Dzimm

I like the idea of using the rivnuts but for those if us in the rust belt I would be weary about doing this. When those brackets rust out, you're gonna have rivnuts spinning in the rusted out Brackets and be a real pain to get out.

Factory cargo light switch with panel. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172937367050

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!!!!! It looks damn good on there though, good score! May I ask what you ended up paying for it? I think since it is already painted a light color, you should paint it tan and see if you like it, if not then go black. I personally think that since the lenses are smoked, it would look better tan.

I have flare brackets that I had to use nuts and bolts on. I see no reason you'd have issues. You can use large flat washers to help spread the load out over the plastic.

Well this confirms my major mistake of throwing away the small, in perfect condition, Briarwood trim piece for under the steering wheel I found in my MJ when I bought it.... I initially thought it was a piece to a crappy wood desk (found amongst other crappy wood desk pieces in the truck) and tossed it.. Later realizing it was a dash piece.. Wish I would have known..

This is going to be an awesome build and can't wait to see it unfold. I think your best bet would be to custom build something. Yes it is more work but it will be harder to make the Chinook shell work for what you want and will be harder to modify to meet your needs. You also have the opportunity to make the whole thing lighter. Some pvc board or even thin aluminum will be way lighter and easier to use than the fiberglass used on the old shell, and I'm sure given it's age, it has a lot of fiberglass in it. Design wise, something custom that matches the Comanche body lines would look absolutely awesome.

Should bolt right up no issue.

I ran with a cut down cherokee headliner for a while. It works across both sides and windshield but sits a couple inches lower than the MJ one. The only problem with it is that it doesn't cover the whole back of the cab, it just ends with about 3 inches of metal showing above the rear window.

Ive also been following his channel for a couple years and I doubt that's his day job. He doesn't post content often enough to be a job and doesn't have the views/subscribers to afford to live off YouTube yet. He's got to have a real day job doing something... Just don't know what...

Good job! Glad you got it fixed!

I'm not sure what you are talking about in your picture, the gold thing just inside the black area? The 4wd linkage is all on the drivers side so it won't be that. The only thing bolted to the passenger side of the tunnel is the passenger seat belt but I thought that was a bolt going into the tunnel, not a stud. Is there something bolted on from underneath? The only thing running through that area should be sensor wires for the transmission. Was there a stud in that location for bench seats? I can't think of anything that would bolt there.

Look into the O2 sensor wire as well as your CPS. Temperature can affect both of these sensors. I'd just replace the CPS to rule that one out. Those have been known to test fine but still be the problem.

Are we sure there wasn't a typo somewhere. I'm guessing there is a decimal point missing, like 287.1, which would make it draw just under 24 amps. Cannot see how LEDs could draw 200+ amps.

Agree with Jeep Driver, don't pull the head, if anything pull the trans and do the other plug as well. Even if you did pull the head, you would have an insane struggle to keep the head from sliding around the table while you try to get the plug out. As for it coming apart, yeah they do that. Keep going but use a larger punch to spread out the load (a 1" spade type chisel/punch works well) and don't hit quite so hard. It will come out. If you need to, use a flat punch on the rim of the plug but be extremely careful if you do this to not scratch the surface of the block.

What else besides leafs and coils? Required: - Shocks - Extended sway bar links (preferred) or sway bar drop brackets Highly Recommended: - Move brake line brackets or get extended brake lines - Adjustable track bar to correct side to side axle movement - Adjustable or longer lower control arms. (The Grand Cherokee LCAs would be a great option at 3" of lift, someone will chime in with what years, I don't remember). Remember to readjust your bump stops if you add bigger tires.

I highly doubt they are the same. For the time it would take to make it work, your money and energy would be better spent finding a front set of doors with power options.

This is handy. Why does it only list Cherokees up to 98 and then 99 as it's own year? There wasn't a roofline change was there?

Retailer specific numbers probably. I was looking at 69 Charger body panels made by a company (can't remember the name off the top of my head). All 3 retailers that sold the panels had different part numbers but were made by the same manufacturer under one part number (making 4 part numbers for the same exact panel). I'm guessing Lund had different inserts for the mold to change the part number depending on who was selling it, or where it was being sold in the world.

Still doesn't work. Doesn't work on Tapatalk either. It does show a preview now but shows the error. I wonder if this has to do with Alexia adjusting permissions the other day. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

Doesn't work on Tapatalk either.

Shows I don't have permission to view

My memory was incorrect, my XJ Lund Moon Visor is part #19030. Sorry the picture is so far away, it's so glossy I had to use the lens of the light to focus the camera. Also attached is a picture of it sitting on my XJ to show its for sure an XJ one. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

Have you been regularly driving a different vehicle with the heat or ac on recently? Maybe you have gotten used to the higher air speed out of the vents of the other vehicle which now makes it seem like your air speed is lower in the MJ? Pull the blower motor out to check for rodent nests behind it. Also look under the dash on the passenger side and push up on the door to blow air on the passengers feet and see if you see anything. The motor itself may be dying as well but idk if there is a way to test that.

I can't comment on the sliders specificly but I bought the Mojave Prerunner bumper from them and it was of good quality.

The most important thing is to figure your gear ratios as mentioned, before moving forward any further. You also should consider running all terrain tires as aposed to mud terrains since this will not see offroad. This way you can get the look of an MT but get the on road performance of an AT. This also allows for some offroading if you ever end up doing it. (BFG KO2 ATs are very aggressive looking all terrains that I have decided on based on my research). The other question to ask (since you are looking for looks) do you want to trim the fenders or leave them untouched? If you don't want to cut, you can fit 33s in there on 4.5" of lift, but if you do end up offroading, you will bash your fenders up in no time unless you bumpstop it. I'm in this boat, I have a 4.5" lift on mine but don't want to trim. I've found 33x10.5 to be the biggest you can fit under there without cutting, but it needs bumpstopped accordingly and will probably rub at full lock. I want to run 32s but nobody makes good all terrain tires in 32x10.5r15. 32s don't really exist right now. Here is a couple pictures of my truck at 4.5" with 235/75r15 tires on stock wheels. I think I have decided on 31x10.5xr15 BFG KO2 ATs for now so I don't have to trim, it will look good, lose less power, and still perform without rubbing or hitting fenders. I base this decision on this being mostly a street driven truck that I want to be able to do some decent offroading with every once in a while.