ParadiseMJ

In August I'll be 21... ...for the 3rd time I was 40 when they stopped making MJ's.

Yes, I know them. They come in a spray can, at the hardware store.

Not my kids...or even grand kids, but great costumes. Image Not Found

Don't ask the time to fly by...it will. Then you'll be walking her down the aisle and asking yourself....when did she grow up??

This, I suppose. is a techie question...but not Jeep tech. On any other web site, forum, Word, Excel I can use the cut & paste function. Only on C.C. I can't paste any text, add pictures, do quotes or of that common WP stuff. Is there a way to enable/disable that?? Did I hit a wrong button??

This, I suppose. is a techie question...but not Jeep tech. On any other web site, forum, Word, Excel I can use the cut & paste function. Only on C.C. I can't paste any text, add pictures, do quotes or of that common WP stuff. Is there a way to enable/disable that?? Did I hit a wrong button??

Lube & leverage...as opposed to hammers. Try to take some pressure off the connection. When you get it off, put some grease on the disco stud

We finally broke $3 a gallon here. It's been tween $2.99 and $2.95 for about 2 wks. First time in 4-5 yrs. below $3...I can' even remember the last time I filled the tank for under $50

Ummmph!! Giants do it again!! That Bumgarner is incredible! But Davis on the Royals is scary too. Kudos to a couple of the young guys too, like Panik & Crawford. Bringin' trophy back to NorCal. I'm just happy it was never the Dodgers!!

GO GIANTS !!

Does it not shift running, off or neither. And I'd second the bleeding process...the master must be FULL. I had a small leak and the level in the master dropped about 1/2 "...leading to shifting problems. I'd turn it off, shift it in to 2nd and limp home. If the clutch isn't disengaging you CAN (or should be able to) shift even without a clutch to get it home with a little finesse.

I had a bizotch of a time getting my MJ to start after I replaced the engine harness. It turned out to be just ONE of the sensor grounds, the CPS ground, being detached (not securely attached). When I found it and attached it (soldered it) it fired right up, every time. So I then learned the importance of grounds. Cruiser spent some time and energy learning and putting the list together and nothing on it should be discounted. Unless you have a 91+.

Climb under the truck and push the speedo cable up towards the dash to give yourself some slack.

Or less weight. How much "gear" is back there If your springs are sagging that much, you need new leafs. Even stock leafs would be an improvement.

Paid $3.19 yesterday... It was right around $3.75 two months ago. I predict a refinery fire soon limiting the supply. Seems to always happen when prices start slipping. Oil companies need MORE profit...poor guys!!

Just for kicks, check the t-stat and see if it is stuck open when you remove it (if it's a fail safe stat). My XJ ran great in open loop. It was getting fed a bunch of fuel.

IS it running at 120F or are you thinking of controlling the max temperature by putting in a 120F t-stat?? If it's running at 120, replace your t-stat with a 195 stat. If you're thinking that a cooler t-stat will control upper temps...it won't.

It's Red. ...but seriously folks, Duplicolor has different vehicle maker paints...like Toyota Frost White, or Ford Ice Blue etc. You might get lucky going into a store that carries a large Duplicolor stock. Otherwise I'd take it to a paint/body shop and see if they can match the color and hook you up with a couple mixed cans of the right color, just a thought.

Did you put teflon tape or thread sealer on the sender when you screwed it in?

I've been offered 4K and $4,300 for my MJ (88 Pioneer, 4.0L, BA10, D44) with NO rust anywhere, I bought it for $400, delivered on a flat bed trailer, not running, the interior had bee removed and was in the bed (which was not bolted down) I put a CPS in it and it started right up. I've put 2K+ into it and ALOT of work, swearing, blood and sweat into it too (none of it rust related).

I had this problem intermittently...it was the gauge fuse socket...it had a bit of corrosion and got tweaked so the fuse was sometimes loose in the slot. I put a dab of solder on the fuse tabs to thicken them up...bingo, problem gone. 10A fuse upper right of the box.

I am also plagued with 3.07's. It is somewhat sluggish in OD (aka 5th) unless I'm going 70+ on the freeway/highway. When I had a 5 speed, 5th gear was pretty much useless (unless I was going 70+ on the freeway/highway). My own experience tells me that 3.07's just suck in general. You're not going to get alot of power, ever, in any gear over 3rd.

My MJ has a grapefruit. I have no cruise. My XJ has a football, it has cruise. The only "trick" to installing it is...the fat hose goes to the port that says "vac". The skinny hose in the other port on the grapefruit. On the football there is a set of ports on each end, the fat hose has a T in it that goes to either end. I had always thought the other end went to cruise...but not sure since others have said they have cruise and a grapefruit.

I stuck in a long add-a-leaf and shackles...which gave me a total of almost exactly 3" after about 3 months of settling. It's still right there at +3". The add-a-leaf siad it'd lift it 2"...which it did...for the 3 months. The shackles added 1.5", so the extra leaf only netted 1.5" (2-3 years now).

Your best bet is to mate the same era/years tranny with the same era/years t-case. Renix to Renix or HO to HO. A helluva lot easier. <90 = 21 spline >91 = 23 spline BA/10's did not come with the 23 spline because they were all phased out after 89, AFAIK. I have a 94 AW4 tranny in my 88, I got a 93 t-case and front shaft (because the AW4 is longer than the BA-10 it replaced) from a junkyard for $40...it all bolted right up.