ParadiseMJ

Does it have a little fitting on the end? I don't remember the color offhand (I deleted all that) but there is supposed to be a loose line, vent with a check valve on it that isn't seemingly connected to anything...except the check valve.

Well, as the article in the link says...it's 5/8"...the rubber vent hose and the tubing on the OUTside is 5/8" too. It looks to me like all the measurements are right there in GoJeep's article, including how much you can add to go mild or wild. It's the how to. Good luck.

A X2. I believe that is what caused mine to leak. I know there is a thread around here somewhere about temp sensor bungs on the housing, but has anyone ever tried to put a pressure gauge on it? Since I don't know enough about transmissions, my thought is that there has to be pressure to push out a seal that is otherwise (seemingly) been installed correctly. Where that pressure comes from...more importantly...what causes enough pressure to push out the seal. Just normal operation or something gone wrong. Just as a side note: did I mention that the trans runs smooth, shifts at the proper speeds (rpm) and has never really given me one iota of trouble since I installed it and ironed out the electricals. No jerking, slipping, clunking etc. It's entirely possible that the vent line is kinked, since I replaced the line with a stiffer hose and routed it differently. Then once I put the trans in place, it seemed a little cramped up in there. I'll know better when I drop the trans again. However, other than that does anyone have another idea that could explain undue pressure in the trans. Thanks for the replies (and Don, I'm not discounting your reply, you may be entirely correct...I'm either a sucker or an optimist)

Wait...that horse CAN'T be dead yet. It's puzzling to me that after driving it around for more than a week it blew the seal when I wanted to go somewhere. Maybe I should put the BA-10 back in there.

Did the same as GirsMJ...a friend had some old Chevy diamond plate bedrails. I cut them to size, painted them black. I kind of expected them to chip, showing chrome underneath, but I guess they weren't shiny chrome so they've held up over 4-5 years really well.

Hey there MJ'ers. I posted awhile ago with a transmission issue. I did not think the transmission was shot, even though the truck would not move, although the engine ran fine. It felt to me like a torque converter, so I took it to a shop and the guy told me my torque converter was shot. So, I replaced it. Along the way I replaced all the shaft seals. Front behind the torque converter, transmission output, t-case input, t-case output. I replaced all the vent hoses too, because they were squishy and worn out...and the linkage bushings for the t-case linkage. I put it all back together. I filled it up with fluid, 8 qts. I drove it. All good June 1st. Engine runs good, tranny shifts really well, in all gears it feels just a skosh stronger. Drove it around town, to the dump (20 miles r/t), up hills, down hills, freeway, dirt roads. Added a bit more fluid according to the dipstick (hot, running and in Neutral). Everything perfect. Fast forward to last Wednesday. I pack it up to go camping, not a big load, canoe, camping gear etc. Check all the fluids, all good. Hit the road. I get about 15 miles from home and started laying down a James Bond smoke screen. Stop the truck, look under, think I may have filled it too full and fluid was puking out the dipstick. Nope, there is fresh red fluid POURING out the front of the bell housing. Result...towed home, switch to my car...go on trip. Can anyone give me a good reason why the front seal would have blown out, and/or if there would be anything else that would cause this hemorrhage.

Eye to eye on the shaft. Not including the slip yoke portion.

Do a vacuum check for a clogged catalytic converter. When my cat crapped out it "leveled out" at about 2800 rpm, anything over that it just would not do. I live in the hills, so it was a problem.

A few years ago I replaced the pumps on my MJ and my XJ, same day, same pump. The 90 XJ pulley shaft was slightly recessed, The 88 MJ shaft was flush. Both metal pulleys, one was solid, the other had spokes of a sort. As fiatslug says, as long as it's lined up with two other pulleys, you should be OK.

Thanks again guys. I stopped in to my local ACE hardware and picked up the bolts. Perfect fit, added a lock washer. Good to go now. BTW...yes, grade 8.

Thanks guys. I'd say the bolts are labeled correctly...one is the lower...because it's lower, on the tranny. One is the upper, because it's further up, on the tranny. Anyway, thank you for the info and the ideas. Great forum, just great. :thumbsup:

You may have something there. IIRC they were a tad +/- 2" (that's how precise I am). So SAE...not metric?

Hi folks, I want to replace the top two reverse torx bolts on my AW4. I took them out...long story...and I think I tossed them in absolute disgust. Can anyone help me out with the size of those bolts?

The vacuum source line from the intake manifold should go to the to the cruise servo (if equipped) and to the large orifice in the ball, the small black line goes OUT to the HVAC (black line on the firewall). The pink line coming out of the firewall goes to the heater control valve. If you don't have a heater control valve, the pink line should be capped...use a tight fitting cap. If you don't have the vacuum line group for the front axle you don't need any other lines. The way that is set up doesn't seem like it would work, especially since it doesn't seem to be using the ball at all (do you have a round ball or a football?) to "store" vacuum while under load...aka accelerating. If the HVAC is only blowing out the defrost, under load, it's likely because that set-up.

I have the very same Quadratec style bumper on my MJ without the d-ring option (just a plain bumper). The bumper mounts are such that I would not trust them unless they were welded all the way through the bumper with some beef and securely bolted to the frame. My mounts are not "recovery grade" so I have hooks with brackets that are seriously strong under and independent of the bumper. I like the LOOK of the d-rings though.

I went to the yard today, many 4.0's. All of the gas tanks are pierced. Some of the tranny pans are too. There are a few oil pans with just the drain plug pulled, no piercing. Didn't have time or the inclination to bust out a pan in 95+ degree weather...that friggin yard is toasty and full of Black Widow spiders. May try a different way.

How does that work? All my vehicles get their vacuum from the intake manifold. I've never seen a system where the alternator supplies the vacuum.

PM sent

. So any Jeep 4.0 pan will work in my 88? I spent this morning crawling around under the MJ today. The dent is bigger than I thought. I put a straight edge on it and it measured about 1.25" at the center. The sides are creased in and it wouldn't seem that the pump and pickup have a perfect environment to work in. Like the pump would likely be cocked and the pickup sitting at an angle (if I remember the set up correctly. I also bent up one of my control arms. Good thing I have a set of new arms sitting in my shop. More fixing in my future.

I don't think it's big enough to decrease oil capacity, a very low speed thump and at the very bottom of the sump.

I dented my oil pan going over a log. Grazed it right in the middle, pushed it in about 1/2" over about 4" "round". No creases, no leaks. I'll replace it eventually, but should I replace it NOW or can I get by for a few weeks. Also the pans I looked at on RockAuto, there are some with an oil level sensor bung. Never knew this was an option. They run around $50-$80 - up to $130. Any body have a preference.

The rubber gasket is not a seal, it's just trim as is the metal trim, has very little sealing utility. The seal is on the inside in the form of a wide bead of urethane goo glue. Although I think the rubber looks a lot better (unless you like chrome), some shops will just cut to size and not use any pre-fab template. If you're paying more than $200, installed, find another shop. I have about 4" of tint on the top of my 88 MJ.

If the actual body of the pump is cracked I'd say it's toast. I'm usually a cheap SOB, but in some cases I actually bite the bullet and buy the whole unit. Not super expensive and save a bunch of grief and be safer. Just sayin'.

I have 235/75/15s' on there now and they're "big enough" (especially with the 3.07's) but I have found lots of (lightly used) 16" tires. Like ALOT of them, but no 16" wheels with a 5 x 4.5" pattern. The 235's have plenty of meat on them and measure out at just under 30". Other 235's are in the 28" range. I suppose my original question would be, would 16" wheels be just a skosh taller overall with 235's or 30's I still have the 4.10 D30 waiting in the wings, when I get the rear 4.10 I'll get a little more serious I'm on a super tight budget (AKA "according to my wife"), and since the Jeep isn't my DD I'm just pokin' along on it

Yep, a friend of mine just bought some 255/70/16's and I told him they were basically the same size as 31x10.5/15's...he said he had never heard of any measurement other than the metric..."theres no such thing as 31x10.5's" . So Frank the Dog is right...not everyone lives and breathes vehicles. They both measure out around 30.5" height wise.