ParadiseMJ

Grooved side on the grooved pulleys, smooth side on the smooth pulleys.

Man, I'm right there with you. All that crammed into 5x7 looks goofy.

Yeah, if you already have the front parts, you're doing good. If you have 4.10:s and 35's is marginally OK. It'll work but 35's on 4:10's is about like 31's on 3.07's ...A little sluggish. It'll work though. So now, all you'd need to do is pull the 20, weld on some perches, extend the brake lines, and possibly get a longer drive shaft or a longer slip yoke. A longer slip yoke you can get a GM slip yoke that measures about 1.5" longer than the stock yoke. I think hornbrod has a link to that. IIRC I saw him pot it some years ago. Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Once you go over 2.5"-3" in front, you'll need: An adjustable track bar (preferably with a double shear bracket) $250-$300 Adjustable control arms - at 4" you can get away with just lowers. At 5-6" you'll need both upper and lower $300+ Extended sway bar links - either fixed ($75) or discos $150 At 5+ SOA anything under 32's will look silly. So tires $600-$800 The reason for swapping axles is usually to re-gear since 33" tires with a D35 and 3.55 gears is sketchy, Regearing your present set-up is usually more work and/or more money than just swapping in axles with the proper gearing. You might be able to find built axles but they're not cheap So, to do a proper SOA with proper tires, proper gears is possibly from 2K to 4K. If you just weld on some perches and jack it up over the axle without addressing the front axles and it's geometry, you'll be sorely disappointed. Just sayin"

So for the first time since I put everything back together, which included the tranny, torque converter, fliuds in both pumpkins, brake fluid flush & filI, new battery, tires, and complete flush, purge, flush and fill of the P/S fluid. etc. AND driving it for two+ weeks around 800 miles I noticed a medium sized P/S fluid leak on my driveway. Also, the belt was squealing and it had fluid on it too. Here's the question: if there's too much P/S fluid in the reservoir, is it possible for the "screw on" lid to come un-done...or did I just F up and leave the fluid reservoir lid completely off. The reason I ask is, of course, when I saw the leak I popped the hood to investigate and the lid was just laying there, reservoir wide open...add to that, the 800 miles I drove was during one of the biggest rain storms we've had all year...13 inches in a week. Should I just assume that a bunch of water got in to the P/S system? Should I just re-flush it or did I likely do any damage. No steering issues...yet. TIA

...and they're not expensive. I bought some at ACE hardware in various sizes. NAPA has them too...and of course the dealer.

Yep, got it. Good eye.

The vents are routed by the rubber tubes to a T to one hose. Then they continue on to a short metal tube that run up the firewall, and then connects to another rubber tube that connects to your charcoal canister. The vacuum from the intake manifold sucks the fumes back through the intake tp burn off. If you feel like replacing them, they're $25 a pop at the dealer. The plastic parts get old and fall apart after awhile...the nipples break off.

I've re-used some on body panels. I guess it depends on what kind of shape their in.

Look thru the holes in the frame in the rear corner. Look harder for the ones up in/behind the wheel. There are 8 total and they are not in a straight line. The bed won't lift up until at least 6 bolts are out...but there are 8. Some will just be a bolt head, no stud, hard to see.

Are there actually six wheels or just a wider axle? I don't see a pic with 6 wheels. Just curious.

Having done this for the first time on an old Chevy truck I thought the bolts came in from the top. When I got my MJ the bed was not bolted on. It was set on there and strapped down for the trip...it also had holes drilled in the bed (which I later found out that the PO had installed a carpet kit) When I started asking about bolts for the bed all I got was blank stares...and the sound of crickets. It wasn't until I looked at a real FSM that I saw how it was installed. Start by removing the tail lights. You're going to want to lift it off and set it on the ground and the MJ tail lights being expensive, or unobtainium, you don't want to damage them. Just take them off, set them in a safe place. Remove the ground wire from the driver's side tail light bucket (and don't forget to reattach it when you're done) There are 8 "fasteners". 4 bolts and 4 studs with nuts. Starting at just behind the cab...on either side, one up in the corner, one in front of the wheel, one behind the wheel, one at the back corner. So four on each side. I don't remember which are studs and which are bolts. Look through the holes in the frame. Like said above, remove the fuel tank. The strap bolts are usually a bear to get off and you'll likely break them. So figure out how to get replacements, whether they're just J bolts at the hardware store (cheap) or OEM strap bolts from the dealer (not cheap). Remove the fuel filler hose and vent hose, Remove any wiring attached to the bed. Take this opportunity to replace the filler hose and vent hose. Then just take the bolts/nuts off (I replaced mine with SS bolts/nuts, pricey, but they won't rust) and get some help to lift the bed up and either set it upright or have a sawhorse setup with cross pieces in advance to set it down on. It's made of steel, so it's NOT light. Good luck...installation is the reverse of removal.

4 bolts on the torque converter. If you have a problem with the flexplate turning while tightening, take out the starter, jam a 3"x 3.5" (or so) block of wood in the hole to lessen the possibility of breaking a tooth.

Disconnect the hose and the electrical connector and go for a drive...report back :-)

Great. I struggled like crazy with it, for sure. When it finally slid on I heard angels singing on high...had a cigar and a cocktail and smiled like the Cheshire Cat for the rest of the weekend. Weather.com said it's 16 F there. It's REALLY cold here too...50 F :yes:

I know this sounds crazy, but I had to install, remove and in install my transmission 3 times before I got it right. The torque converter has to seat properly or it will never come together or work properly. The nose of the torque converter needs to be recessed about 1.5" from the edge of the bell housing, use a straight edge across the bell housing to check it., Once it is seated you should not be able to put your finger behind the body of the torque converter. This is probably the most important part of the install. If you pull it on with bolts, the flex plate will bend, the torque converter will score the spline gears and your whole install will be ruined, If it were me, I'd pull the tranny back and recheck the torque converter. The tranny SHOULD just slide on if it's all correct, should not need to force it or pull it in with longer bolts, and nothing should bottom out.

Is this a manual to AW4 swap or just an R&R? I swapped from a manual to an AW4 and I had to pop out the pilot bushing/bearing out of the crank before I stabbed the AW4. I understand the frustration. Is the starter out? Is the torque converter absolutely properly seated? Whatever you do don't pull it on with the bolts or crank it into place. You could/will damage the tranny/flexplate etc. The ratchet strap idea might help. I did mine on a gravel driveway. Difficult, but I refused to give up. Eventually it just slid onto the locating pins, like butter.

Renix coolant temperature devices: Sender On the rear driver side of the head, one wire, sends signal to gauge on dash. That's all it does. Sensor On the lower engine block (driver side) sends info to ECU for air/fuel mix. That's all it does. Switch On the stock radiator and most aftermarket rads. Sends power to e-fan relay. That's all it does http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm

The x's don't mean anything. They're just hatch marks to "hold" on to the fluid to make it easier to read.

Yep, then you'll also have a chance to clean it up. Crack the pan at the lowest corner to allow it to dribble out into a catch pan. You could even re-use the fluid. I usually pour it through a paint strainer...kind of like a big coffee filter. Open the pan a little more as it drains, If you have a big enough catch pan, then take the pan all the way off and let it drain completely. The filter holds about 8 oz.

The wipers could be the bushings...and I put in a new motor last years and replaced the bushings then. My (88 also) problem, however, was that the circuit breaker was loose in it's slot. A bumpy road or two and the damn thing wiggled out and fell on the floor. I tried to tape it in there but didn't really hold too well. To remedy this I just put a drop/glob of solder on each blade and sanded it down just enough for it to be tight. Problem solved. FWIW I used to have a 5 speed in mine. It definitely leaked a little fluid and ate up the slot for the INST lights. I rerouted the circuit to another empty slot and cleaned up the area so it didn't eat anything else. It's good now. When I get around to deleting the C101 connector I'll probably swap in a new(er) clean fuse box. The flashers (hazards) on mine work, but only if I hold in the button. Your problem sounds like it's back to the fuse box. You may have luck taking apart the whole steering/switch set-up at a junkyard. Any XJ up to 90 will be identical to an 88. A new stalk/switch may just do the trick for you. The horn wiring is weird. Advise to get the guts off of a steering wheel at the junkers and looking at how the wires go when removing it. You need the little cup, the flat disc with holes in it. It's the crap right behind the cover that you need, pull what you can, pay attention to how it comes apart.

OP...did you check the oil level?

If it didn't come with paperwork (e.g.registration etc.) the VIN number will tell you everything. Google VIN decoder.

So true !! If it's not in the computer it doesn't exist. I had to go to NAPA and look and compare. I did not record the specific part #. Take current stud and a caliper with you and ask the guy/gal to go through the actual BOOK with you. (HINT: look for the old guy). I found 2 studs, one 1/2" longer and one 3/8" longer, with the right size and length (and diameter) of shoulder. There wasn't anything we could find that was Jeep or Dana specific and actually fit like I wanted it. I went with 1/2" longer because I barely had 3/8" sticking out with new wheels on it.

How do you have wiring for two pumps? :hmm: I do only because I installed the late model washer tank with two pumps inside the fender well and added the extra wiring for the 2nd pump. I'd have to agree with hornbrod here, there is probably a fault with the stalk switch. Everything else is pretty simple. Jumping the two wires in lieu of the pump being in is not something I'd be comfortable with. Seems like you're just grounding it out...but electrics are not my strong point. I don't know what makes me so special. :???: I have one pump but two plugs (one plug is dead) and the brown two prong plug for the bottle level. My fuse box has a spot for RR WASHER, but only one brass thingy in it, so a fuse not accepted there. Mine is a Renix, y'know so the bottle and pumps etc. is right there in the engine compartment, No fender fishing.