ParadiseMJ

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The extra hole in the throttle body is just a keeper, to hole the vac line, there's no extra option.

Personally I would not get a Mr. Gasket cap, (and just as a point of information, that's not a thermostatic cap, it's just a cheap thermometer) or a Stant Lev-R-Action cap. Too much work gone into gadgets and not the pressure equalizing property of the valve. I would also steer away from a fail-safe t-stat. If you have a proper cap...and buy a new one as a matter of maintenance, every 2 yrs or so, keep your cooling system in good shape and refresh your coolant/water mix every two years or so...you should not have problems. If I still had a closed system I'd use a late 80's-early 90's Volvo tank and cap, from Volvo...not ebay. More expensive, but worth it in the long run.

I've always thought this was normal, since both of my Jeeps have done it. When I'm going downhill or decelerating, stopping (in the XJ) the gauge goes up and does the opposite when accelerating or going uphill turning left. The MJ does the exact opposite. However they're accurate when I'm just cruising along on a semi-flat road at a steady speed. By the way, my Nissan Sentra commuter does basically the same thing only not as pronounced.

The first 18" would work, but how are you going to make the bend in the back of the cab. It's not just bent, it's formed to fit the cab, like a compound miter. I think you might have better luck using the headliner from another small truck.

The article is really interesting. Looks like the best bang for the buck is a cat back But in regard to your OP...depending on where you are in the valley, there is an AEM spacer for $20 on Chico CL. I have heard they whistle, but since I don't have one I can't say.There was an ebay ad running for a year or so with a Renix era TBS...but his site got shut down...by ebay. He was claiming 10-15% gain. I've yet to see a Renix TBS since.

I'll have to stick my head under there and check the brown wire. I'm getting a bit more comfortable with wiring after making my own headlight harness (which is awesome, even with my stock lights).

^^^^ Agreed...he's sitting on it!

I've never liked the tube bumpers either, but if you like them...I see them all day on CL or ebay and certainly nowhere near that $500+ price tag. That's ridiculous. I usually see them for around $100. If you like it and you don't want to search all over...$140 seems OK...however personally I'd keep looking (then again, I'm a cheap bastard)..

So on my rig...the Renix...could I expect to see the sensing wire on the big chrome starter relay that has all the fusible links etc.?

Yup...that was my mistake...it's on the driver's side.

Yes, that's the bitsch of it. The battery voltage is fine under the hood...just not at the gauge. Can anyone tell me where the gauge picks up it's info...is there a specific place where the voltage (for the gauge) reading can be going south?

I got the exact cover that Shelby is talking about the "DashMat" brand. Fit perfectly, had it for about 4 yrs. Two complaints though...the velcro mounting tabs are weak...not the velcro itself, but the stickum on the dash and the mat don't stick, to either surface. I just bought my own velcro and fixed it right without any problems on the dash itself (like leaving goo on the dash). The other problem is it makes it a PITA to get into the glove box...but after getting a full console for the MJ I don't even use the glovebox, except for extra bulbs, fuses and some tools.

So I've sorted out the voltage drop with my lights, installing a headlight harness and a new switch and have nice bright lights (stock) with zero v drop. However, now, when I turn on my blower for heat, the volt meter drops like a rock to <9 v. Can anyone tell me why...and how to fix? The blower works as it should on all speeds without any (except this issue) problems.

If the engine cranks...it is not the NSS. Re-check your wiring, cables, connections. Then check for fuel & spark.

Fuel Pump Ballast Resistor - Little white ceramic thingy on passenger side inner fender with two orange wires. If it's not connected, connect it...if it's connected, disconnect it and connect the two wires together. See if that works.

I have done it the other way around...putting MJ shackles on the XJ. After I put new leafs and lift shackles on the XJ it was slightly too tall. They fit fine, and did not really make much difference, articulation wise. It's really only about a half inch difference over stock at the end of the day. The shackles will not affect spring wrap, the SOA might, especially with softer springs.

I ran my XJ without the spring for 7-8 years with no overheating problems, If you're having overheating issues you could easily go to the hardware store and find an appropriate sized stainless steel spring. Be it a door spring, a gate spring a thing-a-ling spring, look around, you'll find it. Even a dealer may have a NOS hose with the spring. I have a spring in the MJ that I got from a member here (thanks Cracker) because I was having non- related overheating problems and was up to trying everything...turned out it was the radiator. I feel pretty confident that the MJ would be O.K running without it...but I'm happy it's there to keep that issue eliminated. Keep looking.

I have an 88 Pioneer, came with full gauge cluster, bench seats. But you want gauges, and to KEEP the enormous gas gauge...?? Anyhoo, the easiest way to do this is to buy the two (oil pressure, temp senders) and swap in a gauge cluster, with a tach (thus eliminating the ginormous mutant gas gauge. The tach is much more important than the gas gauge in that you only need to glance at the gas gauge every 10-15 minutes, you'll be getting much better information from the tach. Pasting a bunch of aftermarket gauges in your cab will, in my opinion, will look stupid, out of place and frankly like a hack job. So, if it were me it'd be off to the junkyard to upgrade the funky (IMHO) giant gas gauge, no tach, idiot light cluster to a full gauge cluster. It'll cost you less than ONE aftermarket gauge and conker...no, it does not work like that, when it reaches a certain point the switch/sender activates the dummy light...it's either on or off.

I have Rocky Road Shackles on my MJ, they are beefy and greasable. They are 3" longer than stock shackles, so they lift the rear 1.5". Your 2" add a leaf will likely end up settling a bit, So you could end up with 3.5 at first, and when all is said and done. you'll be sitting right about where you want. I'd expect that .5" will be negligible, over the length of the truck. Personally I like the factory rake but everybody's different.

Yep, Permatex. I don't remember if it has the little red straw to spray into cracks, but that would certainly help with overspray and get the stuff into the seam (did I mention it's some nasty s***?). Anyhoo, spray it all along the seam and let it do it's work

I had the same problem. Worked it with a mallet, a small pry bar, etc. I used some "gasket remover". Sprayed it along the seam all the way around, went in the house for lunch, came out 45 minutes later and the pan had fallen off. Worked great but the stuff itself is nasty, stinky chemical. Wear gloves and some eye protection. It takes a lot of work out of cleaning the oil pan and old gasket material too.

Just about every parts store I've been to, asks me "lights or gauges" when I ask for the two SENDERS. Emphasize SENDERS. If they don't know the difference between a sender and a sensor, go to another parts store. Remember the sender for the temp gauge is a one wire connector at the drivers side rear of head (so no Teflon tape or thread sealer)...the oil pressure sender mounts per usual for a 94...just has different guts.

Other areas for vacuum leak on that black line is under the battery tray. Acid corrosion etc. I prefer replacing the entire line instead of patching it up. If the line is old, chances are there are other potential leaks down the line. The bulk vacuum line is cheap.

My 88 MJ and 90 XJ have the same cable, except the XJ has a plastic clip to the cluster and the MJ has a screw on. I thought that was just a year thing. But the cable is the same length and the T/C end is the same. No cruise on the MJ Yes cruise on the XJ