ParadiseMJ

My condolences. I was the primary care giver for my parents as my siblings live a state away and I live right here in the same town. My Dad went first with Alzheimers & Parkinsons. My Mom went 2 yrs. later with cancer. My siblings barely participated. I did/do not hold any grudge against them. I feel like a better person for the experience. I'm still terrible expressing myself to people who lose a parent/spouse/friend etc. It's a highly personal thing.

I don't know about a 3" puck. I'd prefer having 3" lift springs...IF I was going with 3". You'd also have trouble finding shackles that'll lift the rear 3" to match. I'd stick with 2" if you just want a little lift, that will look good with 31's. That will keep your budget down (thus the term "budget lift".)

Exactly what I did. I also considered MAKING one with some 3/8" rod stock and a torch...Heat to red hot at bend spots...bend...really pretty easy. Then paint or dip. Seems it'd be better than a bungee cord

The bracket on the rear left hand side of the tranny is for the t-case linkage "bushing" mount. If it was a 2wd, that would not be there. Count the splines on the output.

See you on the other side. Thanks for everything :bowdown:

90 = Renix (I've had 2 of them) 91 = HO HO HO HO

And by the way...getting the wire on the bell housing to clip in there is a major PITA...I took it another route after scraping & cutting the crap out of my hand on a chunk of ???. Tight space, fat hand. Any tricks? I do not have any clip on the valve cover or engine side...just the bell housing side.

Weird smelling smoke from behind engine? Check the wires to/from CPS. I have fried mine before. Smelt like rubber/plastic (duh) :doh: It worked, but the insulation was almost completely gone.

You'd be better off just buying a new cylinder with it's own key. Not likely that you be able to match it to your ignition key (or even your door key)in any sort of cost effective way. Besides, any thief/scumbag that wants in there is just going to bust the thing up anyway. Unless you have a steel box you might as well just have a button latch on it...just sayin'

"Trouble Hill" is now my bi#ch!!

Well, as it happens, I've fallen in love again. I can't get enough, I can't eat, can't sleep, it's all I think about. My wife is jealous, I've neglected my job, shined on my family and generally become as irresponsible as a twitterpated teen-ager. Oh, wait, you're thinking it's a woman!?!. Nope. It's my truck. My now FIXED truck. I finally fixed my long suffering problems, simply by replacing the TCU and repairing some grounds. The actual fix took me a grand total of $25 and about 20 minutes after F&%#ing with it for MONTHS and spending a lot more than $25 stabbing new (and likely unnecessary) parts into it I have driven it about 600 miles in a little over a week, just for fun!!! Over the river and through the woods, down the valley, up the mountains, to the city, off road, in the snow, in the mud, on the freeway, country roads. All this without a single hiccup, unidentified clunk or slip. Shifts perfect, rides smooth...it's like a brand new truck. I'd like to thank all the guys who helped me with this and I'd like to thank myself for finally "getting" it and sticking with it. Thanks to: Hornbrod - Don, thanks for just sending me the AW4 manual, which in fact was what I needed all along Cruiser54- for unending smartness and familiarity with the entire system of this genre of transport. PM's and e-mails really helped. Oyaji - for bringing up the fact that my overheating had nothing to do with my cooling system. At first I was an unbeliever, but I now have a different outlook on troubleshooting. I'm not a total convert, but more than one way to "skin a cat" was never so true. ...and all the others who contributed to my seemingly un-ending issues.

Quote: Originally Posted by Tim_MN And, does the T-Case actually shift into and out of 4x4 with no hesitation ? Yep by hand and with the in cab shifter i can feel it go into every position no hesitation. With both drive shafts disconnected in the drive way i can put it into all positions. 4Lo both out puts spin at low rpm N works fine nothing spins 4Hi both spin high rpm 2Hi both spin high rpm It was working perfectly before I dropped the trans/TC to do my clutch. *************************************************************************************** I haven't seen a year here, not even a MODEL. XJ...MJ...ZJ...engine, t-case... (or even a Jeep) whether the front is a CAD axle, whether some vacuum lines were disconnected or removed etc. In fact I haven't seen much information about this vehicle except for the remark above, which reveals a lot to me. As Tim said in his next post on the NAXJA post, "pulling the tranny and case should not effect the internals", that is, UNLESS the mechanic made a mistake, which we're all susceptible to, even "ace" mechanics, what with being human and all. I would re-trace what I did. When I do some work on my truck, and it doesn't give me the right result, or it changes something I didn't want it to...I always consider the fact that it was my screw up. Start with the basics. 1. Is the shift lever really in the proper place? 2. Did I bump something? 3. Considering the year, the t-case, the tranny (none of which are revealed here) there may be some variables. 4. And finally...as said above, posting an empty post and then blaming everyone else for being dic#'$ also makes one think that maybe every little detail either was not covered or was summarily dismissed because of the OP's infallibility. Lighten up and realize that just maybe YOU screwed the thing up.

1. The torque converter is not bolted in, so when handling the tranny out of the vehicle...or when reinstalling it the tranny, after the torque converter is properly seated, the trans should stay level, or slightly tilted rearward. 2. When you're handling the tranny you you should remove the CPS and other sensitive sensors, As evidenced by the broken speed sensor (that I would replace at this point) things get bumped and busted. You can re-install them just before you lift it in to place. 3. When you are re-installing the torque converter, tilt the tranny up standing on it's rear end. I put it on a folded up towel to set it on to avoid any damage to the output shaft splines. Have a buddy hold it steady, Be sure the seal is installed, place the T/C on the shaft (some folks say to fill the T/C with fluid first. Then rotate the T/C until it clunks in, rotate it again until it clunks down a second time, and rotate it one more time until it clunks in for the third time. It is now seated. 4. Keep it level, on the jack, unless you have a "yoke" or something to hold it in place be sure not to tilt it forward. It may not slide all the way off, but unless it's properly seated it will not install properly. As far as the wear marks on the front splines, I did not see anything like that on my used tranny. It may be stock for that tranny, it may be normal wear (?), it may be because the torque converter was never seated properly in the first place when swapped in.

I just replaced mine with a stock one from the junk yard. I tried the crimp ons but they did not fit quite right. It was easier to just cut the ones off at the junkyard and solder it on to the wires. Holds better. JMO.

What's it worth? What ever you can get for it OR what ever you'll let it go for for OR whatever someone will pay for it. "What ever the market will bear" ?. The answer goes for pretty much anything.

I believe that the "to be done" list will likely solve your problem. Mostly the TPS, but all of those things are good. Follow Cruiser's TPS tips for ease of handling. I also did the "Sensor Ground Upgrade" in his list of things to do.

The fuel rail should not be hard to put back on. You may have to turn the injectors singly to line them up with the holes, but once they are all lined up you should just be able to push with just enough hand pressure for the O-rings to pop in "thump". Then it should just pivot down and the mounting holes should be all lined up. Then you can install the fuel lines with new O-rings (o-ring, spacer, o-ring). Which part did you have trouble with? Did you put the vac line back on the fuel pressure regulator? Both ends?

Maybe someone could ask them...

Funny...I look at my truck everytime to either see how it's sitting, if it's leaking, smoking or rolling away. Mostly in some sort of disbelief that I made it! On the other hand I never look back at my Nissan Sentra as I walk in to work!!

Just as an FYI...do the whole disassembly/cleaning on a big piece of carboard or on a cleared off work bench. The springs that hold in the two removable contacts tend to get lost, and they are a $#%&@ to find, or replace. I've done the cleaning/disassembly a few times, I got overconfident. Luckily for me I had 2 NSS's to work with...but somewhere on my gravel driveway is a tiny spring that I can't find. :doh:

I just pulled one of these off a Cherokee at the junkyard. Since it's been awhile...and I did not have all my tools...I knew just sticking a screwdriver under it and wanking on it wasn't going to work...so I used a blade ON the threads and slowly (not a lot of force) pried it far enough out to get my fingers behind it...then I just kind of finessed it off. Hard to explain, but you can't squeeze the threaded part, and you can't whack it from the other side. I'm sure a little PB on the flat part of the shaft might help. The one I removed was greasy as hell, so it made it a little easier.

It was AFTER I swapped the TCU. The tranny trouble was definitely about the tranny (just as you had suggested) because the truck was having so much difficulty getting around, especially up "horror hill". I took it up that hill yesterday and another shallower but longer grade and not even a hint of getting hot. Woohoo!! The TPS wiring from the TCU on the Renix than they are different on the HO TCU. When hornbrod sent me the TCU print-out the light went on for me. Duh!! Anyhoo, Thanks to all who chimed in and helped me on this over the last months. I have my truck back and it's purring like a kitten.

On the 91 TCU I had in there...the TPS was not showing up, as there seemed to be only one TPS wire originating at the TCU. The 88 TCU I snagged today shows 3 pins...TPS input, TPS output TPS ground...as the 88 TPS is adjustable and the HO TPS is NOT. The first thing I checked with the new TCU in was the TPS signal. Where there once was none, there was a nice strong signal (VDC) at the square connector with the key ON, like it's supposed to have. Oyaji I took it for a 40 mile round trip (up that problematic hill) and never went over 195.

FIXED!!! THE BEAST IS *&^#$%^@ FIXED :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: After my AW4 swap, I have been chasing my tail with this wire that wire, that harness, this harness, every possible configuration.wondering why I couldn't get a signal on my TPS, not shifting properly, no lock-up...no kickdown...no second gear, NO POWER!!! After I looked at the pin outs for the HO TCU and the Renix TCU it all became crystal clear to me. Even though the tranny is an HO era tranny, the harness, TPS, TV etc. etc. is all Renix. Today I went to the junkyard, got the Renix TCU out of the same Renix Jeep (XJ) that I got the harness from. Came home and in 10 minutes I had the "new" TCU in...and after taking a quick drive around town, ALL of the problems I had are GONE and the Jeep runs like it should. Time for Thanksgiving .

Thank you Don. Just looking at this I can tell it's different from the Renix. Which would explain why I'm not getting some readings right.