ParadiseMJ

I have a similar pair on my MJ. They're great. I bought my PAIR for $75-80 brand new, not $150 So price wise, I'd do some homework with the above chart and Google. They don't provide a lot of lift...maybe 5/8" when all is said and done, but they do ride nice and the rear end doesn't sag even with a load of firewood in the back.

Did you pour the fluid in the TOP hole...or the bottom? Just askin'

My 90 XJ Laredo has it,and so does my 88 MJ Pioneer. So, I'd say 1990 was the last year. I like this Wheel best, I like the studs, and with a slip on cover its just beefier looking

Check the "gauge" fuse. Upper right on the fuse panel. Mine has a bad "slot" so it's a bit loose in the panel and I have to futz with it every now and then when my fuel gauge is generous. However, when my gauge goes from 1/2 or 1/3 to pegging past full...my other gauges go a bit wonky too. I suppose the whole cluster (except the speedo/odo) is on the same fuse. Just one of those little things I haven't fixed yet.

I think I have a newer style bracket just laying around that I will definitely not be using. If you need it it's yours. PM me and I'll snap a picture of it. Couldn't tell you the shipping cost off hand. My zip is 95969.

The bigger vac lines...like the brake booster to manifold and the "other side of the engine" HVAC and Cruise SOURCE line coming off the manifold would definitely make the idle high. Smaller lines maybe less so, but a good time to check them all out. The smaller lines on the passenger side would show themselves by the HVAC, heater valve and cruise not working quite right.

...and check to see if you dislodged/cracked or disconnected any vacuum lines on the drivers side of the engine.

I have an 88 with a blue rubber gasket (I'm assuming for an 88) I've had that cover off at least 4 times and it still doesn't leak at all. So ask the parts store for a gasket for a 92. Unless there's a different reason for wanting the 97+ style.

OK, now I want a side exit WITH a flapper. Mostly so people can SEE it and believe that I'm super cool B) But seriously, I like the side exit job. It might be a difficult mod, but for a regular off road rig, encountering a lot of water, it'd be the way I'd go. Especially since stacks look incredibly stupid for a small (or any) pickup truck. But, the chance of me driving in water, as opposed to just through it is extremely unlikely. If I don't know how deep it is, I'm not driving through it.

There needs to be a diffuser in there somehow, that separates the red running/brake light from the amber directional lamp. The way it's set up is like trying to light your way with a jack-o-lantern. The red will wash out the amber and vice versa inside the hollow space. IMO

I broke one of the ears on the first one I got...no problem...they expect little screw ups like that. If I had bought it, I'd be SOL after a couple months. I think it was defective or the previous user had abused it. The PB popped out on the first try. Spray some PB or similar penetrating oil a few hours before. If you're having trouble, hit it with a torch. As far as fitment, I couldn't say. Size it up to the hole and the shaft, seat it with a wood block and whack.

Rent a puller (slide hammer type) from Auto Zone, pops right out

I think it takes a year (even six months) of driving it and bringing everything up to snuff as MrSimon says above. Unless you've already chopped up a few vehicles chasing the perfect set-up. You'll really get a better feel for exactly what you want to do with it AND what it needs. Some guys think the stereo is the most important thing, some the tires, some the height, mods etc. It gives you some time to look at other rigs, how to get there, how much you want to spend, how other people got theirs that way.

Depending on the driver. Could have been a 300 pounder...and that would create concentrated gravity.

I've done the mod on my XJ and MJ and never felt I had to whack it hard. I just tapped it with a dowel and slid it over, then put my thumb on the inside edge when tightening the inboard bolt.

If you take the seat floor brackets (yes, even a bench seat works for buckets) off the existing seats you can swap just about any seat from a small truck, van or car into the MJ, as long as it physically fits the space. The key part is the floor bracket. Then it's fairly easy to use some flat stock or angle steel to modify the floor bracket to seat connection. If you ditch the whole existing seat and no longer have the floor bracket it'll be harder to mount.

Just buy a "wedding" ring. AKA a nice ring with a diamond or 4. Let her see it...and then use it at the ceremony, meanwhile her finger is naked. Net savings: 1 engagement ring

You might want to do a go 'round on your vacuum lines. Especially the ones on the drivers side. The HVAC line, cruise, and CAD lines don't have a lot of effect on the running, more so the big one off the manifold, MAP to TB, EGR (if it's still there) and brake booster will have large effect on the engine. Any open vac ports on the manifold will definitely cause issues. What you're explaining reminds me of a MAP sensor (or the line to it) that can make your engine run like crap. If you have any cracked, cut, broken, chafed or otherwise compromised vac lines, they should be replaced. Grommets on the VC as well need to be newish and tight. The vacuum harness is cheap enough to replace, and bulk vac line is super cheap for all the other connections.

I agree completely. When the hitch arrived, even the UPS driver said "That's some nice work". The pictures I've seen don't do it justice. My wife accused me of spending too much time with my new Hitch. Thanks a lot krusty.

It's not a wire. It's a vacuum hose. It should be plugged in to the heater control valve in the lower right of your picture.

My door was out of alignment and it would close as long as I kept slamming it until this happened: So I made a piece to cover it out of 16 ga. sheet metal. Fit it up, drilled the big hole with a hole saw, and placed it over the spot. Then I riveted it to the body. Need to make the center hole bigger than the bolt (striker) to be able to adjust it. This has worked great for over a year without any stress cracks etc. (I fixed the door hinge too)

Take a piece of the hose...the right size hose... and go to any decent hardware store. They should have the rubber stuff by the foot. 5 or 6 feet ought to cost about 5-10 bucks. If you ask for "radiator overflow hose" on Amazon, you'll get a package, not a cut to order. Pretty much any type of hose will work as there isn't a lot of pressure or nasty chemicals involved.

I agree with the socket issue. I had similar problems with my sockets being corroded, new sockets fixed it. I'd also check to see if your trailer wiring (if equipped) isn't a hack job. My towing harness was an incredible tangle of mis-matched wires, held together (barely) with odd splices and connectors. I removed the trailer wiring and re-wired it my self and all my rear end lighting issues went away.

PM me.

They are (essentially) the same bracket. If you're changing out seats there is always going to be some modification necessary, but having the actual MJ floor bracket is step one. After that you can fit almost any seat (with modification of course). You won't find bolt-on MJ seats unless they're from another MJ