ParadiseMJ

My father had 210K on the 90 XJ, he bought new, with no major engine work (never had the head off, never had the bottom end open except to change the RMS and oil pump), I put another 58K on it, then I gave it to my son. He's got 282K on it now, drives it every day. On another vein: I sold my 1969 Mercedes 280SE with 330K on it for the same price I paid for it 15 years prior.

I work at a Juvenile Hall. A few years ago if someone locked themselves out of their car we'd go get Billy D. That kid could break into anything. They don't let us do that anymore. :D

Easy enough to find out...look under the dash. The TCU is on the pass. side, right under the glove box. Reach in there grab the wiring, pull it out, check the fuse. If the fuse is blown, replace it and drive without shifting it manually. If there is no TCU make sure you get a Renix TCU. Even if you get a 91+ AW4...trust me!! Right Pete?!

Nice, I printed this out today at work, on the county's dime...all 30+ pages, so I'll add it to my EZ access Renix Bible. Thanks.

...and if you are just replacing the o-rings, be sure to save the little plastic spacer when you pull the line. It comes apart and goes together like so: O-ring, Spacer, O-ring. If you don't have the spacer, it will NOT seal.

None. No XJ hitch is going to fit an MJ. The frame rails in the rear are 40"+ on the MJ. The XJ is about 34-36" (not sure). Your best bet is to either find one on a junkyard MJ (if they exist) or have one made for you.

When you remove the radiator, there are two little rubber pads that bolt to the top crossmember/support. Save those, they may or MAY NOT be included with the new radiator

I did not weld mine. I drilled holes and bolted. I've welded other things, at best a rank amateur with a borrowed welder, but I'm good at bolting. I had seen that write-up (or one like it) but as luck would have it I found the 2 door XJ seats in good shape at the JY. Kind of a rare find though.

MJ and XJ or ZJ floor brackets are not created equal. The MJ has a unique floor topography so just taking out either XJ or ZJ seats and bolting them in to the MJ will require some work. You'll need to remove the MJ floor brackets (drill or grind off) and KEEP them to bolt to the ZJ seats. I have XJ 2-door buckets, that fold forward, but i had to swap floor brackets and use a couple pieces of flat stock bolted to the bottom of the seat runners. Remember that the ZJ seats will not fold forward and will make getting behind your seats a pain in the arse.

Never used it.

Here's what I tell my boys: Women will come and go in your life. Don't wrap everything up in the "flavor of the month". When you find someone WORTH fighting for you won't be put off by a brother, sister, mother OR EVEN a father. That is IF she's worth it...take a look at her mother...that's what she'll look like in 20 years. :eek: P.S. Most of the time all you need to worry about the father/mother. Tell your friend to bugger off. :banana:

Your friend is jealous AND probably feels like you used your friendship with HIM to get into his sister's pants. Who knows, he may have a thing for his own sister...stranger things have happened. If she's under 18, he may be protective of ANY guy.

The suspension has a load rating of a half ton...not the tie downs. The tie downs are not rated like that, necessarily. But then you're not going to hang 500 lbs off one of your tie down rings, nor will you be towing 500 lbs with the tie down rings (you're not planning on that are you?) and they are not suitable as a recovery point either (someone could get hurt). The rings are there to hold something in a static position, like a tarp or some camping gear. For tying, strapping or chaining down something like a quad or a motorcycle, especially if it's not hanging off the end of the truck, they should be sufficient. I have used them to rachet strap a refrigerator, a boat, and a motorcycle (not all at the same time) and have never had an inkling that it was not sufficient. An example: one 16 penny VCS nail has a shear rating of 600 lbs...but you can pull it out of a 2x4 with minimal effort (viz arm strength, about 25 ft lbs.).

The sensor is on the INSIDE of the airbox. It's just the nipples sticking out. (Nice sig line there)

The hose (tubing, duct, whatever) is in fact needed in most counties/areas of California. I removed mine when I first got the XJ, it passed smog. when I gave it to my son, the smog tech failed it because it was "an integral part of the Thermostatic Air Cleaner". He charged him $3.00 for the hose and installation. On my MJ I have and aftermarket intake...no hose. The intake is a CARB 50 state approved intake. Has a sticker with a CARB (California Air Resources Board) number and when the guy looked it up...he had to pass me. It is definitely not needed for any kind of performance or even emissions control...doesn't do squat except open the little servo at the front of the airbox to restrict cool (open) air into the box while the engine is warming up...when the engine warms up...the servo opens and lets the outside air in...which is also the purpose of the little round quarter size temp sensor on the back of a stock Renix airbox. The vac lines leading to and away from that need to be installed (and are included in the replacement vacuum harness). In CA you can't mess with the emissons at all, legally, unless it's CARB approved. Even my 5K watt generator and my leaf blower have emissions standards. Some other smog ridden states may require stock emissions as well. However, if you live in Texas, Middle Tennessee, or West Virginia...or yes, even Arizona...you're off the hook.

You CAN patch it...at leastfor a few days depending on where the leak is. I did this and ran my radiator for about six months, before it started leaking again on my Ford Ranger. I've done alot of fiberglass work on my boats and a "plastic" bumper skin. Drain enough coolant to keep it below the crack/hole etc. dry it out Reeeeal good (like with a hair dryer, clean the whole area with Acetone and get yourself some fiberglass fabric and a samll can of resin with the hardener. Rough sand the area atround the hole/crack. Open the crack/hole a little to allow the fibergalss resin to penetrate with a small file/knife about 1/32" to 1/16" wide. Cut some of the fiberglass fabric into little tiny shreds and mix it with a samll amount of resin. Then dab/jam some resin (with the little shreds) with a q-tip into the hole/crack. Let it set up and dry. BE PATIENT...give it a day. Re-sand the whole area around the hole/crack. Then cut a small patch of glass fabric...about an inch all around the hole/crack and with a new batch of resin, lay the patch of fabric in to resin, pull it out, carefully and lay it over the crack/hole. Work the air out of the glass patch/resin with either your finger in a rubber glove until there are NO air bubbles. Let it dry HARD...maybe another day. Sand it if you like and paint it. Filler' up and go.

If they are big bolts and they are vertical to the engine block.....you are removing head bolts. ...and even if they are head bolts...unless it's Bolt# 11 there shouldn't be any coolant coming out. Pictures??

I think you have bigger issues than a faulty t-stat...unless it's stuck closed. If it were stuck open it would take a long time to heat up...even to normal operating temps. If, indeed, it's stuck closed a thermostat might be at fault. Since that's the cheapest and easiest part of the cooling system to fix, I'd go for it. Be sure to get a quality 195 degree t-stat from either the dealer or NAPA. Cheap-o Auto Zone or O'Reilly's t-stats are crap) Check the pressure bottle and cap for cracks. The thing shouldn't ever get to the red when you just "go out driving". Does it do it under all conditions? Things to check: operation of fan clutch operation of aux. electric fan condition and level of coolant condition of oil (for coolant contamintion) Check those...report back.

My truck STILL has 3.07's with an AW4 and 235's. It had 31's and it was a total turd. 3.07's are weak enough and the change in tires made a fairly big difference. It's not "peppy", but in OD at 70 mph it runs at 2100 RPM's. When I switch the OD off (or in 3rd) it runs at 2300-2400. I drive it for utility and trips to the woods, not much else. My plan is to swap out axles to at least 3.73's but preferably 4.10's so I can go back to 31's. Riding at 70 mph with 3.55's with 33's would likely be the same or "doggier". I wouldn't daily drive it with that ratio and those tires...my own opinion. Just sayin'.

OK, so it's really early on a Saturday morning...my head's a little fuzzy. There still seems to be confusion as to what the 2 shifters do and what things do under there. The COLUMN is the steering wheel "shaft" a.k.a. "steering column". On column shift models, a cable attached to the shifter (P,R,N,D,1-2) controls the tranny, and only the tranny. On floor shift models, the cable is just shorter, otherwise the same. The shifter (for the TC) is ALWAYS on the floor and uses a very simple linkage system (which is adjustable). The TC shifter controls the gears & chain in the TC. Nothing else. The doo-dad on the axle uses vacuum to engage (or more correctly) lock two pieces of the axle together with a splined sleeve. Locking the sleeve over to keep the two pieces of the axle together "all the time". Thus the term "lock" the CAD (Central Axle Disconnect). Not to be confused with a "locker" No one has mentioned the possibility of the vacuum lines being disconnected or compromised, the vacuum switch on the TC, or the big rubber vacuum plug on the axle which is actually how the system is designed to work. So instead of trying to do the modification, why don't you fix the original system. It's really pretty simple. I think I'll go back to bed.

Does it not say anything on the sidewall?

When I was a kid, my dad told me that his legs were the perfect length...long enough to reach the ground.

Sorry, but like I said...in different terms...didn't mean to sound like an a$$. My skill level isn't high, it's acceptable for what I need to do...that's about it. And I only got where I'm at by over-reaching my previous experience from working on my Chevy truck back in the 70's. Also, as opposed to what you are wisely doing, when I started working on the Jeep(s) I didn't go to any forums to ask questions. I just doofus-ed around for the first year or so of fixing things on my XJ, then I graduated to MJ's out of necessity. I've learned volumes from the guys on here (and other Jeep forums) that are either gear heads or actual professionals (I'm neither) or have a boat load of experience from doing what they love. So, Jeep on.

^^^This...and the "seal" of the line consists of 2 o-rings and a spacer sandwiched between them. So when reassembling it, you'd slide an o-ring on the male end...then the spacer...then the other o-ring. Anything less and it will NOT seal...and likely fall out. "Safety wiring" it on there is not really a fix. Now, if you've lost the spacer (don't ask) you'll either have to buy the whole connector (the plastic part, 2 o-rings, spacer) or go to the junk yard and swipe one off an existing tranny as the spacer itself is almost (if not comepletely) impossible to find alone. The o-rings you can buy a the hardware store or auto parts store (Nitrile/Buna-N/Viton) in the correct size and thickness.

Well, ya learn something new everyday. I looked all over for a switch that would do just that. So if it works...that would be the way to go...so to the PO get yourself a 91+ t-stat. It'll fit in the same space, same gasket, same bolts...it'll just have a bung in it for the switch. ...and to danbyrambler...I'm saving that p/n for future reference. Thanks for the info.