ParadiseMJ

Nice. My MJ foot brake is also toast...it worked fine when I got the truck and I loved having it down there instead of taking up space in the console. But alas the ratchet part failed on me and it looks like a lot more work fixing the foot pedal than popping in a lever (since I'm re-doing the carpet anyway.

Check to see if the calipers were re-installed on the correct side(s). If the bleeder is at the bottom of the caliper, they're on backwards. If they're on backwards they could have thought they bled out all the air...but all the air can't be bled out with the bleeder on the bottom of the caliper. So they could have done a perfunctory job on the bleeding, called it good, and returned it to you. I would be taking it back to the shop and telling them they screwed it up. Then insist they fix it without charging you anything unless they can PROVE it was a coincidental failure.

...as well as bleeding air out of the clutch line. My BA would get really cantankerous with the fluid down more than about 1/8" in the clutch master, and I could always get some air out of the line.

My son's 90 XJ came up as a "gross polluter" on the sniffer test due to a faulty O2 sensor. When it comes up as a gross polluter the smog police send you to a Gold Shield smog station and they look at everything with a much more critical eye. Anything not stock is flagged. They insisted that the hose needed to be there for the "electrostatically controlled intake". The smog guy charged him $3.00 for the hose and put it in for free (it takes 5 seconds to put it in). So he did the rest of the inspection/testing and passed it. Then he told him he could take the hose out whenever he wanted. Said it's not something you'd fail a regular test for. Just the Gross Polluter. In other words the hose doesn't actually MATTER...it's stock though and they have to see it in there...and of course...it's California.

I got a 3rd brake light from an XJ. Pulled it, cut a hole in the cab, installed it, ran a wire to the brake light. Not a cargo light but it LOOKS stock.

Check e bay and expect some sticker shock. They are not cheap, used. They can be re-furbed easily. Mine were oxidized all to hell and I re-furbed them with some sand paper and Testors model paint.

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I have the load leveler shocks. They gave me a net lift of maybe 1/2" but more importantly when I drop a load of firewood in the back it used to sag the rear end...it doesn't do that anymore. Better cornering and general feel of the rear.

...good tip...and if the oil is fuel fouled, what's up? Compression numbers are good at last check at or close to 135 across the board.

:yes: I smelt two newer cars...people do look at you a little funny when you're sniffin' a dipstick...same smell... :thumbsup: There's a sig line for you !

The vac line with the CCV is not old. It's been 2-3 yrs. since I replaced all the emissions/engine/HVAC vac lines. The line and orifice is clean/clear. I'll get someone with a good nose and go from there. I'm going home today to smell all the other cars dipsticks...see what I see (smell).

Well, just like the title says. I haven't really stuck my nose up to my dipstick before but I did yesterday and I get a pretty good whiff of *what smells like* fuel. Although I don't fully get why my oil would smell like gas. My oil level hasn't gone up or down. My injectors are fairly new (refurb'd) Ford injectors I got off ebay. Mileage seems normal, oil isn't thinned out. Just seems to smell like gas. My tailpipe does NOT smell like gas, I don't have much if any blow-by on my filter or anywhere else. *Let me qualify my sniffer*. I quit smoking several years ago and since then my sense of smell is all messed up. My wife can be burning lavender scented candles...and it will smell like diesel smoke to me. My dog can be dirty and soaking wet and will smell fine...except to everyone else. Skunks still smell like skunks though.

I picked a couple of those up at the junkyard for my XJ (it came stock with the circle type) just before handing the XJ over to my son. He and his wife liked the fabric ones better so he put them in. They matched the gray "tweed" seats just like in the above picture. I was looking for a back seat with headrests but our previously well stocked junkyard only had ONE Jeep in it the last time I went.

These are the XJ 2 door seats out of a 94 or 95. Had to do some modification to the mounts, but they work great. Here you can see the first buckets I put in there compared to the ones I have now. The one on the left has rocker rails and ended up being too tall...not to mention they were from a 4 door XJ, so they did not fold forward. The one on the right is the present seat.

This one came with it, I don't know if it's stock or not. I live in N. California and have little to no rust anywhere on my truck..except on this bumper. This bumper would not do well where salted roads and rust are a problem. It was rusty on the inside, I cleaned it up, rust converter and bedliner on the inside. It looks to be OK.

They make a kit for that. Doctors have made zillions putting "lift kits" on these units, some better than others. Anyhoo, I doubt that 15 lbs. is going to make a difference. Even a stock MJ has a slight forward rake (that I personally like), at least most of the ones I've seen.

Where is it leaking from? Is it a manual or automatic?

The I.D. is 5/16" I don't know about the O.D. - which is why I suggested taking the o-ring with you to the store. Don 't forget to save the spacer...I do not know of a replacement source other than buying the whole connector.

Hopefully the fuel pressure regulator is OK, not ruptured inside. If so, this is what you need: http://www.jcwhitney.com/crown-oe-replacement-fueloil-cooler-line-repair-kit/p3049536.jcwx The part pictured includes the hardware and packaging...most of the white part is packaging. You can make your own with a little legwork for considerably cheaper. The seal consists of a plastic clip, 2 O-rings and a spacer. If you disconnect the clip (squeeze the ears together and pull (you may have to remove the small bolt on the vacuum harness clip to pull the fuel line all the way out. Either on the line or IN the quik-disco, there is the 2 O-rings and spacer. SAVE the spacer, take the O-rings to the parts store or hardware store and get 2 new O-rings. Viton or Buna-N works for fuel. About 15 cents a pop. The plastic clips are available at the HELP section of the parts store. $3.99 for 6. If you're careful you can probably re-use the old clips. 5/16" Ford or Chrysler fuel line connectors. So, that's $3.99 and $1 for O-rings (you bought 6, just in case) = $4.99, You now have enough for the other fuel connector too!. Re-assemble by sliding an o-ring onto the fuel line, then the spacer, then the other o-ring. Then push it back into the FPR, until it clicks. Replace bolt on vac harness clip/tower.

The black line coming out of the firewall operates the blend doors. It needs to be attached to the vac (foot)ball reservoir. The pink line operates the heater control valve....EDIT the one in the OP is gone...so it's just sucking air. Cap the pink line. I have mine trimmed back and capped, I'm not re-installing the heater valve. Then just make sure there is vacuum TO and FROM the vac reservoir*, and the black line (from the firewall) is hooked to the reservoir, *To test the vacuum to and from the ball , disconnect the fat vac line, put your finger over the end of the line. It should suck. Then re-connect the fat line to the ball, and put your finger over the small port, it should suck your finger. Then put it all back together.

Yes it's accurate...unless BOTH of them are off by the same amount as I used two meters to confirm the readings. I got basically the same response "on another forum" (to catch a reading AT the gauge). Along the same vein...WHERE does the gauge get the reading...in other words, from the alternator? at the battery? coil? start relay? Where does that gauge reading get it's info.?

88 MJ Pioneer, 4.0, AW4. Now that I've finally gotten my AW4 driveability issues under control I'm ready to tackle yet another gremlin. The MJ is running GREAT. I've put a good 1500 miles on it in the last month without a single hiccup (knocking wood). So, here's my problem. The gauge on my dash says I'm running at about 10 volts. As I drive from home to work, in the early AM (always dark) the gauge reads right off at 10 volts. If I use any of the accessories (extra lights, heater fan etc.) the needle goes down a couple volts. The closer I get to work, 22 miles, the gauge goes up a little. On my way home, without lights - maybe just radio or wipers, the gauge says about 12 volts. I have no power windows or locks. Sounds easy, right? When I put the meter to the battery, idling in the driveway, it says 13.5 or so. With engine off, says 12.5 or so. The battery is strong, lights are bright (for a Jeep) and everything runs as it should. I've done the instrument panel ground upgrade, I've done the sensor ground upgrade, I have a 2 ga. cable for an engine to firewall ground and an auxillary ground from battery to fender, the taillight bucket ground is clean and tight, the radio has an extra ground wire. Could this be as easy as the just the gauge going wonky or is there a deeper problem?? And IF it's just the gauge...how do I tell without tearing stuff apart.

Except for the steering gear. As far as I can tell, the OP doesn't know where his leak is yet. I thought he had nailed it down to a crack in the reservoir.

On the firewall there are two small hoses coming OUT of the firewall. One is pink(ish) the other is black. The black one is the small one on the vac ball. The pink one goes to the heater valve (if equipped). The fat black hose on the vac ball is the SOURCE vacuum. The small one is the HVAC/CAD line. A leak (crack/break/rub/disconnected line) will cause problem with the blend doors and possibly the cruise control. Replace....as opposed to repair these bulk type lines...they're dirt cheap.

Replacing the entire pump/reservoir is not difficult or expensive. If the hoses are OK replace the pump and the O-rings. Bleed & flush properly, brand new system.