Mr.Oz

humm, I would really rather get the 3.4 and everything for FI and do that. I guess find a running parts car for cheep. I do like the 3.8 idea, especially if we can supercharge it or turbo, but both of those come on at higher rps correct? JeepcoMJ, thanks for posting all that, it does help and is good info.

I like the "Billy D" method, Ha! Ha! Ha!.. Anyway, while I was at the drivers window playing with the wire coat hanger, I saw a small hole, (rust hole) where the tranny tunnel and floor meet on the drivers side. Crawled under and saw that its was almost a direct shot to the lock lever. After a few attempts with everything from a wood dowel to a small fishing pole, a 3 ft section of 1/2 copper tubing did the trick. That boy better make two extra keys especially since we need to patch that hole now!

Thanks for the input JeepcoMJ, that's what I was looking for. That being said, I need to look over your thread again. See how much wiring you needed to do and what tranny/xfr case your running now. We would love to toss in a 3.4 with the FI. I thought folks down here would be tossing those out and swapping in V8 but they think they gold.

I did and found his thread but did not really any pics of the motor mounts or how he routed the exhaust. I did PM him twice, just seeing if anyone else followed his lead.

Ok, son's MJ has the Chebby 2.8 v6 with the AX5 in it. We have been trying to find a camaro or firebird 3.4 v6 to swap in, 2.8 is smoking bad. Last week, we were offered a Buick 3.8 v6 with a T5 and a 4bbl intake for free. Catch is we need to get it out of a MG, engine swap that went bad, and the engine will need a total rebuild, if it can be. The engine has been sitting with water in the cylinders for a few years. Since the Buick 3.8 v6 is a different beast from the chebby 3.8 v6, I think this would work. The Buick is 90* engine but uses the 60* family (2.8, 3.1, 3.4) bellhousing bolt pattern and unlike those stupid chebby engines, has the dizzy up front. What I am asking is if anyone has done this swap, are they still on here, and can I get pics of the engine mounts, exhaust manifolds/routing. I know the AX5 may not last behind the 3.8 so I would also like to know what manual tranny may work for the engine and still use the jeeps transfer case. If we find a 3.4 v6, we may still slap that in and use the Buick v6 for the 79 280zx engine swap. thoughts and or pics welcome.

well, we could bust out the passengers window and just swap in the 99 passengers door we have, I guess that is an option :laughin:

Son locked his keys in the MJ. No sliding rear window, door windows are rolled all the way up, what are the options? I remember on a 85 Nissan 4x4 I had, locked the keys in, I was always able to get a wire coat hanger and fish between the door and window to grab the lock rod and pull forward or up, would that be an option here? thanks

finely got the brake lights working, switch rotated 180, and a small piece of plastic smashed in a vise and wedged between switch and rod, actually my son figured it out, its his Jeep anyway, he was real happy for that simple repair. I like it because he is getting a taste for more repair/mods/upgrades. Once we figure out the steering colum or replace it, tracing down the heating, cooling, and blower controls are next. Then the 99 doors and or find a 3.4 camaro v6.

got the gauge cluster in, speedo did not work and tac is not working. Changed the oil sending unit and its working. Changed the speedo with the old one from the dummy light cluster, works. Batt gauge flickers but that me be due to a funky connector on the alt. Still looking at the temp sending unit. I'll get pics up this afternoon for the choices of where to put it.

jimoshel, I went back to the JY to look at the donor Cherokee and, both, what I would say are the coolant sensors (front left, drivers side of the engine) were gone so I was not able to figure which is the correct temp sensor. No other jeeps with the 2.8 in the yard.

Jeep Driver, cleaned the prop valve and do have a small leak, as far as the lines, that are all the extended braded ones, well at least from the calipers and drums to the hard line. Cruiser54, we get power because when we swivel the switch up, the brake lights do come on. Also when we push the peddle, I see the switch move, maybe not enough. Son tried to put a shim in, I think maybe he made it too thick, he said it didn't fit. Eagle, did not know there was a special procedure, where can I find that, son has not picked up a service manual yet. We got some for s-10s because of the engine, but those came with the jeep.

Worked on son's MJ (Donkey) Saturday. Replaced rear drum shoes, (he found out just how fun drum shoes can be) drivers front caliper and rotor, caliper was non-functional. We also did the booster upgrade since we had it (picked it up same time we got the full gauge cluster and the 99 Cherokee doors) and needed to bleed the system anyway. So, I think I took too much off the booster brake rod, (brake lights never com on) so the fix is put part of a cotter pin between the switch and rod? Also, we bleed the system, even to the rears, old brown fluid gave way to nice clean new fluid. Truck stops much better now, not as much effort, but now, brakes are "spongy", air in the system? more bleeding needed? thanks for thoughts, next project, find a 3.4 V6 to replace the 2.8L or, do I sell him my 4.7 stroker set up with the T176 4 speed and NP 208 xfr case? (built it to go into my 83 SJ Cherokee)

Doing this tomorrow, so I can't use the valve we got with the booster and MC? see pics Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found the valve has a line for the rear and one for the front going to an abs brake system. Re-plumb this new valve or just remove it and run lines to the MJ valve.

Hey gents, has anyone done the dummy light to full gauge cluster swap on the above mentioned MJ? Son has this truck, couple weeks back we picked up a full gauge set from a 86 fully loaded cherokee in a JY. We got the correct oil pressure sending unit and maybe the right temp unit. I am trying to find out, if we have the right temp sensor and where it goes in the block. I have seen two spots on the front drivers side of the engine that could be spots for the sensor. Just want to make sure, thanks guys.

Son and I are looking into this also. Right now we have the weber 32/36 carb installed, way better then the crappy stock one. Now that stupid mech fuel pump is giving us issues. I think we are gonna go electric and since we will be swapping in a 3.4, you got to do that anyway, no place for the mech. fuel pump.