ParadiseMJ

If you lay on your back under the "hump" just behind the engine and stick your hand up inside the front part of the hump, you should feel it. It's not in the firewall, it's at the front of the trans tunnel, about 8-10" up in there. I'd send a picture but there's really no way to get a decent shot of it when everything is installed. I had to "feel" it in. It's oval shaped and from the inside you may be able to see it. I searched for it for the better part of an afternoon...until it became logical and evident why it was put there...again, it's in the tunnel, not on the firewall.

Fire it up, maybe it'll fly out. :thumbsup:

The "nose" of the torque converter needs to be about 1.5" inside the bell housing. Use a straight edge to span the bell housing and see where the nose sits. Seating the TC is muuuch easier with the tranny out. When I swapped the AW4 into my MJ I had to pullit back out 3 times (yes, I'm a dork) to make sure the TC was seated, then the old crank bolts were too long, then I found the inspection plate was bent. It looks like your insp. plate is also bent up. Maybe need to pull the tranny again. Sad to say.

There is gauge fuse under the dash Adding a cluster/gauge/dash ground per Cruiser's tips is always a good idea

I got almost all mine at the junkyard, I spun/broke most of the bolts. The rest I got here: http://www.4wheelparts.com/Fender-Flares/Fender-Flare-Mounting-Bracket-Kit.aspx?t_c=80&t_s=409&t_pt=3164&t_pn=CRO55003232K

Passed with the aftermarket intake, an explanation to the smog man on HOW the "Thermostatic Air Filter" works, very good emissions numbers and my plain old annoying-ness. I think they just wanted to get rid of me.

Well, all the sniffer tests came out fine, great actually. Gas cap, fine. EGR, working good. I previously had a CARB approved intake on it. I took it off to smog it since it isn't stock. I failed the visual check because the chintzy little $2.00 heat tube and passive tin collector (Renix) on the manifold for the vacuum actuated "Thermostatic Air Filter" had also been removed. So it failed just on that alone. It has passed every other time just as it is. Different tech, by the book. They didn't charge me. I called the shop and gave them the number on the aftermarket intake tube...they OK'd the tube (deleting the stock intake air box) and told me to put it on and bring it back. Even with the stock box out and the TAF and the vac line to the airbox removed.

Hey guys, Going to get the ol' boy smogged and looking for suggestions...last minute type. I have a relatively new cat, new plugs, rotor, cap etc. I fixed all my vac lines, checked the EGR function, new cap, new gas. Anything I'm leaving out?

I just listen to the voices in my head. ' Seriously though, I have Blaupunkt speakers in the door and the rear panels from a 69 Mercedes, mini-tweeters under the dash and a cheap-o Jensen head. I'm usually too busy listening to clunks, whirrs, and ticks to worry about music...no left ear.

90 is CAD. Check the vacuum lines to the CAD mechanism. The big rubber plug at the axle AND the plug to the vacuum switch on the t-case. Either may be disconnected. If it is CAD and not the t-case it's an easy fix. Even if it is the t-case and not the CAD it's still a rather simple fix...not rocket science. P.S. If you find that the either of the vacuum plugs is disconnected, don't fix it in the guys driveway...he'll jack up the price. Wait til you get it home.

^^^ Agreed...that's what I did the first time. I never even considered that when I just popped the pump back on that I'd have a problem with indexing.

Here's a pic of the oil pan...via Cruiser54 For reference: Here's a pic of the innards of the oil pump...like Jeep Driver said...anything mechanical can fail due to wear, loss of tolerances and chipped pieces. http://s168.photobucket.com/user/chasdwitt/media/oilpump3_zps1b6ce0a9.jpg.html'>Image Not Found Image Not Found ...AND just because I haven't read it here yet...why do you believe your oil pump has failed in the first place??

128.37 cm either way

Edit: [Oops, too late...anyhoo...may be useful...thanks Keyav8r.] The first time I touched an oil pump I had NO idea that I might have a problem with the distributor. I only pulled the oil pump out so I could get the pan off. I did it blind, I never got the pan completely off until I pulled the pump by reaching in with a wrench and dropping the pump into the pan. Like I said, it's a learning experience if you haven't done it before. I guess I got lucky by not screwing up the dizzy, I didn't know. I just pulled the pump blind, and reinstalled it blind ( that was back when I could actually bend my wrists). I didn't TURN anything. Installing a new pump usually (the ones I've done) calls for priming and/or packing the pump "works" with Vaseline or light grease. After it's installed, and submerged in the sump, you CAN prime it with a drill/driver, At that point you'll have to re-index the dizzy anyway. If someone else can offer a write-up on how to do it right, you'll be worlds ahead of where I was when I did my first one.

You need to drop the oil pan, Other than removing the oil pan, it's 3 bolts. Replacing your rear main seal while you're there is recommended (by me at least) since it's a $15 part, The labor (if you were to pay a shop to do it) is generally around $5-600 so it's well worth it to replace the seal. Replace the pump and the seal and a new oil pan gasket. The hardest part is dropping the oil pan...it's a greasy messy job and you'll spend most of the day under the Jeep. If you have never been under there, maybe longer. First time I did it, it took me 6 hours one day and 2 the next. I have done 3...the last one took me 3 hours...it's a learning experience. The pump is turned by a gear on the camshaft, the camshaft is turned by the timing chain. Also the distributor is turned by a gear on the end of the distributor shaft that slips into a slot in the oil pump.

Would the measurment be different R-L ? Maybe in Canada. :dunno: :thumbsup:

Naw man, ba10 = Herpes. I had a 2.5 and ax4 for a while, and was contemplating swapping in the ax5 if I could find one. What was funny though was when I looked online comparing the two, the 5spd got worse mpg lol! So I got curious and started looking up why. Apparently tbi 2.5 doesn't have enough umph to fill out OD? But perhaps mpfi makes up for that. As for the analogy...you can get rid of a BA/10

All my tranny lines on my XJ are rubber after the first 12" coming from the tranny. I used brass flare fittings and hose barbs. I liked it so much I did it to the MJ when I swapped trannys. The fittings on the radiator can be adapted to take the 3/8 hose with regular old hose clamps. SS lines are really overkill since the pressure in the tranny lines is minimal. P.S. this set-up has not leaked or seeped since I installed it .

So here's the only picture I have of my rack set-up. It's a regular gutter mount rack with 1" steel tubing. The rear is on rollers which make it an easy one man job. I don't have a camper (I don't want one) and the height of the rear allows for opening the tailgate. I made some " gutters" on the rear with some angle to mount the rack to. It's solid. Allows use of the whole bed. Works for me. The front rack is mounted more forward on the cab to reduce the angle. The further forward I carry it the flatter the angle.

The pulley pulls off and presses on. Different pumps (even XJ, MJ pumps) have different pulleys...they're the same diameter wise but where they sit on the shaft tends to differ. When I changed pumps the old pump pulley was about 1/4" past flush on the shaft. When I mounted the old pulley on the new pump the pulley sat flush to the end of the shaft (and wouldn't go on any further). So just be aware that you could install it and still be out of line with the other pulleys.

I've missed that Avatar too!

They can only go on one way

I made one similar with the idea of hauling 2 canoes AND all the camping gear for 4 for 2 weeks. It worked really well. Towed easily. While my Jeep was bumpety-bumpin' along the road I'd look in my rear view and the trailer was riding along smooth as silk. The tongue was quite long as are the ones above due to the length of the canoes, but the "bed" of the trailer which was lo-profile was still 4' x 8' and could hold alot of stuff, including firewood.

This is an option I'd considered, but then I wondered about opening the gate. Extending the shaft that goes in to the receiver is also an option. At present, I have a rack set-up that uses a boat loader on the back of the bed, and a regular bar rack on the cab. My canoe is a 16.5' We-no-nah and only weighs 60 lbs. I can put on and take off by myself without even breaking a sweat (I'm 61) It sits at about a 20 degree angle and I can open the tailgate and my cross bed box and get to all the gear in the bed without any problem. I'll post up a picture when I can find it.

Ewwww - greasy ??? Won't crank (starter not turning over the engine)?...or won't start (fire up)?