cruiser54

19" rear and 18.25" front measured from axle hub center to fender flare lip.

I'll measure mine later and post back....

This^^

Still have the troublesome heater control valve installed? It's vacuum operated and prone to failure. Take it out. Plug the vacuum line, and splice the hoses together that were connected to it.

Got a top!!! Nice used assembly. High end fabric. all bolt in. No glue and crap. Have yet to drive it...

That's likely the culprit. Got a spare starter or a new or rebuilt one? If not, take yours apart and clean it out with brake cleaner. It comes apart easily. Fix your oil leak.

It's part of the dash.

VERY well done!!!

How much oil is coating that starter?

I would complete Tips 1,3,4, and 5 as a matter of course, eliminating potential problem areas.

I've always just gotten a connector of some sort and looped them until I could get it fixed. Simple to do.

You know what? That's probably all I needed to do.

Probably all made by WunHungLo and his comrades in a sweat shop.............

Pierce Manifolds in Gilroy, California. https://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/85.htm

Neither. Results are the same as long as there are holes drilled up in that area. JeepTech specified one way, but lots of folks have done it differently and the problem was fixed.

IN the exhaust manifold on a 1990. 91 and later in the downpipe.

Just eyeball it using the photos in the following link. Does it appear they have been cut? Should be obvious. http://cruiser54.com/?p=131

Probably not a bad idea. The learning curve on SUs is rather steep and not worth it. I learned how to adjust them in my early 20s from a seasoned old Brirish car mechanic and then had them on 3 or 4 different cars of my own.

Nice. If you aren't familiar with those carbs, it's a bear dealing with them, although they are super simple in reality. You have SUs or Strombergs?

And TCU! Squarish dome lamp lenses (not for your MJ but NLA), bolts and clips for fan shrouds., instrument cluster surround if it's a Laredo, Sentinel headlamp relay, all fuses and relays, throttle body (meanlemons needs them), seat belts?, visors, front fender liners, ... I could go on and on. I part Jeeps out..................

I've not ever had another vehicle with an in tank electric pump that used a ballast resistor. If you read the bulletin I posted closely, in the first sentence they state it's more prominent in some XJs than others. Likely it's the design of the fuel tank mounting? Skid plate? Some reason our vehicles transmit/amplify the noise? They used the resistor until they went to a returnless fuel delivery system. 96 or so? All mine still have the resistor installed. Bypassing it is a quick way of testing the resistor I guess. Anyways, it was for noise. We installed quite a few of those kits at the dealership in the early years.

1, 10, 11, 11, 15, 16, 19, 20, 24, 30, and 36.

So, they're 88 and 89, right? The CPS can be tested and is suspected. Refresh it's connector in the engine bay. That said, I would go to www.cruiser54.com and perform tips 1 through 5 on the 88. Tip 2 does not apply to the 89.

Just for fun, check your intake manifold fasteners to be sure they're snug and haven't loosened up.

Excellent advice. TPS flat connector needs close inspection.