cruiser54

So, not aluminum? 8" is a good width. I used a set of Wrangler "canyon" wheels.

I use NGK ZFR5N in all of them. Projected tip.

Not normally. Where did it disconnect at?

Taillamps and fuel pump share the same ground.... Here's something to look into. IMPROVING THE FUEL PUMP GROUND The fuel pump and fuel tank sending unit ground at a sheet metal screw up behind the spare tire on an XJ, and behind the driver’s taillamp on an MJ. Not only is a sheet metal screw a lousy way to ground things, this ground path is long and travels through some connectors that are prone to corrosion and moisture. Locate the black wire on the HARNESS side of the fuel pump/sender 3 wire connector. Remove a 6″ length of the split loom covering. Strip back about 1/2″ of insulation from the BLACK wire. Take your new ground wire, preferably at least 14 gauge and 12 to 18 inches long as needed, strip it about 3/4″, and wrap it around the exposed part of the harness plug wire.Solder the connection. Tape it up and reinstall the split loom covering. At the other end of your new ground wire, add a crimp on eyelet. Attach the eyelet under a bolt that goes directly into the chassis. Be sure to clean the attaching point til shiny and apply OxGard to the contact surfaces.

PM sent. I'll need 4 since I have 2 MJs.

Good job Bubba!! LOL. What drew you to the rack?

this makes you a rattle can pro:

Now we're talking. But NLA?

Idaho Department Of Transportation? Indiana? Illinois?

Very nice. Tell me more.

Have you ever visited my website? I would suggest completing Tips 1 through 5 before doing anything else.

EGR could be leaking internally allowing exhaust gasses to go into the intake manifold at idle.....

I felt sorry for the other one so I put it in the garage last night.

Prescott.

I'm tired of searching. What's the hot setup for LED compatible B pillar interior lamps?

Just returned from the store.

Also check to see if the tang on the pedal itself hasn't popped the weld.

Check this connector: I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else. Revised 1-31-2016

You can test for a clogged cat. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS VACUUM TEST FOR EXHAUST RESTRICTION OCTOBER 31, 2015 SALAD 1 COMMENT Your vacuum gauge should come with an instruction booklet outlining the procedure. Hook the gauge up to a vacuum source on the intake manifold. Start the engine and note the vacuum reading. Usually 17 to 21 inches of vacuum. Throttle the engine up to 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 20 seconds or so and the vacuum reading should stabilize to the same reading you got at idle. Let the throttle snap shut. The vacuum reading should shoot up about 5 inches of vacuum higher for a second and then come quickly down to the original reading. If the vacuum reading stays high and comes down slowly with jerky needle movements, you have an exhaust restriction.

Excellent plan.

Thank you!!!!! We have too little to work with at this point.

Go 30 by 9.50s.

Good suggestions here. Another one. Make sure the ground cable at the firewall has the paint removed from underneath it.