ParadiseMJ

When you say molding, do you mean the graphics? A.K.A "Pioneer" stickers. They are available on ebay. Some have said they can have them made by a graphics shop or a "wrap" shop.

Dropping the tank will also allow you to easily check out the roll-over valves on the top of the tank and the vacuum lines attached. The valves can also be a leak point since the tops are plastic and disintegrate after 25+ years and a disconnected vacuum line on the valves can cause a fuel smell that's hard to locate. If the valves are disconnected, broken or not working properly you WILL NOT pass smog in CA. New valves are available at the dealer for about $25 each...worth replacing while the tank is out.

The fact that the indicators didn't show points to a bad switch. Usually if the flasher goes out the indicators show up as solid on but I could be wrong about that. The flasher is one of two cylinder shape plug in relays in the fuse box under the dash. I think the one on the left is for blinkers, the one on the right is for hazard flashers. Try swapping them and see if anything changes. If one is bad...replace, about $10. If you do any towing get the "heavy duty" flasher to accomodate the trailer lights as well.

When I got my MJ the bed was not attached and the filler neck was gone, as well as the hoses. The regular hoses that you can just buy in any other state were not "approved" for sale or to be installed in CA. So I just made my own. As far as the metal part I believe I used the part off of an XJ from the junkers.

The engine block drain is somewhat of a PITA to remove but it is definitely do-able. If you have a sacrificial socket extension that you can grind down to fit, you can then put it on a breaker bar and pop it out. Then you can flush away to your hearts content, back forth (thru the t-stat hole) You can use some sort of surfactant (low suds, high phosphorus, like dishwasher soap) to really get the dirt, crap and rust out of there. I did this when I did my head with all good results and no ill effects. he Once you drain the coolant there is not really a whole lot of coolant/water in there, mostly just around the bottom of the cylinders. That is where the real sludgy crap also lives (as well as the small galleries in the head), so getting it out is important too. Once you get the crap out, and rinse it really good, let it dry. Put it all back together and sealed up, then flush it again with clean water...and drain it. Hopefully you've flushed out the heater core separately, back and forth till it runs clean, clean clean...then fill the whole thing up with the 50/50 distilled water and coolant. At tthis point you really don't need to add extra anti freeze. A 52/48 mix is not going to make much difference.

1. I daily drive with spacers on rear. No problem. 2. Same bolt pattern 5x4.5...why would it be different...do you have a different D35? 3. Lug nuts for a Jeep MJ are 1/2"X20...unless you have a different D35? 4. They only fly off if they're not bolted on...wheels and/or spacers, in my world tend to not "fly off". Actually I have yet to have anything on my rig fly off What kind of spacers are you talking about? You bolt them to the drum, with a lug wrench...tight. Then you bolt the wheels to the spacer, tight! I suppose you could glue them on or use duct tape...I use bolts & nuts.

So, I gotta ask...in gogmorgo's wiring diagram I don't see where anything goes to the switch...what am I missing??

Everything from the TCU plug (connector) up to the C101. All the wiring from the C101 stays, so you just plug it in. When you remove the TCU, pull the connector, feed it through the hole in the firewall (kind if a PITA) and keep the big rubber grommet attached (you will really not be able to remove it anyway). Removing the wiring harness took me about 20 minutes in the junkyard, disconnecting each sensor, component etc...and about 30 minutes took about 1/2 hour, cleaning connectors and either zip ties ot the factory wire holders. Then you'll have the correctly wired plugs to connect to the tranny plugs. Be sure to put the ground wires from the TCU on the oil dipstick ground bolt as well. Re-installing the rubber grommets was a bizzotch, helps alot if they are lubed up and warm (just like everything else in life :brows: ). When you're doing the wire swap, go to Cruiser's tips and do the sensor ground upgrade

Transmission Control Unit (aka TCU) bolted under the dash on the passenger side...it runs the electronics of the tranny. You should not have any issues with swapping the similar years. Except you'll do well removing the TCU from the donor AND the engine side wiring harness with the TCU plugs. I did the very same swap and screwed with the wiring for weeks until I realized I needed the wiring from the donor that I got the AW4 from.

Really you'd be much better off finding a 90 or pre 90 t-case at a junkyard or on CL. A quick inspection thru the fill/drain hole should tell you if there is metal in the case and/or if the chain is in decent shape. When I swapped the AW4 into my MJ I got a used case for $60, and slid it right in there. It was the ONLY easy part of the swap.

The same way I know...doh! It seems like the calipers should just have simple R and L stamped into them...the weird part is that they'll fit either way...but the result is endless bleeding and no pedal.

Did you replace front calipers?

I don't think Jeep/Chrysler etc. planned on anyone ever removing the flares which is why they used regular old stamped in cheapo bolts, instead of SS or something else in such a vulnerable corrosion prone spot. I have removed, replaced flares several times, and even in the rust free west, they always break. So like Rockfrog sez, after they break off, just, grind, drill them out and use SS hardware... Buying new replacements is also an option if you can find them and/or have the $$.

So all ZJ's have the fatter tie rod?

does it matter what year its from? It doesn't matter what year or model as long as it is a ZJ. ...and is a V8 ZJ

Just so you know...the BOOK...that mechanics work from to estimate hours and labor cost says as much as 6 hours labor. So they charge 6 hours. Which is why I started doing my own work on my Jeeps. They wanted $500 labor to install a $14 part. Some vehicles require removal of the tranny...not this one. So, not to diss your buddy, but he's wrong, I've replaced 4 of these things on 4 different Jeeps and removing the tranny will not "give it a better seal" DO NOT REMOVE THE TRANNY

I used J bolts that I bought....at NAPA. About $3 each.

Is that... House gutter drains? :rotf: Total cost = $12.95 Comic Relief= priceless

Just remember, grooved pulleys get the inside (grooved) part of the belt, smooth pulleys get the back side of the belt.

I'm using the stock sender, with no T, and no second sender. Do you have a picture...not quite sure what you're talking about. How many do you need?

Not really. If they did it at all, and did a decent job, but the no power/lack of power could be related to the gearing and your tire size. What tires are you running?

...and the rear bumper AFAIK will not interchange. The mounts are 40+inches apart on the MJ and the XJ is more like 36"

If you use the bench seat brackets and grind off the rivets and then bolt the brackets to the XJ seat bottom, it will work, but if you don't use 2 door XJ seats, they will not fold forward and getting behind the seat is a pain. It can be done, but it requires a little modding and fab work. Use the MJ floor pans

There are a few indications that the tranny has been swapped in by the previous owner(s) Lack of power...as in, if you have an auto tranny and 3.07 gears...have you checked? If you have a D35 the gears are likely 3.55, if you have a D44 they're likely 3.07's. The 4WD light not lighting could indicate that a newer tranny was swapped in with a newer T-Case without the vacuum set-up. Check your t/c to see if there is a vac switch and all the vac is working. Look on the paasenger fender for a blue vac switch (for the light) and if it's connected. The speedo vibrating indicates that the cable is not making a good connection in the square hole at either end (a.k.a. someone messed with it. The 4X4 not engaging could be because the linkage is out of whack...if someone put in an AW4 and didn't fix the difference in length of the tranny. Climb under there and look to see if the main linkage arm is cocked. Try putting it in 2WD while it's off and sitting in N.

Jacks(2) Strap/chain/rope variety of hoses & clamps big red tool box...that weighs about 40# tranny fluid, oil, coolant, brake fluid, p/s fluid Down (-0) sleeping bag/Tarp Axe Shovel ...but mostly I just keep a paid up AAA card in my wallet