ParadiseMJ

Every XJ/MJ I've ever owned or looked at in the junkyard with the engine/tranny out or lowered has had the hole. The hole is not ON the firewall. It is in the tunnel, just along the curve going into the tunnel. My MJ was a 5 speed (aka didn't need the cable) but the hole, and plug were both already there. I had to lie on my back directly under the tranny and run my hand along the inside of the tunnel...and boom,,,there was the hole. If you don't want to drill, keep looking. I'll bet you a nickel it IS there.

It is NOT supposed to go anywhere near the booster. It goes from the tranny, makes an easy U turn and slides into the hole just inside the tranny tunnel. It is hard to find, but it's there. Sounds like someone did some tranny work, couldn't find the hole and said F*** it. Then they likely used the wrong (too long) cable. It should only travel along the tranny for maybe 10-12" before it dives into the hole.

Just saw this topic/thread, gotta chime in. I've had 3 Renix Jeeps, 2 XJ's, current MJ. 89 XJ #1 had 280K on it when retired, 90' XJ #2 has 287K on it and still going strong in my son's hands. The MJ just cracked 200K. The only real problems I've had with any of them...I caused myself. Like the tranny swap wiring debacle (you know what I'm talkin' about) I would rather not have a phantom CEL popping up when the slightest little hiccup occurs, I rather not need an SYE to lift the thing more than 2". To me the Renix Jeeps are simpler (like me) and more rugged. The only fuel injection problem I've EVER had was caused by crappy stock injectors that cost $50 a pop. A little trip to ebay solved that for me for $99.95.

...or not :ack: That is ... if it stopped your heart ... you wouldn't know it! I was shocked by plug wires, once. It is a very short education. I have not touched a plug wire while cranking OR running since then ... 40 years ago.

T-case same era as your tranny. If you get a tranny from a Renix, you'll need a 21 spline t-case and a Renix TCU and a Renix harness. If you get an HO tranny, you'll need a 23 spline (HO+) t-case, etc. etc. You need a flexplate AND the bezel (or washer, spacer...whatever it's called. You'll also need shorter bolts to bolt the flexplate to the crank end...since your flywheel is much thicker than the flexplate, the bolts will stick through and interfere with the crank (learned the hard way, again). You may need a new throttle cable, and you'll need to shorten your rear driveshaft about 1.5" and get an automatic front driveshaft (the AW4 is longer, so the t-case mounts an inch or two back, the front shaft needs to be longer) If you get a 91+ tranny, you'll need a 23 spline t-case, HO TCU and an HO harness. Since you have a 94 engine, you should shoot for a 94 tranny, but not entirely necessary. You'll need a harness compatible with your engine AND TCU or the TPS wiring will be different and you'll get no signal top the TPS thru a Renix hjarness. I've never changed the ECU. It's stick original 88 stick, but it works fine. The TCU female connector and male harness connectors are color coded (the connectors are the same color) If you have a tan connector and a green TCU...it won't work right and vicey-versy. When I swapped the BA10 out for the AW4 I didn't change the harness. I (stupidly) tried to wire it up myself with the existing TCU and existing harness...big mistake. I messed with it for a few weeks before I checked another wiring diagram. So, other than wasting lots of time, I learned a little. I went to the junkyard and in about 20 minutes I had the "new" harness out. It took another 1/2 hour at home to remove the old harness and plug the new one in. I got the new TCU from the same 1990 XJ Automatic. I plugged all that in, fired it up, and boom...perfect. That's all I got for now, if you have any questions going in to this feel free to PM or just keep posting. Make sure you use an actual transmission jack instead of a mocked up floor jack, you'll thank yourself later. Also, I loved driving the stick but it was a POS, and driving the automatic is nice too since it's a road warrior more than an off road truck. The AW4 is a damn strong tranny. Good luck.

Anybody remember Ma & Pa Kettle? Pa: "I need some 2x4's" Store owner: "How long do you want them?" Pa: "A long time, I'm building a shed."

I totally agree with this. I've had it both ways on both Jeeps. The best and quietest intake is the stock set-up IMHO. Keeps excess dirt/mud/water from getting slung onto the filter...and possibly into the intake. If you're planning on crossing a lot of creeks, rivers in your truck, I'd go with a modified, removable snorkel (mostly because I think snorkels look pretty lame driving around town, but then again that's my own preference). The rectangular port on the stock intake right behind the headlight bucket IS a cold air intake, and really provides plenty of flow. If you want to modify the stock box (there are some good threads on this mod on NAXJA, JeepForum, etc. but then you're back to sucking in hot/warm air. (for Calif. trucks you need to have either the stock set-up or a 50 state CARB approved intake with proper grommets or it will play hell passing smog)

The speedo on my XJ had been clicking for sometime, it'd click up to 45 mph and then it would stop. Behind the dash where the cable plugs in to the cluster was pulled out (when I swapped clusters) to where it just was catching the spindle. I just reattached it and went under the Jeep to give it a bit more slack so it went in the needed 1/8 inch and stayed there. On the MJ when I swapped T-cases the cable was not fully engaged in the gear end in the t-case. the speedo didn't move but it clicked. When I put a drill on it worked fine. So I ruled out a broken cable. I found why it wasn't engaging in the gear...the old gear had goop/shavings in the female part so the spindle wouldn't go in. When I cleaned it all out it cured the problem. Good speedo, no click.

Take the fixture out of the Jeep. Look at the little rocker switch in there, see if it's: a) dirty or oxidized (green) - use a small piece of emery paper/sand paper and clean off the contacts. I actually used a fine paper on the end of a dremel. Cleaned them up nicely and they work like new now. b) distorted - the contacts are prone to bending out of range over time. Use some tweezers to see if you can bend them back into shape...carefully. Or get on ebay and buy some new fixtures. They're not really expensive. They may need a tiny bit of trimming...of the panel. to pop right in. You also may need to bend the clips to make it stay in. Follow the wiring instructions that they come with. They're weird.

11? and 2 greats... You, sir, have a prolific family. :bowdown: Man, I guess I'm a late bloomer. I'm the only G'pa among my close friends...and yes, I am an old geezer.

Greetings, Became a grandfather for the second time last night. Just letting everyone know I'm not 18 anymore B)

I'm with MrSimon on this one, although a year may sound like a looong time, doing it all in a big hurry will likely leave you with a hacked up, mismatched and inferior build. Just buying springs and "going from there" is a bad idea, since you're going to need to do MUCH more to get what you want with quality results. So, you wanted a list: Plenty of money and... Long arms Axles with a favorable gear ratio for giant tires (and/or gears and the ability or more money for someone to set them up) SYE Shocks - not just regular auto parts store shocks. Wheels Tires A good welder (or a good "welder" with great fabrication skills) ...and that's just for starters Then you'll want a bigger engine, lights, stickers and a cup holder. So, what is it you plan on doing with the truck? realistically you're looking at 10K or so, and a lot of down time. .

The 7.5 A TRANS fuse under the dash...or the 10 A in-line fuse under the passenger dash in the location described above. All easy fixes, even if it's a solenoid.

My experience with rotors between my 88 and my 90...the rotor was completely different. The 88 was much thicker...that the NAPA guy gave me for the 90... and it was cast. The 90 was considered composite and the "hat" was much (almost 1/2 inch) taller. I don't remember if the disk itself was thicker. I can think of 3 reasons for the caliper not compressing besides a faulty caliper. 1. Hanging up on the slide 2. Disk too thick 3. Hat too tall (aka the disk itself is backset)...if releasing the bleeder doesn't produce a "spurt", try to work the caliper piston with a C-clamp and see what happens. Have you followed the bleeding procedure for the height sensing valve on the rear diff? Adjusted the rears?

I have had the "tapping" in my XJ for years... I've had the tapping in my MJ since I got it 4+ yrs ago. I've re-done the head, new guide seals, new lifters, cleaned the engine a couple times, keep good oil and good filters in it...and they both still have some tapping. 90 XJ has 271K on clock and still strong. 88 MJ has 195K and is (and always will be) a work in progress. Unless it is giving you trouble or smoking or losing power...who know how long it can go for. You can always drop a new engine in it, or transmission, or whatever. The only thing that would make me throw in the towel would be rot and rust...and even that can be fixed.

Yes or no...it depends!

No rust...just dirt too! This MJ was a farm truck before I got my hands on it. Didn't have carpets, rubber, or padding. Not red!

What are all your old tricks? Slowly overheats under what conditions? Highway speed, traffic, crawling, idling, up a hill, towing? ...and the French aren't responsible for your whole truck...although they are rude.

I've had a WalMart battery in my MJ for 5 years. I have 4 different aux. circuits on relays. All bright lights and converter No sweat. Optima's are overpriced IMHO. But if you want cool, they're cooler than a WalMart battery. A $60 battery tray is overkill (and over $$) for a "once in a while camping vehicle". If you're on a budget, go budget...if not, go balls out. Just sayin'

It's all a matter of what YOU like. It's good for a light bar, good place to mount a hi-lift, axe etc , and if you'll always keep your bed open it's kind of a nice bar. It's not my cup of tea but if you like it keep it. I like chrome too and it would look better with chrome rims and a chrome bar...and it screams 80's truck because it is...isn't that what we like about these things?

There is no OBD on a 1988 Comanche Pioneer 4.0L 5-speed manual. I really doubt it's the computer. But if you want to get a new computer, I'd get one for a 1988 Comanche Pioneer 4.0L 5-speed manual. Considering the KC lights started the problem, that's kinda where I'd start. Were they wired in with a relay...or just a switch? I'd start by checking cables, grounds and connections. Sounds like you need to go directly to Cruiser's tips. Cruiser's Mostly Renix Tips (over 26 of them) can be found here: http://comancheclub....tly-renix-tips/ Refresh*Connections*Before*Replacing*Components My Jeep Technical photos can be found here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/43691-jeep-technical-photos/

Take a trip to your local junk yard. Everything in the engine bay can be found in a similarly equipped Cherokee as they are identical up front. You'll find a battery tray from a Cherokee for $5.00 tops, You'll also find an intake tube for $10 or so.

That pretty much covers it...as I don't want to bring along my entire shop. I also carry the best tool of all...my AAA card...never failed me yet. I actually call it my FUBAR kit.

I was replacing the radiator anyway. If I had newish "closed" radiator, I would not hesitate to use the filler neck adapter. It does basically the same job. I think I missed that part and was addressing the overflow. Oops.

I took out the pressure bottle and it's little mounting bracket when I converted the cooling system. I had just bought a super cheap generic overflow bottle...it was worth every penny (aka crap). So, I found a overflow from a Nissan Altima at the JY, that fit perfectly in the space by the heater fan and just screwed it to the firewall. Sorry no pictures, but it works beautifully. As far as clearance, I just mock fitted it...and it just popped right in to the desired spot, so I drilled a couple holes...now it's permanent.