ParadiseMJ

You can indeed just use a 91+ t-stat housing to install a sensor BUT finding a switch that will both fit AND work as a switch is problematic. I first just went and got a sensor but the connector was wrong (and even if you spliced the wires...it's a sensor, not a switch) so I explored using a sender and just splicing the wires (same deal) but I was told that neither the sender or the sensor would work because of neither one was actually a switch. In a 91+ (HO) the sensor and switch are integrated but since the wiring goes to the ECU to tell the fan to activate and the Renix ECU has no such function. The 96+ sensor in the t-stat is also integrated for the gauge, ECU and fan. The Renix switch is just wired into the relay, it does not go to the ECU. There was some information that a GM (Corvette specifically) had a similar working switch but the temp it activated the relay at was somewhere around 190 on the gauge...so in actuality about 150 at the switch. I don't have any real data on that.

Sorry, I did not see the switch in the hose in the first picture. I was just looking at the funky wiring. If the switch is wired in through the relay, it should work. But with the birds nest of wiring splices and whatnot* there I doubt it. The switch should activate at a temperature adjusted at the gauge of 218-220 and go back off at 215-217 roughly. I say adjusted because the temp coming out of the bottom hose will be actually lower than the indicated temp on the gauge at the back of the head. That switch and the set-up with the hose should not affect the way the Jeep runs as all it does is turn off/on the fan. It has no connection to the ECU.. When you trun on the A/C on the Renix models the fan should run when the compressor runs (cycles). That, and the noise the compressor makes is why it's noisier under the hood. *I've chastised my son before for constantly using the term whatnot, but here it sure seems to apply.

I also have a stock box available. If you just want to use it to pass. I have a CARB approved intake I got years ago and had to show the smog guy the numbers to pass. The one I got is not available anymore. If you do not have the "thermostatic air filter" hose off the manifold, and the smog guy is a stickler, you'll fail on that too. The hose is about $3.00, but if you've modified the manifold at all they'll nick you. Any hoo, if you want a stock box, I'll give you one of mine and send you the vac line set-up instructions...you pay shipping. It's even got a new filter in it. PM me if interested.

The radiator is a 91+ radiator. A 90 does not have a cap. The 90 also has a bung between the tranny lines. That is indeed some sketchy wiring. My thought is that the PO replaced the radiator, in an effort to make it an open system. Then used a regular old sensor to wire it in. Which won't work, because: There are 3 heat "sensing" devices in a Renix Jeep. The one in the radiator is a switch. It's ONLY to send a message to the aux fan relay to turn on/off the fan...nothing more. The one in the block, below the manifold, is a sensor. It sends info to the ECU to adjust the fuel/air mixture when the engine is cold/hot. The one at the rear of the head is a sender. All it does is run the gauge/light on the dash...nothing more. None of the sensors are interchangeble as they all use different systems to activate/indicate information. The HO models (91-95) used the sender in the back of the head AND the one in the t-stat housing and did not have the one in the radiator. So when you (or the PO) put in a later model radiator without a bung for the stock switch you lose the automatic temp switch function altogether. The later models...after 95/96 intwegrated the switch/sensor/sender into one unit on the t-stat housingYou can't buy a switch that'll work since a.) the relay seems to be gone and b.) it's a switch...not a sensor and c.) it's FUBAR. So, all that being said...whaddya do? Personally (actually this IS what I did) I'd go to the junkyard and find a Renix Jeep, pull the relay off the fender with wiring attached and splice it in to what you have there from the fender to the plug for the switch. Then I'd wire in a manual switch to the dash. Why keep the plug? Because fast-forward 4 years later (or in your case maybe sooner) I replaced the radiator with one that DID have a bung for the switch. The plug in the Jeep was still there, so I also pulled a switch out of an 89 which works perfectly now, plus the switch ALSO works on the dash. You really do need the relay too because when the fan starts up it pulls quite a bit of juice, the relay protects the switch and the fan. Good luck

I have a D44, not Metric Ton, with overload...AND a full length add-a-leaf. I don't mean to sound condescending but if you can't tell if you have an add-a-leaf or stock control arms you may want to think twice about doing an SOA by yourself. Spend some time looking at the under pinnings of an SOA and pricing out parts. With stock springs you'll end up with 5.5" to 6" of lift Doing an SOA right involves relocating spring perches, extended brake lines, new front lift coils, dealing with pinion angles, adjustable track-bar, adjustable control arms and quite a bit of expense (especially if you have a shop doing it).

I have one...it's the football shaped one. It is missing one of the mounting tabs. You can have it if you pay shipping...BUT...they are seriously available in abundance at any junkyard. The best part is that you don't even need a Jeep one. You can also make one with a piece of ABS pipe, some pipe caps and a couple of brass (or even plastic) nipples. Either of those routes would be cheaper than the shipping from CA to OH. There is really no magic in there. It's just a hollow space with a check valve somewhere either in line or in the can itself...cut yours open and check it out. It's a half hour project.

I only have one...I spent 4 years looking for a decent one with 4.0 and 4WD in a 150 mile radius. The funny thing is that you cannot drive into a parking lot here without seeing at least one XJ. They're EVERYWHERE. I went to the gas station last week and out of 6 vehicles there were 3 XJ's, my MJ and the rest were some other irrelevant "cars". The XJ guys all came over to look at my truck. There are several 2WD Comanches around but 4WD MJ's are "rare" for sure in my neck of the woods. Oddly, I only paid $400 for the one I found in a barn 40 miles out of town.

That would surprise me since the SWB has 8...well, 6 bolts...2 studs/nuts

Ask Paradise XJ about that....... If you put an HO AW4 tranny in a Renix truck...that was previously a manual (and therefore had no TCU)...you need to use a Renix TCU...AND the engine side wiring harness helps too. Cross wiring the HO to a Renix harness...is a B---ch. It took me literally 15 minutes to pull a good Renix wiring harness that would work with my 94 AW4 from the junkyard and another 15 to plug it all in to my MJ. I A$$umed that the HO TCU should go along with the HO tranny...Realizing I needed a Renix TCU took me...uh...a LOT longer to figure out, as well as losing quite a bit of hair. If I recall I spent 2 months trying to figure out why it wouldn't shift right. It was because I had the HO TCU...which if you compare the wiring diagram coming out of each respective TCU are different pin outs. I finally figured it out when I got hold of both wiring diagrams at the same time. I was able to go back to the junkyard and nab the TCU from the same XJ I had gotten the harness from. Thing drives and shifts like butter now. That, too. If you're using a 91+ tranny, you need a 91+ t-case. You could keep the t-case, but you'd need to swap the tranny output to match the t-case spline count...alot more trouble than it's worth. You could get a 91+ t-case in a swap for a nice VCR. No, but the tCU does. I never had to change out the ECU. Renix to HO...I couldn't tell you about a 97+ or any namby-pamby short cut shifter set-up...I did it the extra hard way. :rotfl2: ...Thank for the referral Cruiser...LOL...OL... :thumbsup:

I went to take a look at my installation. I believe I did have them mashed down a bit too much. So I did what you said, including the double nut. The top mount I'm talking about is that the top of the link is not a stud, it's like a BPE, and it uses a bolt going through the U bracket. The mounting hole in the U bracket is drilled to the outside (or inside) depending on how you look at it. Anyhoo, thanks for the tip.

I've been plagued by a clunk or pop or rattle when I turn, moving slow. It had seemed more like a pop, but it would clunk and rattle in a parking lot or going out of a driveway onto the road. So, I looked at the sway bar and was missing all but one of the end link bushings, the bolts were very loose in the absence of the "rubbers". The rubbers had actually been poly (Energy Susp.) bushings. These were only two years old (about 10K miles) and they had literally fallen apart and out. Is this common? I replaced them with rubber link bushings and the clunk, rattle, pop is gone. I'm just surprised that the red poly bushings weathered so poorly, I hope the rubber lasts and wears a little longer. What set-ups do others have? I have extended links with the offset mounting hole at the top.

Thanks all, Actually when I started it up this morning, the oil pressure was at, or even over what it's been for the last few months. :dunno: So far the pressure seems about right. 15-20 at hot idle, 40-60 at 2K RPM's. :thumbsup:

So, long story short. I "MIS-GRABBED" the 5 qt oil jug and it was too late to return it since I opened it and pored some in. I put 5/30 in instead of 10/30. My pressure reads a little lower. I WAS using Rotella 15/30. Should I dump the new 5/30 or run it. How much thinner is 5/30 than 10/30 which is what I was going to use.

UPS and USPS usually "insures" parcels with $100 coverage automatically. I shipped a framed $300 collectors photo (that buyer paid a bit extra for insurance) to Canada, it arrived smashed & destroyed. The guy filed a claim with UPS and got all his money back. He took the picture out and put it in another frame. Ask UPS Anyhoo, those are NOT new. If you file a claim with ebay, you'll either get a refund, if he's done this repeatedly the guy could be banned (suspended) from ebay, and if you paid with PayPal you're miles ahead. Then you can source the repalcement pintles and essentially get workable injectors for free.

Why don't you use the wiper/blinker stalk for the wipers?

X2 on the resistor. Only because years ago I did some cooling system work which involved pushing & pulling on the hose(s), especially on the driver's side of the engine bay. I had leaned my arms against the resistor and pushed one of the wires off. After trying all kinds of troubleshooting I had it TOWED to the shop. The guy called me in 5 minutes and said it was fixed. He said I owed him a 12 pack.

That's a good tip, (the crow bar) it'd save a lot of work taking the spring out.

If you can't fit a pipe wrench in there, a large channel lock will do it too.

Do you have an EGR or is it blocked off. Some guys eliminate the EGR altogether, especially if it has an aftermarket header. Can't do it in CA, mostly because of the rumored commie pinko sympathizers. In Kentucky, if you don't have emissions testing, it could likely be gone.

I have black rubber mats from Pep Boys with Jeep logo. $24

I'll try to get a picture of my EGR lines. I have my air box out so it should give you a clear shot of the set-up.

One hose comes off the harness and goes to the EGR. From the EGR, or the servo next to it, then off to the solenoid. The firing order is correct EXCEPT it looks like 4 is where 1 should be. Use the 1 printed on the cap as the starting point. If you used the 1 in the manual, it's likely off by one (5-3-6-2-4-1), which would cause either a no start or a very rough running engine. ...and just to belabor the point the REAL firing order is written right, it's just the starting point is off in the diagram...so 1-5-3-6-2-4 is correct, considering that you start at the right spot.

You might want to specify Viton or Nitrile (for "substances") o-rings as opposed to just regular old rubber (used for water etc.).

OK, I think the one I told you was the MAP line is incorrect. I just saw the white tip so that is your CCV line. Goes from the grommet on the rear of the valve cover to another nipple on the intake manifold. The large line on the driver fender come from the airbox, uner the tube, to the hard plastic line. then the hard line goes under the washer fluid tank, takes a turn along the firewall behine the engine to the charcoal cannoster. Fumes get sucked up from your fuel tank come through the cannister, to the air box, into the intake to be burned up. The other fat line (from the front of the airbox) is set up correctly, it creates a flow from the valve cover to the intake manifold via the small metered line in the BACK of the valve cover. Any of that make sense. EDIT: Cruiser, I didn't read your post, it popped up between computer glitches

Well, you're almost there. Start at the front of the fuel rail with the short vac line. One end goes on the fuel pressure regulator, the other goes to the front nipple on the intake manifold. In one of these pictures you're holding the bigger vac hose with the u-turn in it. The straight end goes into the hard plastic tube on the drivers fender, the other end goes UNDER the intake tube and attaches to the air box. On the plastic vac coupler, one tube goes to the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve, one goes to the BACK of the air box, one goes to the EGR solenoid on the fender.. .. the lat picture is the MAP line. It goes from the MAP sensor on the firewall to the throttle body. There are two holes in the rubber grommet on the TB, one goes all the way thru, the other is just a plug, or keeper.