the little plastic tabs together and pull straight out. The one on the top of the radiator might be a screw off AFAIK. Should be a brass or aluminum fitting...or not. If your Jeep is a 91-92 you may need the disconnect tool...available at your friendly AutoZone or similar parts house. If your lines are in that bad of shape just go buy new ones, they're not all that expensive and they should come with new seals. The seals for the fittings are a little tricky, Consist of an o-ring, a spacer, and an o-ring, and they're sandwiched in the fitting. If they do not have the o-ring set up along with the lines...take the O-rings off/out of the line and SAVE THE PLASTIC SPACER, go to the hardware store and buy the appropriate O-rings. You'll need 8...or more accounting for oops's

I don't get it? Look at the profile pic. He's standing on the roof... ... which by the way, even though it would not cause the symptoms described, is a good way to collapse your roof. the XJ/MJ roof is fairly thin and does not have a lot of bracing. Standing on roof not recommended. Back to topic. There's a huge difference between "death wobble" and out of balance tires. Even though the out of balance tires issue WILL cause the Jeep to vibrate and wiggle a bit, it pales in comparison to the "I thought I was gonna effin' die" full on DW. I had poorly balanced front tires, I had to take it to 3 shops before someone got it right. It was annoying and frustrating, but I could tell they were wrong after driving 100 yds or so. First things first, start with the least expensive and most obvious...go from there.

Did you have a different (manual) transmission before this, or is it just a newer AW4?

MAP sensor plugged in? MAP vac line in good shape? Firing order correct? 1-5-3-6-2-4 ? Sound to me like a simple fix, maybe hard to find, but instead of filling it up with new parts, I'd be doing some more testing

:popcorn: Similar things going on here, so I'm rapt. Good stuff. _______________________________________________________________________________* Off topic: I can't believe that someone finally got the right spelling and context of the French word "Voila" (there you have it, essentially). I've seen "walla" "Wa-La", "Viol-a", and just about every other butcher job.

Can't find the hole mentioned here...I'll keep looking. Thanks Don. I have to be at work work today so not much happening on this today.

Thanks, that's what was talking about when I said... "I have to move some stuff around to see if adding an extra ground to the blower if anyone thinks that would work. I read something by Cruiser about that." My overflow (not pressure) bottle is mounted right above the blower. Not unlike pic number one. It's kind of tight in there, so when I get some time I'll get it out of the way and do the ground in picture 2. Then I'll probably do the alternator case ground too. I have 8ga wire from alternator to starter relay and 4 ga from relay to battery, with a body ground off the batt.. Power from starter relay to light relays through a circuit breaker and a 30A fuse. Then each accessory light/plug has it's own relay.

So the only issues left are: 1. Engine cuts out, usually at speed, only a couple times so far. Just cruisin' along and the next second, engine dead, all electrics work otherwise. Then it starts right back up. 2. Not a fuel problem...as far as I can tell...no stutter, sputter or "run out of gas" feeling. Pressure good, pump primes everytime. Although the pump is old... :???: 3. It'll run fine all day. then I'll get in to start it (hot or cold) and I get nothin'. Kinda why I'm looking at the NSS, besides the inoperable reverse lights, and it won't start in Neutral...ALL fuses good. 4. Voltage drop when I turn on blower, not lights, not cig lighter, not radio...just the blower. Working on that.

OK, so I dove in to my electrics this afternoon. My aux lights ground, from the relay has a common ground for two of the relays. It was loose. I refreshed that and used a tighter fitting sheet metal screw. Now there is zero drop in voltage when I flick them on. Hurrah. I found that the PO had screwed the switch ground screw through plastic into metal, so it wasn't really a good ground anyway. There is still a significant drop in voltage when I turn on my blower motor (at the gauge, but not at the battery). I have to move some stuff around to see if adding an extra ground to the blower if anyone thinks that would work. I read something by Cruiser about that. I also checked my already consolidated sensor grounds that are all soldered now, good and tight. I have yet to run an extra ground to the alternator body. I checked my output and two wire connector at the alternator. The two wire looks brand new inside (I did clean this out and grease it when I installed the alternator 3 yrs. ago). The output is showing 14.7 VDC when running. I checked all the fusible links at the starter relay, all tight and hard. The starter relay is old and rusty, but still seems to work fine - volt wise. I checked just about every connector inside the engine bay, sprayed 'em out, and put a thin layer of DG on all. When I reconnected them I also wrapped a length of electrical tape around them like I usually do, to keep them secure and dry. My volt gauge is still a little wonky. At least I've eliminated some stuff. Like I said, the only time the volt gauge really shows a significant drop is when I turn on the blower OR the radio, which are my next two suspects. If I punch the cig lighter...no drop. Driving lights used to show a drop...now they don't, so there's some progress. It still cranks and starts like a teenager, BUT sometimes I turn the key and it's just dead...and I've had two incidents where it just crapped out with no warning, deead in the water. I'm going out in a bit to adjust my NSS because last week I noticed that the reverse lights were on when the Jeep was parked...in PARK. That's one of the things that told me I needed to do some fine tuning on the wiring. Sorry about the long post, but I'm just thinking out loud. So, here's a QUESTION. If the NSS is loose, out of adjustment or generally screwed up...could it make the Jeep die, after it was started and running...I mean could it kill the engine?? Thanks for the help. If anyone has any more input, it's welcomed.

Thanks guys, All things I'll have to check and confirm/eliminate. I agree on the gauge itself being off but if I wasn't getting the weird symptoms I'd go right to that. I will get to work on it early this week.

It's an 88 4.0 (AW4) I have never eliminated the C101, but 've cleaned all the connectors, headlights (and a headlight harness upgrade) did the grounds in the harness, body, block, dipstick...a year or so ago. I'll bet you're right about the alternator OR more likely the wire connection. The gauge has never been quite right. When the gauge reads 10-11, the battery reads 13.5 - 14 or so. I also test it at the starter relay and an aux circuit breaker for lights etc. for power and it always reads ~12.5 when off and 13.5 - 14 while running. This weekend sucks for getting anything done. Wife has me nailed down with grandkids and Valentine's day so I'll be looking at it on Monday. Thanks for the help.

The dealer CPS is about 2K miles old. The problem is that all the lights work, the gauge goes back & forth...even with the lights bright. When I turn the key. I get either nothing, or it cranks and starts. Then the gauge starts out low and eventually builds up after it starts and runs.

OK, I've been reading about similar problems, didn't want to hijack so here I am. I had intermittent voltage gauge readings. Sometimes it reads straight up, sometime a little to the left and if I turn on the blower, or any other accessory it dips considerably. The lights are strong. Driving home yesterday, tooling along at 60-65...the MJ just quit. I coasted to the side, All the electrics in the truck were working...radio, gauges, interior lights, headlights. The thing just died. So I sat there for a couple minutes... Turned the key, started right up. Drove the rest of the way home. But the gauge was on 9, and as I drove the 6-7 remaining miles it built itself up to reading straight up, slowly. Backstory: I had been having problems with the starter. It would start, run fine...then wouldn't start, like nothing. No crank, no click, nada. I'd climb under, check the wires on the starter, tap the starter...started right up. Replaced the starter and that problem went away. The only thing out of place was the front axle vent line was dislodged and hanging (weird). Any ideas?

Our pick n' pull charges $180 for ANY axle...you pull. They have some already pulled...they charge $100 to pull it...ANY axle. So if you're lucky, you can get Jeep axle, pulled, for $280. I see axles here on CL for anywhere from $100 for a 35 or $450 for a built D30 or 8.8 with decent gearing. Where's Lemoncove? P.S. YES you're being cheap...just like me because I have to pay rent, utilities, food and keep the wife happy too. Creative financing!!

I really like the IDEA of a simple bolt-on although I'm not averse to welding (even though I'm no expert welder). I like the idea of being able to "adjust" the pinion angle. I don't like the possibility of them adjusting themselves under torque. The price is not bad. I have PERSONALLY experienced the RRO customer service nightmare. (5 months of calling, e-mailing, bitching & moaning and even then getting the wrong part(s). I would not tell someone not to order because of my experience...but I wouldn't order even a NUT from them. If someone else was selling the stuff I'd probably do it.

Never had a problem since I did this to two Jeeps...one the XJ, One the MJ Yeah, like that. There is an OVERFLOW tank on an open system...not a PRESSURE bottle. The overflow is open to the air...the pressure tank shouldn't be.

How is it grounded? Where did you plumb it! These are symptoms of a sender that hasn't been installed properly. Mine usually runs 150 on the road, only rises in temp when I'm low & slow or when I'm carrying or towing a load up a hill.

Sender = sends information to a gauge - usually through resistance. Sensor = sends information to ECU - then the ECU uses that info to do something. Switch = opens/closes circuit and turns on lights or accessories, like fans.

The truck is rugged, the owner is just crusty. :rotfl2: