ParadiseMJ

I tried to put some arrows here. [/url The fatter arrow towards the bottom is your battery ground cable. Follow that towards your block, behind the heater valve... The battery ground cable should end at the block (under all the grease) where the little skinny arrows are. If you DON'T have a ground...your Jeep is not running. A flashlight and some neck bending may be required.

The white circle is indeed where the dipstick enters the block. The bolt that holds the upper part of the stick tube to the block is where the ground is. Look further up.

I found yours by following the battery ground cable in the first picture. OP, you might want to clean things up down there. It'll make things a lot easier to find.

Great explanation, and was also just what I thought. I've heard those guys around town. Oh, and funny as hell too...for those of you who don't remember CHiP's...or never even heard of it.

Just like the title says. In my hunt for a new rear for my truck, I keep running across "welded". I know it refers to welded spyders but what does that do? Why do folks weld em'? What are the pros and cons? Thanks

The rubber grommet has two apparent holes. Only one of them is a "hole", that goes all the way through. The other hole/stud is just a keeper to keep the hose in place and tight. Use the correct diameter hose, it actually makes a difference whether you have bigger or smaller hose. If you pull the grommet out and just stick a hose in there, you could have the possibility of a less than tight connection

Ask Cruiser for his leak synopsis. It's not automatically rear main leak right off the bat. Some other "looking" is in order.

I only have 1 check valve, at the manifold, that I installed when I got the truck, as the HVAC vacuum system was gutted. I had to rebuild it all from the diagram posted ^^^ up there. I don't have cruise but I do have 4wd (without the vac disco axle now too). So now I just have the one HVAC line from ball to firewall, everything else is new.

The vacuum system for the HVAC is really pretty simple. As Hornbrod says, it's a piece of cake, and beneficial to relocate the reservoir. If not just for ease of access, but also you'll eliminate a couple feet of vac line as well as taking it out of harms way from battery acid, mud and rough service. The pink line coming out of the firewall just runs the heater valve, nothing else. The black line comes from the reservoir, through the firewall and powers up all the HVAC controls. There's a little "manifold" up behind the HVAC control system and operates the various servos that move blend doors and mode doors. You'll find that there are many posts titled something like, "no air coming from vents", where the only air from the heater or A/C is coming out of the defrost vents, no matter what position the controls are set to. When the HVAC loses vacuum it defaults to defrost. If the leak is small, it'll likely only default to defrost when you're accelerating or under load. Two nipples on the vac reservoir, one large the "source". The small one to the firewall and it may branch off to the cruise control servo, if equipped, and if you have 4wd and a vac disco axle. That's how mine was set up before I eliminated the disco axle. I would suggest that you buy new bulk vacuum line at NAPA or similar parts store, which is cheap, instead of patching any lines with tape etc. NAPA also carries fittings like elbows, T's etc if yours are cracked or old/dried out etc.

If my Jeep had an intact bench seat when I got it, I probably would have kept it. But it was barely held together with tape and wire. Got 2 buckets at the JY (2 door XJ seats) so I couldn't pass them up...but they were filthy. I used Oxy Clean and a brush and sprayed them down with the hose, soaked them twice, left them out to dry in 100 degree "dry" heat. When I got back to them 2 days later this is what I found.

That'd be a nice option...I'm not a certified welder (maybe certifiable, but not certified). I'd likely take the plates TO a welder an ask them to put it all together for me. Might be worth it to just get it in the mail. Thanks for putting in the work here. I'll wait for a reply before I pull the trigger, but I'll be buying something from you soon.

You can use oil, thin oil or oil mixed with MMO, Seafoam, etc.. Put it in, drive around the block a couple times (as opposed to out on the highway) and then drain it. Then I'd let it drain for awhile. My father used to use kerosene to flush everything petroleum related. He'd make sure it had all drained out up on a ramp

I suppose I have to dissent from the group. I don't like the amber anywhere. I had them on my XJ, I switched to clear corners in front and painted the rears with hobby (Testors) gloss clear red, so it was all clear or red. Never had a problem with the CHP or local cops. Don't have "inspections" here, but if it was an issue, I like neohic's solution. My back-ups work fine but I also have a dedicated light on a switch in the rear for very dark or snowy situations.

Did you remove and cap all the vac lines to and from the axle, t-case and switch? The Renix switch for the light is actuated by vacuum. The Renix switch on the t-case is actuated by vacuum. If your CAD is locked over (disconnect removed) then having the vacuum lines there at all isn't necessary and all the metal lines, rubber lines and disco servo should either be gone or capped. Check the little blue switch under the coolant bottle for a dangling wire or vac line, that is the switch for the light (vacuum actuated)

If the recipient is the 91 in your link, it should be fine. If you're going to an earlier year, aka HO to Renix, you'd keep the Renix harness. If it's 92 to 91 it should have the same wiring.

It'll make your life a whoooole lot easier if you go to the junkyard and get the entire engine side wiring harness from an XJ (easier to find) of the same year as your MJ...and the matching TCU. Believe me, I've done this swap without really understanding how it all worked a few years ago and I futzed with it for way too long before realizing I needed the automatic wiring from the same year (era) as the truck...not the trans. It took me about 30 minutes to completely remove the harness with all plugs/connectors intact including the TCU. I did not need to swap computers...I maybe should have but it all works fine as is. I put a 94 AW4 into an 88 MJ that had a 5 spd. BA/10. Ha ha. Since the gearing is 3.07 the AW4 is a bit doggy with larger (32ish) tires. You might want to investigate that too. With 235/75/15's on it, it's much better. I had to get a 91-95 23 spline t-case to swap in with it.

Gotcha!

What is the advantage of the adapter, besides that it will now fit Spectre accessories? Just curious. Any internal changes...or just a bigger throat/mouth opening?

I thought he said he HAD power to the switch...I re-read that. Continuity doesn't mean power, I got it now.

Sounds like you popped a fuse in the jump. Check the 10A TCU fuse under the dash, passenger side. It's in-line in the wiring harness for the TCU. Check the "TRANS" 7.5A in the fuse panel by your left knee.

1.) Do you mean the chintzy aluminum tube from manifold to intake...or do you not have a stock airbox? The tube is available at any parts store. In the exhaust accessories department I had to do this on my son's XJ, don't remember the size...about $3.50. 2.) Why can't you weld it? You don't have a welder, don't know how to weld it or they won't allow you to weld it. If the first two...get a shop to weld it...if the latter, you'd need to replace the manifold with an intact Renix manifold with the riser/stove that the hose attaches to. 3.) Not exactly sure what you mean about the parking brake...it's not racheting? It just doesn't hold even when it's pushed down? Search for e-brake, emergency brake etc. There are a couple of write-ups on how to fix/replace it or convert it over to a pull lever like an XJ. If it's just a matter of adjustment underneath, you might want to tighten up the bolt on the equalizer. OR You could just move to a state where they don't do inspections or emissions...like Puerto Rico.

...and the deer. We have a 250+ buck that frequents our neighborhood (the baby-daddy of most of the deer around here I'd guess). I hit a fat doe with my first little Nissan at 25 mph and they totaled it. The airbag deployed...she rolled right over the top and ran off, full speed.

I forgot about that one. You can have power to/through the switch, and if that 7.5A fuse is gone, there will be no power to the light

My 90 XJ had this feature already. I was surprised when I found my 88 MJ did not. It does now. I don't know if I followed this but they work as described. Recommended !! Also, I put a third brake light on my cab. I used an XJ light...it looks stock and works fine.

Double